T&D roller rocker adjustment..... searched but need more info!

[gnx7]

I am putting a set of T&D roller rockers on my engine and have misplaced my previously written down info on adjustment.

Champion fully ported heads with PTE 218R cam is the recipe. .528"+ net lift with the higher ratio rr's........

Here is the info thus far I have gotten from a few various sources:
Get cam on base circle and with left hand move pushrod up/down (not spinning) and tighten allen screw until no more movement (zero lash). Then tighten and additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn for .028 lash. Move to next valve.

My main question is how do I get the cam for each valve on the base circle?

I remember in my instructions to adjust the exhaust valve rocker arm right after the intake valve for that particular cylinder has closed. Or maybe it was vice versa (adjust intake after exhaust has just closed).

A more detailed explanation would be great as I just want to make sure I'm doing it right the 1st time.

Engine is in the car...... but plenty of clearance on both sides to work on it.

Adding alchy injection also at the same time and fabricating a cold air setup out of cheapie ABS piping.

Hope to run in a month some 11.20's@120mph with the stock turbo on a stock shortblock, Champion irons, T&D's, 218R, THTTA 3" DP, 3.5" mandrel bent exhaust, 009's, JJ62mm TB, Spearco FMIC, and ATR headers with custom mounted alternator and no accessories. Weight without driver is 2700lbs and this is on 91 octane and alchy injection. Best run before on homeported irons and stk valves, 208/208 cam, and 2 1/2" DP with 3" nonmandrel bent exhaust was a 11.62@114mph with TC unlocked on 116 octane and 26* chip@21psi.

Thanks guys,

GNX7

 

[bob86gn]

I used a large socket and turned the motor over using the alternator bolt. Turn the motor clockwise. It took me about an hour to do mine. I did mine one at a time and did not worry about getting the motor to TDC. I watched the valve until it started to go down and the other valve was moving up and once it stopped moving I set the lash. Be careful because there is some overlap, you may want to rotate the motor a full rotation or two to make sure they are not loose and that you were actually on the base circle. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Bob

 

[PEACHS]

T&D valve adjustments

This is what i used to get the correct adjustment for my valve train.

TDC on #1 adjust the following valves,

Exhaust 1 - 5- 6
Intake 1- 2 - 3

Next turn crank over 1 revolution, and adjust the following valves,

Exhaust 2 - 3 - 4
Intake 4 - 5- 6

1/4 turn equals .0125
1/2 turn eqauls .025
3/4 turn equals .037
1 turn equals .050

Hope this helps!

 

[gnx7]

eggsellent guys.

Peachs- your explanation was more what I was looking for and helps to clarify and edumacate me about adjusting the rr's.

To infinity and beyond!!!!!

GNX7

 

[tc86gn]

I have the T&D setup and 1/2 turn was more like .050 preload.

 

[Chris Taylor]

The preload depends on the lifters also. I use the T&D's and use Comp lifters. I go with a 1/4 turn or around .0125-.015 preload. The Comp lifters work better with less preload.

 

[bob86gn]

Checked Peaches math and he is correct. There are 20 TPI on the adjustment threads. So 1 revolution = 1/20" = 0.050"

Correct preload on a stock lifter is actually between 1/2 and 3/4 turns. 0.035 preload is 252 degrees.

 

[PEACHS]

T&D Roller Rockers

When I adjusted my T&Ds I set up a dial indicator and was able to see how much lifter preload each turn / revolution equaled to. This was with the intake off and the lifters not pumped up. I tried several different settings and ended up settling on .018. The lifters were Speed Pro rollers with a Billit 212/206. Valve train noise is the same whether .018 or .032. Which is not bad at all! I also used the spacers from ATR for my stock valve covers and the work great! Hope this helps.
Peachs