TT CHIP and Fuel Injectors

#1
Good day,

I have a 1987 turbo T we2 y56 3.8 l turbo.

I have a 3 inch down pipe and brand new dual exhaust.

I have the stock garret turbo charger.

K and N filter replacing stock air filter.

It is time for me to get rid of the 30 year old fuel injectors.

Need feedback from the forum on the steps to take to do this and what chip/fuel injectors so i purchase.

My goal is to improve performance and am not looking to have a car running 10 second quarters. I want it to run well and have a little more pop than it currently does. I'm 52 and dont need a 10 second car. Just one that has the balls only sparingly when required :)

When I put on the new exhaust and 3 inch down pipe, i already got more horsepower.

My thought is to do the following

1) New fuel pump
2) new fuel lines
3) Hotwire fuel pump
4) New fuel injectors
5) New TT chip.

Would this be the order you work at putting in new fuel injectors?

Is there a one stop shop I could order number 1 to 5?

Any recommendations on what to buy for what my goals are?
 
#2
I’m new to this too. Just ordered 42lb injectors/chip from TurboTweak. I installed a walbro fuel pump and hotwire kit from Kirbans a few weeks ago. Just ordered an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and gauge from Kirbans today. I am in the same boat as you. Mine is stock, just want slightly better performance.


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#3
Awesome.
I’m new to this too. Just ordered 42lb injectors/chip from TurboTweak. I installed a walbro fuel pump and hotwire kit from Kirbans a few weeks ago. Just ordered an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and gauge from Kirbans today. I am in the same boat as you. Mine is stock, just want slightly better performance.


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Awesome. Thank you. I'm getting much closer to understanding the needs. Can be confusing. All I want is a quick cruiser.
 
#4
I really want to keep mine original as much as I can. I don’t want visible gauges on the hood or inside the car. I also ordered a Scanmaster from turbo tweak, and I’m going to install it inside the glove compartment.


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1986 Buick GX1

GX1 #001 [The One and Only]
#6
Good day,

I have a 1987 turbo T we2 y56 3.8 l turbo.

I have a 3 inch down pipe and brand new dual exhaust.

I have the stock garret turbo charger.

K and N filter replacing stock air filter.

It is time for me to get rid of the 30 year old fuel injectors.

Need feedback from the forum on the steps to take to do this and what chip/fuel injectors so i purchase.

My goal is to improve performance and am not looking to have a car running 10 second quarters. I want it to run well and have a little more pop than it currently does. I'm 52 and dont need a 10 second car. Just one that has the balls only sparingly when required :)

When I put on the new exhaust and 3 inch down pipe, i already got more horsepower.

My thought is to do the following

1) New fuel pump
2) new fuel lines
3) Hotwire fuel pump
4) New fuel injectors
5) New TT chip.

Would this be the order you work at putting in new fuel injectors?

Is there a one stop shop I could order number 1 to 5?

Any recommendations on what to buy for what my goals are?
The first step is figuring out what the engine is telling you.

The first thing to get is a scanmaster (rectangle box) or scanmaster G (gauge) so you can monitor your vitals and NOT blow it up.
I know it seems a waste of $250 ish (used is less) to buy just a scan tool/ display. It is imperative you have NO knock/ pinging/ detonation so you can safely make more power! Most of the time you cannot hear detonation in a boosted application so you NEED something to tell you.

Second is an accurate boost gauge as the stock analog dash is not, and worse is the digital dash that tells you when you have 2 psi. of boost and 8 psi.

Third is a fuel pressure gauge you can see while driving so you know you have enough fuel pressure at max boost (base fuel press. + max. boost = fuel press.) example [43 lbs. base press. + 15 psi. boost = 58 lbs. fuel press.] when running 20 psi. boost you need 63 lbs. fuel pressure.

Then fuel pump and fuel pump hotwire kit with fuel lines if needed. Without a fuel pressure gauge you don't know if you have adequate fuel or not.

A Turbotweak chip made for your combo (the recommended base pressure for the TT chip is 43 lbs. which will require an adjustable fuel pressure regulator or one for a Turbo Trans Am IIRC).
And fuel injectors for your goal and fuel (E-85).

As a side note, the 60 lb. and 80lb. injectors idle and run as well as the 42.5's with room to grow or if considering E-85.

To get the most out of any combo (running 9's and slower) is to use flow matched injectors and the RJC Racing Air Distribution Power Plate (the power plate equalizes airflow to all cylinders eliminating the lean condition caused by the stock intake alone) allowing you to safely run a couple more lbs. of boost, more power.

http://rjcracing.com/product/airflow-distribution-plate/

Turbotweak has everything minus the fuel lines, and they may have them too.

http://www.turbotweakstore.com/mobile/default.aspx

I really want to keep mine original as much as I can. I don’t want visible gauges on the hood or inside the car. I also ordered a Scanmaster from turbo tweak, and I’m going to install it inside the glove compartment.


