Well here is my issue...
The car at idle is running BLM's of 150. If I rev it up or give it some gas while driving it will drop back down to the 130-140s and if Im giving it a decent amount of gas it is at 128, but low throttle cruising always goes back up to 150.
In my pursuit to fix it, the first thing I did was vicegrip the pcv hose shut by pinching it. It didnt change anything.
The second thing I did was remove the vacuum block from the top of the motor and made a makeshift block off gasket out of duct tape that closed off all of the vacuum from reaching the block. this time when I fired it up, the car was running eyeburningly rich at idle with blms of 100. So next I removed that gasket and cut out a little hole...this would now only allow vacuum to everything except the PCV, this time the rich issue went away and confirmed to me that it was not pcv related as it was still blocked off, yet no longer running rich.
Now ive got most of the ports on the block taped off trying to diagnose where this is coming from. the only things I have hooked up are the one line that runs to my map sensor/boostgauge/boost solenoid for my MAFTPRO and another port that runs to the fuel pressure regulator.
based on the fact that the boost gauge seems to be working fine, i dont think there is a leak in that harness either, plus it is all new with ziptied lines and whatnot, the only line it could be in is the fuel pressure regulator line and that seems to be working as well. I have upgraded to the aftermarket billet one, but the lines are all stock, should i remove the factory one-way-valve looking parts from it?
Any help is greatlyt appreciated as this is keeping me from really being able to tune this thing right. I cannot get the IAC numbers low enough to even set the TPS correctly, if i compeletely pull off the iac screw so the TB closes, my IAC is still at mid 80s
Could this be related to my maftepro or extender chip? i dont seem to remember having these problems at idle on my stock chip or injectors. Ive got another 60lb chip laying around that I may have top pop in to see how it reads. right now my idle O2s are around 150-200, which i didnt think it would even run at.
Any help would be appreciated because it is causing driveablity issues once warmed up, it wants to stall out if you dont give it any gas.
The car at idle is running BLM's of 150. If I rev it up or give it some gas while driving it will drop back down to the 130-140s and if Im giving it a decent amount of gas it is at 128, but low throttle cruising always goes back up to 150.
In my pursuit to fix it, the first thing I did was vicegrip the pcv hose shut by pinching it. It didnt change anything.
The second thing I did was remove the vacuum block from the top of the motor and made a makeshift block off gasket out of duct tape that closed off all of the vacuum from reaching the block. this time when I fired it up, the car was running eyeburningly rich at idle with blms of 100. So next I removed that gasket and cut out a little hole...this would now only allow vacuum to everything except the PCV, this time the rich issue went away and confirmed to me that it was not pcv related as it was still blocked off, yet no longer running rich.
Now ive got most of the ports on the block taped off trying to diagnose where this is coming from. the only things I have hooked up are the one line that runs to my map sensor/boostgauge/boost solenoid for my MAFTPRO and another port that runs to the fuel pressure regulator.
based on the fact that the boost gauge seems to be working fine, i dont think there is a leak in that harness either, plus it is all new with ziptied lines and whatnot, the only line it could be in is the fuel pressure regulator line and that seems to be working as well. I have upgraded to the aftermarket billet one, but the lines are all stock, should i remove the factory one-way-valve looking parts from it?
Any help is greatlyt appreciated as this is keeping me from really being able to tune this thing right. I cannot get the IAC numbers low enough to even set the TPS correctly, if i compeletely pull off the iac screw so the TB closes, my IAC is still at mid 80s
Could this be related to my maftepro or extender chip? i dont seem to remember having these problems at idle on my stock chip or injectors. Ive got another 60lb chip laying around that I may have top pop in to see how it reads. right now my idle O2s are around 150-200, which i didnt think it would even run at.
Any help would be appreciated because it is causing driveablity issues once warmed up, it wants to stall out if you dont give it any gas.
