tail lights and instrument panel lights not working
- Thread starter billygeg
- Start date
RegalT-type85
New Member
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2010
I take it the headlights are working? I use smartglow fuses, check the one that was blown again, maybe it blew without you knowing. I know its a bigger problemif it keeps blowing but i use a higher amp fuse. Just a little over most is 10 over.
Tommy reynolds
TR's 85
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2006
Check the wires that are located near the parking brake and left side kick panel. My tail lights quit working and there was a brown wire broken. This happened several years ago. I do not remember if it involved the dash lights.
billygeg
Member
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2009
tail lights
Yes, The front lights work but I get no tail lights, console lights or the lights that light up the heater section of the dash and other small areas. I did recheck it after installing a new fuse. The fuse was still good so I have another problem somewhere.
Thanks! Bill
Yes, The front lights work but I get no tail lights, console lights or the lights that light up the heater section of the dash and other small areas. I did recheck it after installing a new fuse. The fuse was still good so I have another problem somewhere.
Thanks! Bill
billygeg
Member
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2009
Tsil lights
I have a light blue wire in the left kick panel that has a wire nut on it that is not connected to anything. Ive been all over this car doing 100's of things. I know its not a good thing to not remember but its possible I could have disconnected it at one point. Cant remember for sure. I have to recheck it! I think it was a alarm wire now that I'm thinking about it. The alarm does tie into the lights to make them flash so maybe that is my problem... I will check that brown wire while I have it open too.
Thanks! Bill
I have a light blue wire in the left kick panel that has a wire nut on it that is not connected to anything. Ive been all over this car doing 100's of things. I know its not a good thing to not remember but its possible I could have disconnected it at one point. Cant remember for sure. I have to recheck it! I think it was a alarm wire now that I'm thinking about it. The alarm does tie into the lights to make them flash so maybe that is my problem... I will check that brown wire while I have it open too.
Thanks! Bill
Time to drag out your factory service manual (FSM) and go to electrical section and look at the schematics and determine what is common with all your problems. That will tell you where to look.
Is this a new problem that just occurred? If so, what have you done to the car recently. That is usually a good clue as to where to look. Most things don't happen all by themselves.
Conrad
Hot Air
Is this a new problem that just occurred? If so, what have you done to the car recently. That is usually a good clue as to where to look. Most things don't happen all by themselves.
Conrad
Hot Air
billygeg
Member
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2009
lights
The last thing I did that I think might possibly affect the tail lights was the ignition switch. The car had a no spark condition so I had to change it. Would the ignition switch have anything to do with the tail lights if something wasnt put back together right?
Thanks! Bill
The last thing I did that I think might possibly affect the tail lights was the ignition switch. The car had a no spark condition so I had to change it. Would the ignition switch have anything to do with the tail lights if something wasnt put back together right?
Thanks! Bill
billygeg
Member
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2009
I know this is a old link but I dropped the project for a while to do other things. my tail lights, console lights, and all the dash lights that are supposed to come on when the lights are turned on, Dont work. The last thing I remember doing before this happened is dropping the steering column to replace the ign switch. The headlights work but the drivers side light is dim. The tail lights dont work but do work with the directionals and brake. Also the passenger side tail lights but does not blink when the directional is on. Ground problem? If so where can I look? Any ideas?
Billy, I think you have two problems. Taillights and directionals can be thrown off with a bad bulb. Check your bulbs and see if you have a bad one. One headlight dim is an indication of a bad ground and may be causing the issues with the tail lights as well. Check to make sure the ground is on in the drivers side of the trunk. It's screwed in and has snap clips. Also make sure your connection between the body harness and the tailight harness is good.
With the headlights, check your screw under your brake booster that connects the headlight harness to the fuse block. These do some loose and can give a bad connection. If thats good, check your grounds up front on the fenders by the header panel.
As far as the underdash lights go, I think you have something loose in your ACC (accessories) circuit. the best way to find it is to check it from the fuse block to the headlight switch to make sure you have power, then check to the HVAC controls, then the grey wire feeding the counsol. I'm betting it's not seeing power from the fuse block.
Did the car get rained on by chance? I'm thinking you got moisture at your fuse block and may be the source of all of your problems ------jeremy
With the headlights, check your screw under your brake booster that connects the headlight harness to the fuse block. These do some loose and can give a bad connection. If thats good, check your grounds up front on the fenders by the header panel.
As far as the underdash lights go, I think you have something loose in your ACC (accessories) circuit. the best way to find it is to check it from the fuse block to the headlight switch to make sure you have power, then check to the HVAC controls, then the grey wire feeding the counsol. I'm betting it's not seeing power from the fuse block.
Did the car get rained on by chance? I'm thinking you got moisture at your fuse block and may be the source of all of your problems ------jeremy
billygeg
Member
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2009
Billy, I think you have two problems. Taillights and directionals can be thrown off with a bad bulb. Check your bulbs and see if you have a bad one. One headlight dim is an indication of a bad ground and may be causing the issues with the tail lights as well. Check to make sure the ground is on in the drivers side of the trunk. It's screwed in and has snap clips. Also make sure your connection between the body harness and the tailight harness is good.
