Tuning with a TT chip...that is the question!

[MyBoosta]

I’m looking for Eric Marshall from Turbo Tweak chips or someone with knowledge from a similar set up.

I am in the process of fine tuning my combination; I ran through the sequences of the adjustable parameters from 1 through 4 as indicated on the TT chip literature, and discovered that the number 4 parameter (WOT Spark Timing, 3rd/4th gear adjustment) was set at 153 according to my Scanmaster. This means that my timing is 8.8* of timing change in those gears Is this normal? Has anyone else experienced this also?

My chip is a 93oct street chip that was initially burned for my stock turbo and stock DP, I since then replaced both components with a TE-44 and a 3” THDP…the 50 injectors remained the same.

I dialed down the boost between 16 to 17 of boost on 93oct; my car was experiencing some knock (1.6 the highest reading and 0.7 the lowest); I don’t recalled which gear. I had to crank up the static fuel pressure to 53psi VAC off to get the O2 counts in the 750 to 760 range low gears…at high gears it showed 722 lowest and 742 highest, but it bounces all over the place no matter where it is (running at idle, cruising or jumping on it). It is very difficult to watch for all these parameters (boost level, O2 counts, Knock, the road and while trying to keep the car straight).

I went ahead and adjusted Parameter 1 (WOT Fuel Overall) to 143…+11.7% Richer. And Parameter 2 (WOT 1st Gear offset) is now adjusted to 117…-8.6% Leaner.

I finally got that pain in the butt TPS sensor to cooperate, now it reads .42 idle and 4.52 WOT. I had to find a good point by moving it up and down/back and forth where I was able to adjust idle and WOT w/o any of those two variables being compromised. Meaning, before I was getting .40 to .46 but the WOT was always falling to 4.98!

I haven’t driven the car since implemented these latest chip changes last night due to rain, but I can tell that the throttle feel is much crisper while it idle in the garage. The car does not smoke you out of the whole house anymore. I lowered the static to 45psi, but now my IAC reads 31 and sometimes it bounces up to 33! The four dabs on the T+ are set to: ON / ON / ON / OFF.

I am new at this, so if you guys see something I could also implement, please let me know. Is my approach correct? What suggestions do you have?

Thanks:biggrin:

 

[Eric Stage I]

All of the programmable cells should be at 128 by default, if the ECM was reset (unplugged) when the chip was installed.

If the chip was made for a stock turbo, and you put on a TE44, you'll need to add about 10-15% fuel to the WOT fuel adjustment. You don't need to change the fuel pressure, keep that in the 43psi area.

Work back and forth between boost and WOT fuel to get the most boost with the least amount of knock (preferable zero). If you can't seem to get the knock to go away, then try reducing timing a couple degrees.

Sounds like you're on the right track!

Eric

 

[MyBoosta]

All of the programmable cells should be at 128 by default, if the ECM was reset (unplugged) when the chip was installed.

If the chip was made for a stock turbo, and you put on a TE44, you'll need to add about 10-15% fuel to the WOT fuel adjustment. You don't need to change the fuel pressure, keep that in the 43psi area.

Work back and forth between boost and WOT fuel to get the most boost with the least amount of knock (preferable zero). If you can't seem to get the knock to go away, then try reducing timing a couple degrees.

Sounds like you're on the right track!

Eric

Hello Eric,

Are you referring to the Overall WOT fuel Parameter 1? Or also the 1st gear fuel as well Parameter 2?

Before even seeing your reply above, I took it upon my self to adjust the Parameter # 4 to 128, then I lower the fuel pressure to 45 static w/o vacuum, then adjusted the TPS to .44 idle and 4.80 WOT.

Took her out for a ride and now I see O2 readings in the 750 to 765 range when gunning it and NO Knock it all thus far and that was with coolant temps in the 170's. Boost level reads about 16.5 to 17.5 psi (it flashes really fast). I don't have a 1/4 mile track close by, so I am using the streets around the house, therefore, I can't stand on it for too long for fear of cops.

I finally came back home and noticed that my TPS jumped up to .46 idle, but the WOT stayed the same (4.80). So I played with it again and go it down to .42 idle and 4.78 WOT. I also noticed that the fuel pressure also jumped to 47psi w/o vac...right now there is where it is.

NOW...

You are suggesting to bring down the fuel pressure to 43psi, and I'm assuming that you want me to adjust the Parameter 1 10% to 15% richer...correct? I adjusted Parameter 1 to 143 (11.7%) before I even read your reply. I can surely give it more fuel via the Parameter adjustment route. I sort of like the way my 1st gear feels (Parameter 2)...I leaned it to 117 (-8.6% lean) and the throttle feels crisper that way.

