Turbo removal tricks!!

[trbolvr]

I'm trying to remove my turbo for the first time and seem to have
a problem getting it to come off. I have all the bolts and nuts removed, the oil drain thing seems to be stuck. It doesn't want to
let go from the housing. Not sure of how much pressure to use on the thing.... Thanks

 

[zam70]

Pull it up and forward-twist it a little to give you better access. The turbo drain will stretch some what. Then use applied violence.

 

[John Larkin]

If you have the bolts out of the drain's flange, then a thin screwdriver can break the seal there at the gasket. That's all that could be holding it on at this point. But it should be dangling before lifting the turbo off the header. You can buy a new gasket or make one out of thick header gasket material.

 

[trbolvr]

Thanks guys!

Thanks for the help guys, it was the oil drain flange holding it on.
Took a little screwdriver and popped it off and the turbo is in my hand...... Anything to watch when I put it back on or just reverse
the removal process???????

 

[TRYMY231S]

I just did this last week for the first time. Jut make sure you remember to put the header/turbo gasket on before bolting on the turbo (I knowit sounds stupid but if you're like me you'll forget in all the excitement). Also make sure to use RTV on both sides of the gaskets (esp. on the oil feed gasket). That was a cause of a nice oil leak on the old turbo. Good luck!

 

[tom h]

There is no header-to-turbo gasket on the stock setup. If the surfaces are still clean & flat it should seal fine without gaskets.

I had read that by installing a gasket there, tightening the bolts can slightly bend the sealing flanges, and then you can probably never go back to gasketless setup.

So if it was sealing OK without a gasket, don't put one on.

also would suggest reassembling all nuts & bolts with antiseize on the threads (eg, Permatex makes both a copper-based and nickel-based antiseize

 

[John Larkin]

Antiseize is also good to use for sealing the iron surfaces to one another such as exhaust elbow, turbine to center section, even the downpipe. One the turbo drain gasket, I like Indian Head glue; seals good and holds it in place well. Sticky though if you get it on you.

 

[QuickWE4]

I just learned an important lesson following my recent TA49 swap. I used the turbo oil drain gasket that came with the new turbo, and it leaked.

Ordered a pack of original GM oil drain gaskets from gmpartsdirect.com, and the leak stopped instantly.

Use an orig gm gasket or it'll most likely leak over time. No RTV should be necessary on this because of the machined surfaces, etc.

My copper header gasket was installed dry. No leaks.

Rich

 

[8UWITH6]

I have always used copper coat on the header/turbo joining surfaces. Seems to work just fine for me. HTH

 

[Turbo__Tim]

Copper coat here as well. Are you having the turbo re-built? If so you may need to 'clock' it when you go to put it on. this is needed to clear the actuator rod. Loosed the perimiter bolts, and spin it until it is right.

 

[Red Regal T]

RE-INSTALLING THE TURBO IS PRETTY SIMPLE. THE MOST DIFFICULT PART IS STARTING THE BOLTS ON THE OIL DRAIN LINE. TO MAKE IT EASY, BUY OR MAKE UP SOME STUDS INSTEAD OF USING THE BOLTS. MAKES IT A FAST JOB.