TV Cable Stuck

Joined
Nov 11, 2008
Hi Guys,
I just came back from a short drive with my car, MCSS 200-R4. Trans was shifting fine for the short part of the drive, semi hard shifts, just nice. Then started to feel like it would take too long to shift. Made it home, I wasn't too far from home luckily. Felt like it was stuck in 2nd.
Trans fluid is just past full as recommended here and red with no smell, good so far.
First thing I noticed that the TV cable was loose, slack of approx 3/8" that was hanging out with the engine shut off. Tried to pull on the cable and would not come out anymore nor would it go back in, just stuck, will not move.

What can you guys tell me?
It is a universal TV cable that you adj to length, seemed to work for about 2 years I've had it.
 
Thanks for the reply,
I was going to try to disconnect the tv cable from the case to see if the cable itself would move, if nothing there I was going to drop the pan next.
If this were to be "TV linkage in trans" issue, what can be done so this will not happen again?
Planning a trip in July with the car.

Thanks again
 
I'm using the same cable on my 34 . Sounds like the nut that is tightened up after you adjust the cable sheath to the length you want it is not tight enough . The two parts of the cable must not slip after you adjust it to length . If it does slip , it's all over unless you are lucky .
 
I might have mis-spoken (not the first time ) . Is your cable the adjustable sheath type or do you just have just the cable itself that you cut to length ? ? The cable itself could slip where it hooks up to the Carb / throttle body if the little brass thing with the screw ( can't think of the right term ) is not tight enough . Either way you need to be tight .
 
Stovebolt, you were right the first time. I do have the adjustable sleeve type with the brass nut.
The end that snaps into the carb bracket on my Holley is still snapped into proper position, no change there.
Also the end of the cable clip still snapped on the geometry corrector stud for the Holley is tight, just the cable is really slack in between these two points.
Plan on going out shortly to disconnect the cable from the trans at the case and see I can feel any tension on the linkage inside.
If that is stuck then I have to drop the pan to have a look see.
 
Worse case scenerio . You hear about toasted transmissions caused by mis-adjusted or loose cables .

The fail-safe check ball in the case is supposed to get you home with no damage if the cable slips . Just late , hard shifts .

ATSG reccomends leaving out that check ball on a rebuild . Go figure .

I think yours is ok . . . . . . :)
 
I disconnected the TV cable at the carb end and began to unbolt the cable from the trans case.
As I was unbolting it, I heard a snap which ended up being the TV cable that was hung up on something, hopefully it was the universal 2 pc. sheath cable. Nowhere on the sheathing shown any signs of kinking or melting, I just figure it's from the 2 pc. join/seem area.
Seems that there is spring tension inside the trans to that wire. So I don't think anything came apart insde the v.body or pan.
Had another GM TV cable (1 pc.) installed that in it's place. :):)

Next Issue-
With this cable in place, the inner cable is too long, (guess better than being too short).
Before I cut the GM crimped end and slide the adjustable brass end with a screw, any pointers before I cut?
Right now the TV cable is pulled back all the way in (towards the firewall) at the rear carb bracket. Start in that position?
This is the cable that has the D-button to press.

I know, lots of questions but just want to be sure and hopefully I dodged the bullit from pulling the trans.
 
Hopefully some of the other guys will chime in on setting the factory type cable . I used the pressure gauge to set mine ( one without the D-button ). I might be wrong but I'm thinking if the factory type is set with a fair amount of tension on the cable and you floor board the accelerator the cable will ratchet out to the correct setting ( T.V. plunger buried all the way to the bushing ) . I still believe the pressure gauge method is better . Let us know how you come out . :)
 
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