Trunk mounted battery ? again?

[V6DVette]

Lets beat this horse again.
Can I just kill power to the exciter wire to the Alt. with a 30 amp relay powered off the main power kill switch and be compliant with the almighty? Or do I HAVE to open the main to the battery from the Alt??
Just seems simpler to do.
Guess that just answered my own question. If its simpler ....ya can't do it that way...


I'm never gonna finish this car!

 

[salvageV6]

By Law errr rules, you have to cut the car off from the battery and alternator. Must die when you hit the switch.

So you need to tie the alternator output directly to the battery and have the car on the other side of that big switch.

This means the back of the alternator to the battery wire which is about 4 gauge for that length is ALWAYS live since it's tied to the battery.

You could use the far side of the switch as a trigger to a HIGH CURRENT 140 Ampere or so actuator or relay or solenoid to switch power off that wire to the alternator if you don't want it live all the time.

Exciter (brown) wire is dead when you hit the kill switch when wired right so it's not a problem.

 

[Nashty]

The alternator must connect to the battery to keep it charged, so it will always be hot. 4 gauge is overkill though. MAD supplies an 8 gauge for up to 22' of wiring. You could also put a remote start solenoid in there to keep the main battery to starter wire cold except when starting. If using a permenant magnet starter (LT-1) you must add a relay to kill that after switching though.

 

[salvageV6]

I don't think 8 gauge is sufficient for a 120A alternator over 22'.

It's good for about 80 amps.

6 would probably work, 4 I know will.

Just my .02.