To cam or not to cam...........

8UWITH6

Keepin' The Shiny Side Up
Joined
Dec 30, 2001
Hi guys, Im pulling the motor in my ttype on July 26th for a freshening and was wondering if I could get some input from you guys. My car has 120K miles on it and by my sig you can tell its my daily driver. I got it 14 months ago with 100K on it. The day I brought the car home I changed the oil and noticed pieces of timing gear plastic in the oil. Yikes! But 20K later Im finally getting around to freshening the motor. I figured it was time to stop testing my luck and freshen the car up before it broke on me. As of now the plan is to do the following:

Weld drivers side header
Have intake, valve covers, and doghouse powdercoated (pretty points!)
Replace valve springs with 979s from Summit
Replace timing chain and gear with Dynagear from Autozone
New cam button
New oil pickup tube/screen
All new gaskets, rear main, front cover, etc, but not headgaskets
Take a peak at the bearings, but not planning to replace (fingers crossed)
Slam it back together and go another 50K miles
(Im sure Im forgetting some things, but this is basically it).

Now my question is.......how many of you still have stock cams in high mileage cars? I put a Comp Cams 206 kit in my GN, and LOVE it.....buttttttt....I dont have much cash to spend on the daily driver, and the GN needs a tranny......so you get the picture. The car runs very well, but is kinda dead at high rpm (valve springs). Its never missed or popped on me, and the vac is decent. But still some of my TR buddys encourage me to change the cam. What would you do on a "low budget freshening?" I think Ill be just fine leaving the stock camshaft and lifters.......what are your opinions?

As always, THANK YOU.
 
Neil, why take chances on having a problem with a wiped cam lobe...If your stock cam is fine, then freshen up the rod and main bearings, replace all your gaskets, new timing chain, valve springs and call it good...Worry about a new cam when/or if you have to go through the whole motor later on in the future...

Basically the same route you went with on your other car...

IMO...
 
For a DD I would leave the cam alone and enjoy the "streetability" of the OE cam. I would however make certain that the OE cam is in goot shape...ie mic lobes or have it done by a machine shop. But then again, a new cam is pretty cheap. If you do decide to change it, I would recommend the 200-200 or the 206-206 you have now....goot vacume...goot streetability....goot MPG etc...
 
pull it out, mic it, if its got a flat lobe--- dont they all???
then we can do that cam i showed you yesterday--

so the daily driver is going to be faster than the race car? :)
 
So if I replace the bearings....shoulding I have the crank polished? I replaced the rod bearings in my GN when I had the motor out last spring and didnt polish the crank on it. 4500 miles later its still seems fine?? Any opinions on this?

Also. Im scared to death that Ill get this car apart and find other problems. Something like the crank being chewed up or cam bearings toasted again?? I dont have but 4 days to get this thing out, "fixed", and back in as it is my daily driver. And I dont want to have to drive the Grand National to work, because the tranny is really bad. I dont think Ill have any serious problems with it really, but it would be just my luck. I dont see why anything would be seriously wrong with the car, it runs just fine now. Previous owner really never beat on it, and had it from 33K-100K miles.....majority highway miles. I guess Ill find out this weekend. Thanks for the info. Oh yeah, Im ordering bearings just in case.
 
Pull the motor AND tranny out of the T-type. Rebuild motor and install T-type tranny in GN while rebuilding the GN's original tranny. Drive GN until the motor and tranny are done and the T-type is up and going again. There, problem solved. :D

That GN is just begging to get out of the garage!! Drive it!
 
Scrap powder coating for cam !!

Neil, save the powder coating for later. Use that money for a cam
and lifters. Thanks for hooking me up with K & M on my cam purchase. 237.46 total for the whole kit.......
 
Me personally, for what you want to do, stick with the stock cam. These have been 10's and high 11's is not a problem with all else in line. They are reliable and long lasting. You really can go wrong and if staying with stock excpet maybe a chip and turbo, stick with the stocker. Untuned my completely stock engine with max effort 16 position thumbwheel, te44 and msd injectors ran 12.65 at 109. This car was way rich and had an exhaust leak so there was plenty there. Just decided to aim higher now.
 
Originally posted by turbov6joe
Spoken like a true attorney that drives a TR, WRX, and a Diamond Star product:)
Kneel's not getting any sympathy from me on this one. He's got TWO TRs, and right now neither one is running like it should. He needs to let go of that "death grip" he has on his wallet and do it right. :) Of course that's just my opinion.

Thanks for letting the cat out of the bag Joe.:rolleyes: Just as the board was begining to accept me...
 
yeah and for 237 bucks kneel can have a honest 15-20 horses through the power band-
ive spent alot of time on the dyno, and can personally say the stock cam with a stock turbo takes a dive right at 3800 rpm
with a upgraded cam, that dive doesnt happen till much later-

kneel ask yourself this-- how did the butt dyno feel when we put the 206/206 in your GN ?????
THAT pretty much says it right there-

sure that stock cam can go low 10's, but that isnt what kneel is looking for, he wants the most power without hitting the wallet-
 
Welp, after 30 some hours Quick6nKC and I got the car back running at 3am Sunday morning. But, of course, I think I may have a problem. :(

Well, on startup, the car made a bunch of noise and the oil light was on so I shut it off after about 5 seconds. We poked around and after checking everything, I just fired it up again. Another 8-10 seconds of noise and the car quieted down. Fast forward to today, I go out to change the oil......start the car, drive around the block, come back...........clack clack clack clack.......what the hell is it? You cannot hear the noise from above the car, you gotta get your head down below it to notice it. It is not loud at all, but I still dont know what it is. You think I could have already taken out the bearings??????? I drove it 50 miles tonight with no problems, no climbing coolant temps, etc. Please give me some ideas, thanks.......
 
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