Turbo Oil Drain Gasket Question

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Mar 14, 2018
Please forgive my lack of automotive mechanic skills.

I am replacing the leaking turbo oil drain gasket. What is the best way to remove the old gasket material from the turbo flange without removing the turbo from the car. Space is very limited and seem to be quite a bit of material left on the flange.
 

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The right way to do it is remove the turbo so you have better access to the drain pipe. Stuff something in the drain pipe to keep debris from falling into the pipe while you are cleaning it. Scrapping it with a utility blade works good. The usual cause of the leak is the pipe flange is warped. They get warped from heat and over tightening. Just went though this with a customer's car. Had to remove the drain pipe and flatten the flange with a belt sander with a final lap with 180 grit wet dry paper on a granite surface.
 
Urg, Ok. Was hoping to avoid that. The bolts look pretty rusty. I guess I got to do what I got to do.
 
Pulled the turbo. Now I'm wondering if it was really leaking from the drain Flange. There is oil on the block but the drain flange looks pretty clean.
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I'll be honest with you here, it looks like the turbo itself might have leaking oil seals with the amount of soot and what-not coating the side of the compressor cover. You might want to check the turbo shaft for side to side play and in and out play. If it is excessive to the point the wheel is touching the wall of the compressor cover or turbine housing, it needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Here is what I would do. If the turbo is good, I would replace the stock oil drain tube with an OE replacement from Highway Stars. The stock 30+ year old oil drain tube gets brittle and can easily develop a hairline crack that will leak. Especially if the previous mechanic didn't use care when swapping the turbo. You will think it's the gasket, but it's actually the draintube. I always recommend changing it out when swapping turbo. Glue the oil drain gasket with rtv on both sides. Get a 3-bolt gasket from either RJC, or an SCE copper from any of the vendors. Glue either one with Ultra-Copper rtv. Replace the downpipe graphite doughnut gasket, no rtv on it though. After you have it all put back together,, clean the oil feed line fitting where it screws into the brass fitting on the turbo and put some pipe sealant on the threads. Crank it and check for leaks. After you drive it a few times, go back over all of the turbo bolts and retighten them if needed. They will loosen up. And no matter where the leak is coming from, the radiator fan and intercooler crank fan will blow the oil residue everywhere. One more thing, seeing that's an E compressor cover, and I didn't see it laying around, do you have a K&N breather for the passengers side valve cover, or was the breather hole just open? Definitely keep us posted on your progress. I think you did the right thing pulling the turbo, especially with that much oil residue. Makes clean up a breeze with it off.

-Patrick-
 
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Urg, always something. I just ordered a drain tube, 3 bolt gasket, and down pipe gasket. Another week of being down. I'll change the plugs and wires, pcv and clean up the engine while I'm waiting.
 
might need an O2 sensor too, judging by the exterior condition of that one.... looks like its been there for a while.
 
I put studs in the turbo for the drain. Its easier to locate the gasket and the drain flange on the studs and nut, than try to thread the bolts in that tight space.
 
I concur with what captrob said. Especially when you replace the drain tube. If no studs, have someone hold the turbo while you pull/attach the drain tube to the turbo, before you stab the turbo onto the header.
 
I concur with what captrob said. Especially when you replace the drain tube. If no studs, have someone hold the turbo while you pull/attach the drain tube to the turbo, before you stab the turbo onto the header.
That's what I do. Put at least one drain pipe bolt in while holding the turbo to align it. Once you have one bolt in the second one is easy. I never had to use a second person. The turbo isn't that heavy.
 
Thanks again,

Few more questions. Do I put ultra copper on both sides of the drain flange gasket and the three bolt gasket? Also, do I need to put anything on the threads of the new drain bolt where it threads into the block?
The shaft on the turbo is very tight, no play.
 

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Also. There looks like a ground wire not connected. Was wondering if it was like that for a reason and also there what looks like a sensor that it taped up and zip tied.
 

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Also. There looks like a ground wire not connected. Was wondering if it was like that for a reason and also there what looks like a sensor that it taped up and zip tied.
That ground cable is for the battery. It's connected to the block with the bottom bolt of your turbo "J" bracket. That taped up connector is for the oil pressure switch for your oil idiot light and fuel pump. It's not really necessary. A lot of people disconnect it when they put gauges in.
 
That ground wire is the main battery ground that bolts to ouside of the heat shield turbo bracket. It's the main engine ground wire that grounds the block to the battery and must be used. The turbo heat shield bracket, that looks like a question mark, has two holes with bolts that bolt to the passenger side of the block. The ground wire goes on the bottom bolt hole on the outside of the bracket. (Goes like this, bolt, ground wire, bracket , block) I put high temp ultra copper rtv on both sides of the gasket whenever I use it. Like Miie said, that ziptied wire harness connector, looks like the factory oil pressure dash light sending unit plug. If it's a round rubber plug, that's what it is. It's ok to leave it unhooked. It's sole purpose is to come on if oil pressure drops to extreme low pressure while running. I left mine unhooked when I did my gauges recently. Yes, you can put some pipe sealant paste on the threads of the new oil drain tube. And if the shaft has no play, both front to back and side to side, I would just clean the outside of it with some brake cleaner and simple green and run it. If you don't have the heat shield bracket, (question mark bracket, J bracket) I highly recommend getting one and get the bolts for it as well. It supports the weight of the turbo and keeps the header from cracking. But, pretty sure if your car had the turbo heat shield on it, you have the bracket and bolts.
Hope this helps.

-Patrick-
 
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The stuff I got says #81878 in it. Wonder if it's different
 

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What you have is the same, just different / newer packaging. You are good to go with it.
 
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