With the headlights, check your screw under your brake booster that connects the headlight harness to the fuse block. These do some loose and can give a bad connection. If thats good, check your grounds up front on the fenders by the header panel.
As far as the underdash lights go, I think you have something loose in your ACC (accessories) circuit. the best way to find it is to check it from the fuse block to the headlight switch to make sure you have power, then check to the HVAC controls, then the grey wire feeding the counsol. I'm betting it's not seeing power from the fuse block.
Did the car get rained on by chance? I'm thinking you got moisture at your fuse block and may be the source of all of your problems ------jeremy
Hey Jeremy
No, No rain. Its been in the garage for a while now. The last thing I did with anything electrical was drop the column to put a new ign switch in. Is it possible I detached something that would cause this? Like I said, The headlights work but the drivers side low beam is dim. The console lights and A/C controller lights do not work, and the tails do not work. They only work with the directionals on and the brake.
Did everything work before you dropped the column?
The only time I had this issue with lights it was a fuse, however you could have done something in the column. I have an expert I can ask this weekend and let you know what he says. We actually had him fix my column due to the fact it's bit tricky if you've never done one before.
The only time I had this issue with lights it was a fuse, however you could have done something in the column. I have an expert I can ask this weekend and let you know what he says. We actually had him fix my column due to the fact it's bit tricky if you've never done one before.
turbobooster
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2002
hey billy check the fuses in ur fuse box that run ur tail lights and instrumental lights with a test light just to make sure its all good if that checks out check the ground wire under the center console which is known to come loose or fray due to the shifter movement if that checks then check with the test light if ur getting power at the scotchlock connection thats right under the radio dash opening the power wire from the bulb socket for the shift indicator will lead u to this scotchlock i had this problem for a while and finally found it a month ago but it was only my interior lights that didnt work do a search on " dash lights not working " and " tail lights not working " and u will get good direction as where to start looking
billygeg
Member
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2009
The lights did all work fine but to be honest I didnt take notice if they did prior to doing the column. I'm a electrician and cant figure this out! How sad is that! lol... I will definitely check the fuses again and the grounds. I know it must be a ground causing the dim headlight. Thanks guys! I will keep you all posted!
billygeg
Member
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2009
OK, Just checked all the fuses. I got power on both sides of every fuse except for one. This one particular fuse has no power on either side. I believe its in spot 4 of the block which is a 5 amp fuse that really doesnt have anything to do with my problem. It powers many things but the only thing that its involved with that is even remotely close is the insrument panel lights. I checked the grounds and they all seem fine. I also checked the connection in the trunk which looks ok but I did not open it. Any other ideas?
Thanks for all your help guys!
Thanks for all your help guys!
billygeg
Member
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2009
just pulled the tail lights off the car to see if there were any pinched wires or blown bulbs. Everything was good. The only thing that was odd is that someone at one point (maybe me in a drunken stuper!) had put a 2 filament bulb in the reverse light section. Thats all I found so far. Gotta give up till tomorrow. I'm thinking it might have something to do with when I dropped the column but no one seems to know for sure. I hate to drop it again for nothing! Its a bit of a PITA!
Ok here it goes...
I recently was involved in something similar...
My instrument panel lights fuse kept blowing after maybe 5 - 10 minutes of use.
The circuit works like this. There is constant power from a fusible link to the headlight switch. There is also an input from the tail lamp fuse. That part of the switch runs the tail lamps and running lights. The output from the headlight switch goes to a solder point where all the parking lights get their power as well all the dimmer switch source power. The dimmer switch output feeds the "inst lps" fuse. I did very extensive checking and found some bare wires behind my fuse panel under the dash as well as where the front headlight and signal light wires go through the core support holes behind the headlights.
There are 2 solder locations one for the output after the headlight switch (brown wires) and the other is the output from the inst lps fuse which is a gray wire. The gray solder location runs all of your dash lights, a/c lights etc.
So I would tackle the first things first. Make sure you have power from the fusible link and the tail lamp fuse to the headlight switch. Then check for power at the brown output from the headlight switch with the switch turned to park lights on. If yes, check for correct dimmer switch operation.
Good luck,
Jerry jr.
P.S. Hope you dont have to tear into your car like I did mine trying to figure this stupid problem out.
I recently was involved in something similar...
My instrument panel lights fuse kept blowing after maybe 5 - 10 minutes of use.
The circuit works like this. There is constant power from a fusible link to the headlight switch. There is also an input from the tail lamp fuse. That part of the switch runs the tail lamps and running lights. The output from the headlight switch goes to a solder point where all the parking lights get their power as well all the dimmer switch source power. The dimmer switch output feeds the "inst lps" fuse. I did very extensive checking and found some bare wires behind my fuse panel under the dash as well as where the front headlight and signal light wires go through the core support holes behind the headlights.