I was thinking about leaning out the Parameter 2 further to about (115/-10.2% OR 114/-10.9%) AND then richen Parameter 1 to about (146/14.1% OR 147/14.8%), there is no 15.0 as you suggested...15.6 is the next rich code after 14.8!

Now that I have the swing of this chip Parameters adjustments deal, I'm loving it. Heck, now when and if I decide to add straight racing fuel, I can simply add timing to my car by using my still on-board T+ correct?
What timing (Low and High) is set into my 93oct chip?

Thanks in advance for all your help Eric

 

[Eric Stage I]

The 10-15% was if you were starting from scratch. That was the #1 parameter.

Since you've got it where it's running good, then I would leave it. Sometimes if you lower the fuel pressure, the bottom end will be more "crisp". But you can leave it if its running good there.

The TPS settings are not that critical. As long as idle is in the .38-48 area, it will be fine, and WOT is 4.20 to 4.80.

Yes the Trans+ timing adjustment will work to add or subtract timing.

Regards,
Eric

 

[MyBoosta]

The 10-15% was if you were starting from scratch. That was the #1 parameter.

Since you've got it where it's running good, then I would leave it. Sometimes if you lower the fuel pressure, the bottom end will be more "crisp". But you can leave it if its running good there.

The TPS settings are not that critical. As long as idle is in the .38-48 area, it will be fine, and WOT is 4.20 to 4.80.

Yes the Trans+ timing adjustment will work to add or subtract timing.

Regards,
Eric

Thanks Eric.

Now, do I need to buy a "race chip" if I decide to add an Alky kit to my combo? Meaning, if I can tune it for race fuel, can I basicly use that same tune it for the Alky? Adjust timing (form 18* to 24* LOW & from 15* to 21* HIGH) with the T+. And of course, play with fuel press and Parameters 1 and 2!

Tonight I will lower the fuel press to 43, add fuel to Parameter 1 (overall WOT fuel)from 11.7 to 14.8% AND further lean out Parameter 2 (1st gear fuel) from -8.6 to -10.2 and see how she likes that.

I'm keeping a log on ALL my changes, so going back to the previous setting is not an issue. Besides, it is so easy to adjust and re-adjust; I'm getting down to a science. I just want to see which settings she really likes best. Don't worry (not that you were), but I am keeping a gigantic eye on my O2 counts and Knock.

I'll report back.

Thanks:wink:

 

[Eric Stage I]

My race chip refers to a chip to be used with race fuel. If you want to use alcohol, you can use the adjustments in your street chip to get it close, or use an alcohol chip.

You are pretty much there with your tune it sounds like. 17psi is about the most you can expect safely with your current setup and 93 octane.

 

[MyBoosta]

My race chip refers to a chip to be used with race fuel. If you want to use alcohol, you can use the adjustments in your street chip to get it close, or use an alcohol chip.

You are pretty much there with your tune it sounds like. 17psi is about the most you can expect safely with your current setup and 93 octane.

Hello Eric,

It's me again, I went out last night to double check on my adjustments (fuel press adjustment/chip recalibration throught the gas pedal) and this is what I got:

I check and adjusted the fuel press no/vac at warm up (it read 47psi) after warm up..164* coolant temp(it read 45psi). Drove it around and I adjusted it to 47.5 to 48 psi warm and left it there.

Then I jumped on it...NO KNOCK but the O2 readings were in the 775 to 785 zone in 1st & 2nd and about 722 or so in 3rd...again, no knock...NONE!

I then added fuel 154 (+ 20%) WOT, and leaned out the 1st gear adjustment 109 (-14.8%) for faster spool up and: the car ran a little stronger, the O2 readings were in the 792 to 810 right before shifting into 2nd and then it dropped to about 740 to 720 in 3rd but mainly towards the end of 3rd. I did not get any knock...NONE! And the car was hauling...that needle was past 85mph really fast.

I wonder if I can ever get this thing to read 750 to 800 in 3rd all the time like every one says it should. Do I need to replace my 340 walboro pump you think? It's about 3.5 years old, and so are the 50lbs injectors.

The car felt good, but only a time slip will tell me the real story. Oh yeah, since it was cool last night, and I was testing around a park where are plenty of trees on both sides of the road (cooler), the boost gauge read 19 to almost 20psi. And again, NO KNOCK!

Is this weird to you?

Sorry for my long email and thanks for all your inputs.

 

[Eric Stage I]

No, not weird. I see it all the time. When you tune a car to the ragged edge, you have fairly high EGT. High EGT can make the O2 read leaner. It also depends on the O2 sensor itself. You might try a different O2 sensor, just to see if you get the same results.
If you start pushing it past 17psi in 3rd gear on a regular basis with your setup, be very careful. Now if you had ported heads, and/or a front mount intercooler, it might be safer.
When you see the recommendation of O2's between 750 and 800, that is a general recommendation for what works for most people. There are always exceptions.