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I know having gauges strewn about is not the cleanest look, but they are needed.
Maybe these options are satisfactory.

http://www.buickgn.com/gaugepods.htm

https://gbodyparts.com/product_info...=2917&osCsid=e8b85845808420cbe76cca855e2db60f

Tuck this fuel pressure gauge under your wiper when in use and under hood when not.

I can't seem to find it at the moment.

Maybe an audible knock detector that can be hidden is more to you liking. Kirban Performance may sell it as well.

http://www.casperselectronics.com/c...oduct/product&path=7_53_54_10_14&product_id=6

Search spring cleaning and maintenance (separate things)
As well.

Cheers,
George
 
#7
Good day,

I have a 1987 turbo T we2 y56 3.8 l turbo.

I have a 3 inch down pipe and brand new dual exhaust.

I have the stock garret turbo charger.

K and N filter replacing stock air filter.

It is time for me to get rid of the 30 year old fuel injectors.

Need feedback from the forum on the steps to take to do this and what chip/fuel injectors so i purchase.

My goal is to improve performance and am not looking to have a car running 10 second quarters. I want it to run well and have a little more pop than it currently does. I'm 52 and dont need a 10 second car. Just one that has the balls only sparingly when required :)

When I put on the new exhaust and 3 inch down pipe, i already got more horsepower.

My thought is to do the following

1) New fuel pump
2) new fuel lines
3) Hotwire fuel pump
4) New fuel injectors
5) New TT chip.

Would this be the order you work at putting in new fuel injectors?

Is there a one stop shop I could order number 1 to 5?

Any recommendations on what to buy for what my goals are?
The first step is figuring out what the engine is telling you.

The first thing to get is a scanmaster (rectangle box) or scanmaster G (gauge) so you can monitor your vitals and NOT blow it up.
I know it seems a waste of $250 ish (used is less) to buy just a scan tool/ display. It is imperative you have NO knock/ pinging/ detonation so you can safely make more power! Most of the time you cannot hear detonation in a boosted application so you NEED something to tell you.

Second is an accurate boost gauge as the stock analog dash is not, and worse is the digital dash that tells you when you have 2 psi. of boost and 8 psi.

Third is a fuel pressure gauge you can see while driving so you know you have enough fuel pressure at max boost (base fuel press. + max. boost = fuel press.) example [43 lbs. base press. + 15 psi. boost = 58 lbs. fuel press.] when running 20 psi. boost you need 63 lbs. fuel pressure.

Then fuel pump and fuel pump hotwire kit with fuel lines if needed. Without a fuel pressure gauge you don't know if you have adequate fuel or not.

A Turbotweak chip made for your combo (the recommended base pressure for the TT chip is 43 lbs. which will require an adjustable fuel pressure regulator or one for a Turbo Trans Am IIRC).
And fuel injectors for your goal and fuel (E-85).

As a side note, the 60 lb. and 80lb. injectors idle and run as well as the 42.5's with room to grow or if considering E-85.

To get the most out of any combo (running 9's and slower) is to use flow matched injectors and the RJC Racing Air Distribution Power Plate (the power plate equalizes airflow to all cylinders eliminating the lean condition caused by the stock intake alone) allowing you to safely run a couple more lbs. of boost, more power.

http://rjcracing.com/product/airflow-distribution-plate/

Turbotweak has everything minus the fuel lines, and they may have them too.

http://www.turbotweakstore.com/mobile/default.aspx

I really want to keep mine original as much as I can. I don’t want visible gauges on the hood or inside the car. I also ordered a Scanmaster from turbo tweak, and I’m going to install it inside the glove compartment.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I know having gauges strewn about is not the cleanest look, but they are needed.
Maybe these options are satisfactory.

http://www.buickgn.com/gaugepods.htm

https://gbodyparts.com/product_info...=2917&osCsid=e8b85845808420cbe76cca855e2db60f

Tuck this fuel pressure gauge under your wiper when in use and under hood when not.

I can't seem to find it at the moment.

Maybe an audible knock detector that can be hidden is more to you liking. Kirban Performance may sell it as well.

http://www.casperselectronics.com/c...oduct/product&path=7_53_54_10_14&product_id=6

Search spring cleaning and maintenance (separate things)
As well.

Cheers,
George
Thank you! I will do more research


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1986 Buick GX1

GX1 #001 [The One and Only]
#8
This is similar to what I was thinking.
The one I have has a foam tube around the top portion to protect the wiper arm and the windshield. One could be added.