There are 2 solder locations one for the output after the headlight switch (brown wires) and the other is the output from the inst lps fuse which is a gray wire. The gray solder location runs all of your dash lights, a/c lights etc.
So I would tackle the first things first. Make sure you have power from the fusible link and the tail lamp fuse to the headlight switch. Then check for power at the brown output from the headlight switch with the switch turned to park lights on. If yes, check for correct dimmer switch operation.
Good luck,
Jerry jr.
P.S. Hope you dont have to tear into your car like I did mine trying to figure this stupid problem out.
billygeg
Member
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2009
solder points
Thanks Jerry
I appreciate it. I do have power to the headlight switch so I would imagine the fusible link is good otherwise I wouldnt have headlights either being its the main feed no? I have a feeling its the solder joint that you say runs from the switch to the tail lights and instrument panel lights. I do have a 5 amp fuse with no power at all on either side of the terminal which is labeled instrument pnl. I have a feeling these solder points are the culprit! Are they under the dash? If so do you know about where? Directly behind the headlight switch maybe? I may have broken one open when I dropped the column to replace the ign switch.
Thanks again! Bill
I recently was involved in something similar...
My instrument panel lights fuse kept blowing after maybe 5 - 10 minutes of use.
The circuit works like this. There is constant power from a fusible link to the headlight switch. There is also an input from the tail lamp fuse. That part of the switch runs the tail lamps and running lights. The output from the headlight switch goes to a solder point where all the parking lights get their power as well all the dimmer switch source power. The dimmer switch output feeds the "inst lps" fuse. I did very extensive checking and found some bare wires behind my fuse panel under the dash as well as where the front headlight and signal light wires go through the core support holes behind the headlights.
There are 2 solder locations one for the output after the headlight switch (brown wires) and the other is the output from the inst lps fuse which is a gray wire. The gray solder location runs all of your dash lights, a/c lights etc.
So I would tackle the first things first. Make sure you have power from the fusible link and the tail lamp fuse to the headlight switch. Then check for power at the brown output from the headlight switch with the switch turned to park lights on. If yes, check for correct dimmer switch operation.
Good luck,
Jerry jr.
P.S. Hope you dont have to tear into your car like I did mine trying to figure this stupid problem out.
Thanks Jerry
I appreciate it. I do have power to the headlight switch so I would imagine the fusible link is good otherwise I wouldnt have headlights either being its the main feed no? I have a feeling its the solder joint that you say runs from the switch to the tail lights and instrument panel lights. I do have a 5 amp fuse with no power at all on either side of the terminal which is labeled instrument pnl. I have a feeling these solder points are the culprit! Are they under the dash? If so do you know about where? Directly behind the headlight switch maybe? I may have broken one open when I dropped the column to replace the ign switch.
Thanks again! Bill
Ready?.....
Okay well the easiest way to get to them is to take the instrument cluster off. Then proceed to take the cluster mounting plastic piece off the dash. The brown solder joint will be taped up in a big half dollar sized wire bundle. Mine had plastic spaghetti on the big bundle and then tape under that. Believe it or not, my solder joint was taped up with factory duct tape. The gray wire solder is in the same wire bundle. On the left hand side of the column, but before the wires go into the plastic protector behind the instrument panel. It to had duct tape on it. So just start ripping stuff apart looking for duct tape.
Man I had "fun" with these wires. Separated everyone of those wires (both solder joints) and checked for a short to ground. Only thing is, a bulb is continuous through the bulb to ground. So you have to remove the bulb from the socket and then check.
You are an electrician, you can do this a lot easier than I probably could. I felt way more like an electrician after I got through with that nightmare.
Good luck,
Jerry jr.
Okay well the easiest way to get to them is to take the instrument cluster off. Then proceed to take the cluster mounting plastic piece off the dash. The brown solder joint will be taped up in a big half dollar sized wire bundle. Mine had plastic spaghetti on the big bundle and then tape under that. Believe it or not, my solder joint was taped up with factory duct tape. The gray wire solder is in the same wire bundle. On the left hand side of the column, but before the wires go into the plastic protector behind the instrument panel. It to had duct tape on it. So just start ripping stuff apart looking for duct tape.
Man I had "fun"
with these wires. Separated everyone of those wires (both solder joints) and checked for a short to ground. Only thing is, a bulb is continuous through the bulb to ground. So you have to remove the bulb from the socket and then check. You are an electrician, you can do this a lot easier than I probably could. I felt way more like an electrician after I got through with that nightmare.
Good luck,
Jerry jr.
billygeg
Member
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2009
So you are saying, I have to take the bezel off, my dig spedometer out, and then the plastic that the dig speedo mounts too? Oh Boy! Sounds like fun! I will try to get to it this weekend and I will update. Once I find the harness I will put the lights on and sqeeze it first to see if I get any tail lights or Instrument panel lights. Usually when a splice opens its just sitting there 1/32 of an inch away and if you fiddle with it a bit it will probably make contact even for a split second and the lights will come on. I wont rely on that, I will open it either way but it will give me a idea if I am in the right direction. Certainly hope its that! Thanks!
