Tranny wines in reverse only?

B

BIGONTS

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Joined
Oct 22, 2007
I have a built 200 and it wines when I put it in reverse. Running with 3,400 stall. Wines mostly when it's warmed up. Not when cold. It shifts great, up and down, no slip, etc. Just the wine in reverse that I'm concerned about. I changed the fluid and filter and made sure the o-ring is on there. It's been doing it for a while. Cable is adjusted correctly. I have a rather small trans cooler on there now that I'm upgrading. Aux cooler only, not through radiator. Hopefully that helps. No temp gauge yet, so can't tell what it's running it.

BTW, it did it before and after trans flush and filter change. I changed to John Deer fluid to tighten up the converter a bit, which worked.

Can high temp cause it? Obviously it's triggering/causing it.
Or, high or low pressure?
Since it's been doing it for a while, did this cause any damage?
If so, what to look for?

Like I said, trans acts great. It's pretty fretty fresh with all CK internals, etc... Just want to know what I'm possibly in for before I might take it to Jimmy's for a refresh. Like I said, hopefully the larger cooler will solve it. Planning on getting a 10x15 or larger Hayden tube&fin cooler which CK recommended. Thanks for the input.
 
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Only whines when standing in reverse. Once start moving it goes away. Kid of gurgling sound? Seems like right when u put it in R it's kind of loud than quiets after a few seconds, but does not go away when standing. Goes away once moving in reverse.

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off topic, but what jd fluid do you use, and is it really better than using atf? sorry if this is a thread hump, just saw you changed to JD fluid and am curious.
 
Powertechn2 said:
off topic, but what jd fluid do you use, and is it really better than using atf? sorry if this is a thread hump, just saw you changed to JD fluid and am curious.
Click to expand...

Its hy-guard. Trans and hydraulic fluid. Read up on it on some of the race forums like yellowbullet.com. Some race trans builders prefer it with 350, 400 and powerglides. Might be heavier or something? Its clear also? My stall went down a bit. 200-300 rpms.

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I know what hyguard is, hope its the low viscosity version as they offer two weights. I am an outdoor power equipment tech, there is a huge difference between the high and low visc, like basically 20-50 and 5-30ish or less viscosity... That is why I had inquired in the first place.


I can not condone against it, just curious which one it is that is suggested to be used.
I mean if I were going to use a tractor hydraulic fluid I would much rather use a good synthetic based fluid that offer wayyy more protection than hyguard, but that is just me. There are a lot more hydraulic fluids that are better than hyguard imo. at least in the industry which it is made for, which kinda goes to say a lot for that fluid itself imo. This is just my opinion though.

Neither hyguard is near the same viscosity as normal atf, just putting that out there.
 
Seems like pump whine. Reverse pressure is boosted and is typically higher than the other ranges at idle. Another interesting test would be to get a helper and have them pull your TV cable (cable only, not throttle) out while the transmission is in Drive and engine at idle. See if it makes the same noise when the pressure comes up.
 
Could it be the pressure relief letting off pressure as Greg points out pressure is up when in rev.

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MeanBuicks said:
Seems like pump whine. Reverse pressure is boosted and is typically higher than the other ranges at idle. Another interesting test would be to get a helper and have them pull your TV cable (cable only, not throttle) out while the transmission is in Drive and engine at idle. See if it makes the same noise when the pressure comes up.
Click to expand...

Will run this test tonight. Any other recommended while I'm at it?

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Those are the pressures I measured on my trans. There is a column for the postition of the shifter a reading of pressure at tv rest. Then a third column where we pulled the tv cable to full and took a reading on the gauge. This tells us the tv and pump are working.

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When you mean moving the TV cable "out" or "full" means away or towards the firewall when pressing the side button?
 
No. You don't want to mess with the adjustment. Just grab the inner cable end itself and pull it out just as the throttle lever would. You're just manually moving the cable independently of the throttle. The cable end (left side of diagram) unclips from the pivot on the throttle lever.

tvgeom.jpg
 
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By pulling the cable like Greg said you are simulating the tv being activated through its rage and making sure the tv valve is elevating the pressures as it should. I disconnected the end of the cable from the throttle lever. This enables you to pull the cable out while a helper holds the brakes and moves the shifter to various positions while you note the pressures on the gauge, and pull the cable to get a reading on that.
 
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