IMG_4888.PNG


https://gbodyparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=1194&osCsid=95c433f8304a9c9c45db5a08ae7b52ac

It would be a good idea to get an apgraded maf and translator or perhaps a rebuilt replacement stock maf from Kirban's as the stock units are old and most are inaccurate and the parts store replacements are built with the wrong parts. There is only a 10% chance you'll get one that runs right.
 

hensleyt

Active Member
#9
My goal is to improve performance and am not looking to have a car running 10 second quarters. I want it to run well and have a little more pop than it currently does. I'm 52 and dont need a 10 second car. Just one that has the balls only sparingly when required :)
I like how you said that.but more is needed.I have had my GN 10 years and wanted the same thing at young age of 51.At 61 I drive my car some Sundays,but mostly to and from the race track,I set a goal of 11.5 because I will not install a roll bar.
It’s hard to set a goal and stick with it,and be reliable.I built a 10 second car to have a reliable 11.5 car.
So set back think long and hard,
1.is it going to be a DD?
2.will it be most likely a race car?
3.Our 5000 miles a year car that will spin the tires at will at any light ?
I started out #3 but got the bug after my first race 100% stock. It been a $$$ pit ever seance and I have never regretted it.But it’s been expensive.
 
#10
I always went straight to 60# injectors. Won't have to upgrade for a long time. Fuel pump, hot wire kit, adj fuel pressure regulator, and TT chip. Scanmaster helps to diagnose and set things, like TPS etc. Should be able to run 13.0 at 104 in perfect conditions on stock with a TT chip and those mods in good air. I wouldn't replace the fuel lines unless there is visible damage to them.
 
#11
I always went straight to 60# injectors. Won't have to upgrade for a long time. Fuel pump, hot wire kit, adj fuel pressure regulator, and TT chip. Scanmaster helps to diagnose and set things, like TPS etc. Should be able to run 13.0 at 104 in perfect conditions on stock with a TT chip and those mods in good air. I wouldn't replace the fuel lines unless there is visible damage to them.
I agree.
 
#12
I also second the statement about the fuel lines being replaced...no need unless they are leaking. These cars are definitely a lot of fun to drive, and as much as I understand not wanting the cockpit to be cluttered with gauges, at very MINIMUM the scantool should be visible at all times.
 
#13
i am also in the same boat. doing all the exact same mods except at the moment i am on the stock down pipe which i will upgrade in the future. what would be an expected 1/4 time on TT chip and 42lb injectors at 16 psi. stock down pipe?

also what the most cost effective way to go to 3" down pipe?
 

Heskahoka

Supporting Member
#14
Good day,

...

1) New fuel pump
2) new fuel lines
3) Hotwire fuel pump
4) New fuel injectors
5) New TT chip.

Would this be the order you work at putting in new fuel injectors?

Is there a one stop shop I could order number 1 to 5?

Any recommendations on what to buy for what my goals are?
1) New fuel pump -yes
2) new fuel lines - no-not needed
3) Hotwire fuel pump - yes
4) New fuel injectors - yes, 60s or 80s. 80s are only $10 more from Turbotweak store and run like stock with the right turbotweak chip
5) New TT chip. -yes

What others have said above - get a Scanmaster if you do not have one.
A clean mount for the rectangle box Scanmaster here:
All above are available from Turbotweak.

You probably want an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and a fuel pressure gauge under the hood.
Boost gauge maybe yes, maybe no; the regular boost gauge might be fine if you are not going to turn up the boost much.
 

mikestertwo

Well-Known Member
#15
I know I'll catch flak on this but I would go with 42# injectors. I have a GN with the same setup as the OP and did an experiment with 42# green top injectors vs. 60# injectors. Both setups had matching TT chips running the same boost. The 42# setup had better throttle response and drivability than the 60# setup. The car was no faster with the 60's than it was with the 42's. Unless your going to start building the motor with ported heads, larger turbo, cam, and cranking up the boost the 42's will supply plenty of fuel for the job. JMHO
 

Mr.Spool

Well-Known Member
#16
I know I'll catch flak on this but I would go with 42# injectors. I have a GN with the same setup as the OP and did an experiment with 42# green top injectors vs. 60# injectors. Both setups had matching TT chips running the same boost. The 42# setup had better throttle response and drivability than the 60# setup.
you wont from me.i ran 42's into the 10s years ago.my friend ran 36lb and went 11.0.the cars drove great.i am a believer in a well matched combo
 

Pronto

You're very kind. Some day it will get you killed.
#18
Larger injectors will not make the car faster until it needs the extra fuel. If you are truly not looking to go faster than 13.0 which the usual first landing spot for mods 36 blue tops are pretty darn nice. I rode them to mid 12s. Probably harder to find now than 60s. I would look to a hot wire/fuel pump to start. And a Scanmaster if you don't have one already.
 
#19
Great advice from everybody run the smaller injectors until you need the bigger ones also when you need to upgrade the fuel pump look into the dw fuelpumps the 400 pump will allow around 900-horsepower roughly with the stock lines they also offer smaller pumps and if anybody on here needs any of these pumps I can get them and their injectors for 10% less than retail for any of the Buick guys just PM me