TR6 does it AGAIN!

Nick Micale

Tech Advisor
Staff member
Joined
May 26, 2001
We have been doing e-85 conversions on turbo cars for a few years now and have found with the higher performance builds they are not able to handle higher boost levels w/o breaking up like a 2-step is limiting RPM?

A slow rise in RPM will allow boost to 15-20 PSI, but a WOT burst will not get over 12-15 PSI w/o breaking up.

One GN we finished converting about a year ago was good over 20 PSI, but lately it has be acting like described and finally when the owner could not even get to 10 PSI, he came back to have it check it out.

We tried 2 known good coil pack/module units with little to no gain. After many other checks we finally were able to get a TR6 unit and installed it on the car.

The owner now has the mid-10 sec street car he wanted!

It is obvious the the higher boost, RPM, compression/cylinder pressure and alcohol all work together to make more performance, but it also makes it harder to light off the mixture in the combustion chamber.

Our race cars are usually fitted out with high capacity ignition systems for the above reasons, and the slower burning race gas must also have a very good spark for those conditions too.

My point here is the stock GN ignition was very good in its day, but with the performance levels we now have on even street cars, and the age of the original electronic components, the TR6 have given us a way to get to reliable performance levels with a simple and rather inexpensive way to achieve our goals. :)
 
Point taken, well said!! But while deciding on the TR-6 purchase wouldn't a volt booster, tighter plug gap, maybe a hotter plug etc.... help in this area? I am in Florida on pure E-85 with all new components, lines, DW300,tank,etc...mine is acting very much as you describe so any ideas are appreciated as always.
 
I once burned out 2 headlights at the same time. I later fried something in my tr6 (I think Bob said it was the ecu). Since removing the volt booster I've had no problems. A well known engine builder told me if a car comes in with a volt booster it does not leave with it. Sorry didn't mean to get off topic.
 
Belsie the TR6 solves the problem. We have tried all of the solutions you have mentioned and no luck.
 
.....But while deciding on the TR-6 purchase wouldn't a volt booster, tighter plug gap, maybe a hotter plug etc.... help in this area? ................

Let me elaborate further on dealing with this issue.

About 2 years ago after a couple street car conversions, I decided to convert my race car from 116 octane race fuel to e-85 and all that was required was 120# injectors, a different fuel filter and a new tune for the XFI.

The car has a fuel cell with an external 1/2" fuel supply line, and a distributor with a MSD 7AL ignition. This car runs better on e-85 than 116 octane and never any issue!

A year later I converted my 500+ HP street car to e-85 and could not get over 15 psi w/o it breaking up? It has 2 DW in-tank pumps running all the time feeding larger lines. I was convinced it was an ignition issue, and changed the module/coil pack with used ones 4 or 5 times, and I also tried 3 different new modules as well.

During those part changes, the max boost would vary from 10 to 15 psi, and the best unit was a slightly used one I had for years which is why I thought it was an ignition problem?

Of course we did all the items you mentioned with absolutely no improvement? When the TR6 installed, it was shocking as the boost immediately went to 20+!

Since my personal experience, we have seen the same results on 3 local cars, and a few out of town like Reggie stated! :)

As far as the volt booster "issue", all the performance builds we do have WOT output from the alternate at 14+ volts, especially the high performance and track cars.

It seems we have LOTS of items on our cars that are not "factory installed"? :rolleyes:
 
Is the 14 volts with or without a volt booster? Also, Nick, when you put a question mark at the end of most of your sentences, I'm not sure if you are making a statement or asking a question.
 
Good info Nick! This sounds exactly like what's happening to my friends car.
 
I picked up 8 truck coils with brackets at the wrecker for $50 left me 2 spares.
 
stay away from the round-body truck coils with the metal heatsink fins... they do not work properly.

The squareish-body truck coils work fine. (as do all the other LS style coils)

Bob
 
Yes the stock ignition is an old design but we are also fighting another problem. The modules that are currently being made, even the delco units, just do not perform the same as the originals. Most of them dont work properly on the caspers tester. Turns out a design change and the fact that Motorola will no longer make them due to the low volume is a problem. TR6 solves this. Its a great product
 
The problem is not just with the old design of the ignition module, but it is also because the 30 year old individual components have been obsoleted, and they are not duplicates of the original parts.

When I was going through the spark/ignition issue I had been having conversations with John Spina at Casper's and he informed me of this dilemma as he has seen it in many of the products he supplies for other makes as well as our turbo Buicks.

Fortunately we have people like John and Bob Bailey that do the research for us to provide various products so we can keep our cars up with 21st century technology, thanks to you both! :)
 
You can get an LS harness as well and run individual coils if you don't like a waste spark system. I picked up 8 coils at the wrecker for $50 and made a bracket to bolt to my valve covers.
It includes the waste spark harness the LS harness was an up charge for me.
 
Top