TRZ rack & pinion?

Jicaju

Jicaju
Joined
Feb 10, 2005
I am about to install the TRZ Rack & Pinion Steering on my car. Started reading old post about how you lost some turning radius. I have just finished installing new Aerospace brakes on the front with stock spindles. From what I have read you will gain more turning radious by using 1st Gen Camero spindles along with the TRZ Billet Aluminum Steering Arms. Now before I start removing and changing things just how bad is it? I will drive some on the street but not to a whole lot.

Thanks Michael
 
is this for the TA that you have as an avatar?
if so, you aren't gonna use anything besides 3rd gen F body spindles without a ton of work due to the McPherson strut arrangement.
 
is this for the TA that you have as an avatar?
if so, you aren't gonna use anything besides 3rd gen F body spindles without a ton of work due to the McPherson strut arrangement.

No TTA is back stock now. This is for a T-Type. I have TRZ upper & lowers, QA1 coil overs in front.

Michael
 
why do you want to go with a rack and pinion setup? seems like a lot of expense and aggravation to save a few pounds and screw up the steering geometry..
 
I went to a full TRZ setup including the 1st GenF body spindles and their rack and Pinion setup and wilwood street brakes and i saved ove 100lbs.

Anyone who tells me that this is just "a few pounds" obviously has an eating disorder.

The turing radius is worse than stock but it is managable by all means. If you are making this car into a daily grocery getter then maybe stay away from the rack and PInion, but honestly i am very happy with the weight savings and the fact that i got rid of soo much crap in the frontend.

Adrian
 
I went to a full TRZ setup including the 1st GenF body spindles and their rack and Pinion setup and wilwood street brakes and i saved ove 100lbs.

Anyone who tells me that this is just "a few pounds" obviously has an eating disorder.

The turing radius is worse than stock but it is managable by all means. If you are making this car into a daily grocery getter then maybe stay away from the rack and PInion, but honestly i am very happy with the weight savings and the fact that i got rid of soo much crap in the frontend.

Adrian

Thanks for the reply. I was waiting for someone to reply that had accually made this switch.

Michael
 
I just installed the TRZ rack a few weeks ago... I probably put about 50 miles on it before the car was totaled. :( Here's what I can tell you from experience, The install is not too bad, just a few hours. You can install it above the crossmember, no need to run through it. You only need to use two joints in the column, which is great because that means you don't need to use the supplied column brace. The steering radius is reduced. U turns are impossible. Regular driving feel is good you will only have problems in slow speed situations such as parking lots, Uturns, etc.Steering effort is not bad at all, only slightly harder than power steering, and I even had 245's on the front. Much like you, I knew about the reduced steering radius going into it, but I already have a Wilwood setup for stock spindles so I didn't want to go with the F body arms. My plan was to shorten the steering arms on the stock spindles. It really shouldn't be a big deal to band saw two inches off the arms and have someone qualified in cast iron repair weld them back together. Hope this helps. I did take a few pictures, I'll see if I can find them.
 
I just installed the TRZ rack a few weeks ago... I probably put about 50 miles on it before the car was totaled. :( Here's what I can tell you from experience, The install is not too bad, just a few hours. You can install it above the crossmember, no need to run through it. You only need to use two joints in the column, which is great because that means you don't need to use the supplied column brace. The steering radius is reduced. U turns are impossible. Regular driving feel is good you will only have problems in slow speed situations such as parking lots, Uturns, etc.Steering effort is not bad at all, only slightly harder than power steering, and I even had 245's on the front. Much like you, I knew about the reduced steering radius going into it, but I already have a Wilwood setup for stock spindles so I didn't want to go with the F body arms. My plan was to shorten the steering arms on the stock spindles. It really shouldn't be a big deal to band saw two inches off the arms and have someone qualified in cast iron repair weld them back together. Hope this helps. I did take a few pictures, I'll see if I can find them.

Scott here are some pics of the brake set up with 1st gen camero spindles and TRZ steering arms. If you notice the steering arms have 2 holes. Outer is pretty much stock location inner holes will help some with turning radious. I have not started on rack & pinion yet. I need to get brake lines made then I will start. If you have pictures of how you went over cross member that would be appriciated. Instuctios show it going through cross member. Don't know which way I will go.

Thanks Michael
 

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I've seen the TRZ aluminum arm setup on Fbody spindles, it just wasn't really an option for me because my brake setup was for stock spindles and it would be around $400 to get brackets, bearings, races, etc for Fbody spindles. That was my reason for shortening the stock steering arms.
This is the only picture I could find, I do know there are others on here that have done it this way as well, problem is the search feature is a bit flaky lately. Rememer this is a universal Gbody steering kit, there's no way to go above the crossmember with a V8, it will only work with our V6's.You basically want to stay as close to the motor mount perch as possible. I wish I could show you clearance after the motor was installed but I cant find anything.
 

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I like the way you installed better. I really did not want to cut hole in cross member or remove frame braces. What did you do for proportioning valve? I was wondering if I could gut stock proportioning valve and use it primarily as a block so I could limit tne lines I would need to make? And yes this will be a V-6.

Michael
 
I had 4 wheel disks so I just replaced my combination valve with a disk/disk valve. easy peasy. If you're sticking with drums in the rear I would proceed just like you mentioned in the other thread, full pressure to the front and aftermarket adjustable for the rear.
 
I have disc front and rear. When you say disc to disc valve what do you mean? Can you show me an example or link?

Michael
 
Being that I will be running skinnys on front will I need the adjustable proportioning valve on back brakes with this brass valve? Sorry for so many questions.

Michael
 
I had skinnys for a few years with no issues, It's so inexpensive and easy to install it's worth it to try at least. I don't mind, I'm stuck in a chair for three months all busted up, surfing tb.com and facebook is pretty much my life. LOL. :)
 
Makes sense I will give it a try. Sorry you got hurt and the loss of you car. Whats your opinion of rear suspension between TRZ anti-roll bar set-up and H&R parts insane series. I am leaning towards H&R but the TRZ set-up is a little cheaper and a little lighter? I have a m-9 rear and stageII with 42-76. And again thanks for taking time to respond.

Michael
 
We did a TRZ rack install on a GN a couple years ago and went through the frame with the steering shaft as shown in the pic below.

After this I decided to just do my race car with a S-10 manual box, Baer brakes and G-body arms which saved me about 100 pounds and still have excellent steering. :)

GN rack.jpg
 
I only have experience with the HR bar. It worked great for me. The weld in style bars are great too but in my opinion a race only piece. Since I'm a street guy, the HR was an easy choice, plus Paul is a good dude.
 
Yes I agree Paul is a stand-up guy. I just saw a picture of your car after crash!! Man you took a hell of a lick. Get well soon.

Michael
 
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