Time to change the fuel filter

[Rayk]

It's time to change the fuel filter as it's been about 30,000 miles since the last one. I've used my last Delco filter and wonder if it's OK to use any garden variety filter from the local parts store or, are there filters to stay away from?

 

[Ttype6]

I've used my last Delco filter and wonder if it's OK to use any garden variety filter from the local parts store.

The time the AC Delco filter shines is when your motor is using almost all the fuel that the pump,with good voltage,can put out. If that is where you are,a restrictive filter can mean the difference between getting enough fuel or not.

If your fuel system is keeping up,there's no sense of urgency. Get an AC Delco and change it when you get it. Are you unable to get one where you are? If so,order from Rock Auto or Amazon.There's no rush.

 

[Rayk]

The time the AC Delco filter shines is when your motor is using almost all the fuel that the pump,with good voltage,can put out. If that is where you are,a restrictive filter can mean the difference between getting enough fuel or not.

If your fuel system is keeping up,there's no sense of urgency. Get an AC Delco and change it when you get it. Are you unable to get one where you are? If so,order from Rock Auto or Amazon.There's no rush.

Well, now that you mention it, I am chasing a fuel pressure problem. I have two problems:
1) part throttle knock when accelerating below full throttle but with 10 psi or more boost and,
2) full throttle fuel pressure in 3rd gear is only about 55 psi. That is with initial fuel pressure at 43 PSI and boost at about 22 PSI. So, I should be getting about 65 PSI at max boost and am only getting about 55 PSI.

Funny thing is, I'm not getting any knock or timing retard in 3rd gear. But, I do have the Razr Alky system turned up so, it's probably compensating with more alky.

I began troubleshooting the problem today and found that my hot wire was getting very hot to the touch back at the crimp connectors at the fuel tank and voltage at the pump was about 12.8 (while it was 14.2 at the alternator). So, today I removed the crimp connectors and hard soldered both the ground and +12v wires. Now, I'm getting 13.5 volts back at the pump with the wires nice and cool. It was way too hot to do any serious testing today so, I'll take her up on the interstate this weekend.

But, the transitional (part throttle) knock has me stumped. I'm running a TT alky chip that isn't supposed to have any transitional knock. That's why I was asking about the fuel filter as a possible source of the problem. By the way, my combo below my sig is accurate and I'm still running the 60 lb Motron injectors. Any ideas? I have a Red's XP pump in the tank that's about 17 years old. Could it be going bad from old age?

 

[VIN7]

Hey Ray how have you been?

I chased a part throttle, low boost kr issue for a long time. I mostly noticed it while cruising on the highway and when I would go to pass a car I would get audible knock. I put a catch can inline with the pcv with a check valve from the plenum before the can. It completely eliminated the part throttle kr issue. It catches about a teaspoon of oil each tank of gas. I guess without the can there was always a mist of oil in the intake and would cause the detonation when I would crack the throttle.

Fixed the part throttle audible knock in my supercharged Mustang also.

Take care.

 

[novaderrik]

is the Ac Delco filter better than a Wix or NAPA Gold filter?

 

[Ttype6]

is the Ac Delco filter better than a Wix or NAPA Gold filter?

I don't know.I only know that the Delco is good. It gave me 7 psi when I was chasing a fuel pressure issue and that was when I replaced a new perolator with a new Delco.

 

[Ttype6]

I began troubleshooting the problem today and found that my hot wire was getting very hot to the touch back at the crimp connectors at the fuel tank and voltage at the pump was about 12.8 (while it was 14.2 at the alternator). So, today I removed the crimp connectors and hard soldered both the ground and +12v wires. Now, I'm getting 13.5 volts back at the pump with the wires nice and cool.

I did this same thing years ago after fabricating my own Hotwire set up. Later I had a fuel pressure problem and found a lot of puss where the relay of the Hotwire plugged into the socket. After soldering wires to the lugs on the relay,I still had a problem. I then found that one of my fuse lugs of the hotwire fuse was very black. I purchased a fuse holder rated for 35 amps because it looked very heavy duty and really grabbed a hold of the fuse good. I use a 20 amp fuse in it and have never had a problem since.

I noticed later,when I upgraded to a double pumper,that the power wire was kinked and black just before where I soldered it to the pump connector. I wonder If this was the instigator of the other stuff.

I have every connection soldered.

Check your fuse holder and fuse.You should see the same voltage at the pump as you do at the generator.
Now that you've increased your voltage,you should gain some pressure.