The beast lives...

J-Rod

Member
Joined
May 25, 2001
Well, after waht seems like an eternity, the car is back together and running. After my last go round with the Fel-Pro 1007s we removed the O-Ring grooves and went with a set of Victor head gaskets.

Kudos to Paul @ Automotive Machine Shop for getting this thing all together....

I have been wrenching every night for the last 2 weeks getting it all back together. It hasn't all been easy. When the motor was in, and we were ready to fire the car, I went to go drain the tank, and my Bosch pump was ruined. I then dropped the tank and found it was ruined too. So, ATR overnighted me a pump, and the local roundy-round racers gave me a clean tank out of a soon to be converted Cutlass dirt car.

Got ready to fire the car Friday night, and when we turn the pump on, the stock fuel line and return over the rear end started leaking. So, got up saturday and repalced the last of the old fuel line.

We are breaking the car in on the 40's that were in it, and then we will switch over to the 72#s. The 40# chip is a Thrasher chip with the anti-theft feature which was a really big pain since some things needed for it to work are still to be hooked up. I finally had to switch over to my 40# emission chip so I could fire the car.

I still need to trace down a wire as my fuel pump trigger isn't working, so I had to hot wire the pump during break in.

Once that was done, the car fired and sounded really sweet. I had about 10 minutes of run time on the motor when I noticed my brand new CAS radiator was pouring fluid, so we shut the car off. It seems that one of the tubes was nicked by the core-support going in. So, I need to get that repaired today.

Other than that, I am going to have to put in a new shift cable as the old one got broken putting the motor in. Hopefully in the next day or two we will get the break-in time in, get a few miles on the car and then take it to the dyno. I know Dad is happy to know he can look forward to terrorizing the streets soon.

Here is the Current combo:

3.8L .020 over
JE Pistons
Valley polished and crankcase glyptol'd
Polished and shootpeened stock rods with ARP fastners
Billet Caps
Loveridge Girdle
BGC Intake Upper and Lower
Ported GN1s
Scorpion Rockers
Accufab 70MM TB
ATR RP309G Hyd Roller Cam
ATR Double Pumper
40# Injectors (Soon to be 72#)
ATR Headers
THDP
CAS V2 Intercooler
CAS Radiator
Precision Turbo TA63e with ported fast spool housing
Precision 4000 stall

Everything (bearings, pistons, rods, exhaust, tubo, etc..) Polydyn coated
 
You used a standard Cutlass gas tank? The TR tank has a special baffle not found in the standard G Body tanks. Did the Cutlass have fuel injection? If not... :eek:
 
I used the Cutlass tank. It had a baffle in the tank. But it was not as extensive as the GN tank, it was not plastic, but rather stamped out of sheetmetal.

The baffle in the GN tank is rather extensive.

Is there a problem with run a non-TR gas tank?
 
Originally posted by J-Rod


I used the Cutlass tank.

It had a baffle in the tank.

But it was not as extensive as the GN tank.

It was not plastic, but rather stamped out of sheetmetal.

The baffle in the GN tank is rather extensive.

Is there a problem with run a non-TR gas tank?
===========================================

You really answered your own Q.

Why would GM go to the additional trouble & expense & time to have such a uniquely extensive baffle in the TR tanks?

Think about it... :)
 
Look in the boneyards for a fuel injected G Body. Those tanks will work in the TRs, I've been told. Otherwise you'll have to get a new tank altogether.
 
No, I didn't. If I had, I wouldn't have asked.

I was wondering if there was something specific, or it was one of those "internet lore" things that crops up so often that isn't based in fact, but simply in speculation.

Is there some specific reason to run the TR baffled tank?

I remember that the 1LE Camaros got a special baffled tank that was quite different from a regular Camaro, but both were injected. This tank had extensive baffling. It simply allowed the car to pick up fuel down to less than .5 gallons when the car was being cornered hard.

I was wondering if the same applied to the TR. Is the tank necessary for fuel injection, or does it simply help keep the pump from cavitating under a low fuel situation. Or was htere some specific reason the tank has extra baffling in it.
 
Although I have no idea -

My guess is that it may be to reduce the chance of starvation, at boost - which could grenade the motor.
 
Ok, I can believe that, or to keep the pumps from caviating and being ruined in a low fuel situation.

But, does anyone know for sure if there is a problem?
 
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