Is it entirely true that full synthetic oil finds leaks and accelerates them? As well as the burning of oil? Whats some of your experiences with going from regular oil to syn. I'm going to start using Mobil 1 soon. Dont want to have it burn more or leak any more from the rear main. I'm just not sure how true all of that can be.
Synthetic
- Thread starter GrndNatnl
- Start date
Intercooler
New Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
I use Mobil 1 Synthetic in my truck so I can go 5k or a little more on an oil change. No problems with the oil moving down on the dipstick between changes and no drips. This is 80k miles on a 4.3 Vortec S-10.
As for the Buick my thinking is.....change the oil.....change the oil.....change the oil
This can get expensive in a hurry with Mobil 1. I prefer a dino based oil and change it every 1k-2k miles. If you are beating on it hard or racing then even more often. Now if you putt putt around and don't have big injectors or alcohol use Mobil 1 like normal. My .002
BTW- Are we going to have a track rental for MAGNA? Maybe like the end of August when I will be ready Would be a nice tune-up for Buick day!
As for the Buick my thinking is.....change the oil.....change the oil.....change the oil
This can get expensive in a hurry with Mobil 1. I prefer a dino based oil and change it every 1k-2k miles. If you are beating on it hard or racing then even more often. Now if you putt putt around and don't have big injectors or alcohol use Mobil 1 like normal. My .002BTW- Are we going to have a track rental for MAGNA? Maybe like the end of August when I will be ready
Would be a nice tune-up for Buick day!The Mobil 1 wbsite has a page with a title something like:
"Common Myths About Synthetics"...with the answer to your Qs.
Very informative website!
(I posted it earlier on a prior (major) thread about synthetics.)
_________________________________________________
RELATED INFO:
Learned this week that one of the 2003 BMW "M" series cars requires (or void your warranty) the use of 10-60 (ten/sixty) synthetic motor oil. BMW contracted with Castrol to produce the oil. (Porsche requires Mobil 1 0/40 zero/forty).
The only place the oil is available...the BMW dealer...$9.00 per quart. The "M" engines are clearanced somewhat more loose than the family Beemers, and typically consume a quart every 1800 miles, with average street usage.
Interesting!
"Common Myths About Synthetics"...with the answer to your Qs.
Very informative website!
(I posted it earlier on a prior (major) thread about synthetics.)
_________________________________________________
RELATED INFO:
Learned this week that one of the 2003 BMW "M" series cars requires (or void your warranty) the use of 10-60 (ten/sixty) synthetic motor oil. BMW contracted with Castrol to produce the oil. (Porsche requires Mobil 1 0/40 zero/forty).
The only place the oil is available...the BMW dealer...$9.00 per quart. The "M" engines are clearanced somewhat more loose than the family Beemers, and typically consume a quart every 1800 miles, with average street usage.
Interesting!
I too posted some lengthy info about synthetics around 2 weeks ago. I've never used anything but Mobil 1 10W30 or 15W50 in any of my TR's. It's just superior lubrication. Yes, you can go a little longer between changes (normal driving conditions), but don't fall prey to the myth that it can go 7k or so. The biggest need for oil changes is due to contamination/debris that gets in the system and causes it to be unclean. Synthetic does not "break down" as quickly as conventional motor oil, and it also tolerates high temps much better. I typically go 4-5k between changes on my LS1 daily driver, but on the GN, I still change it at 3k or sooner. It's not a daily driver, so the timeframe between changes is a little longer, even with the low mileage.
I've torn down motors over the years that have had conventional oil all their life, and motors that have been strictly synthetic, and the syn motors definitely looked cleaner, and less surface wear. All C5 Corvettes come with Mobil 1 from the factory, so GM obviously likes it too.
If you're worried about it burning more, that is not an affect of the synthetic formula, but rather the oil thickness. If you're motor is semi-loose, or has leaky seals, then the only way to compensate with oil is to run a heavier weight. My previous motor had loose tolerances, so I always used Mobil 1 15W50, and it worked fine.
I've torn down motors over the years that have had conventional oil all their life, and motors that have been strictly synthetic, and the syn motors definitely looked cleaner, and less surface wear. All C5 Corvettes come with Mobil 1 from the factory, so GM obviously likes it too.
If you're worried about it burning more, that is not an affect of the synthetic formula, but rather the oil thickness. If you're motor is semi-loose, or has leaky seals, then the only way to compensate with oil is to run a heavier weight. My previous motor had loose tolerances, so I always used Mobil 1 15W50, and it worked fine.
Thanks fellas. Thats what I was looking to hear.
Would the 15w-50 be ok to use in the winter? Being synthetic, it doesnt gel like regular oil. Temps around here have been getting as cold as single digits at times. I, for some reason, always lean towards the slighly heavier weight oil, and thats one reason.
I'm using plain old GTX 10w-40 now, and last time I checked a little oil it seemed to burn a little. Not much. So 15w50 all year round maybe?
Would the 15w-50 be ok to use in the winter? Being synthetic, it doesnt gel like regular oil. Temps around here have been getting as cold as single digits at times. I, for some reason, always lean towards the slighly heavier weight oil, and thats one reason.
I'm using plain old GTX 10w-40 now, and last time I checked a little oil it seemed to burn a little. Not much. So 15w50 all year round maybe?
http://www.mobil1.com/index.jsp
I would personally be a little leary of that heavy of a weight, if you're in single temp digits. They do have a 0W40, which might be a good choice for you now, and change to the other once the temps get back into the 50+ range. You certainly don't want to go crank the thing up in such cold weather, and hear a bunch of clatter 'til it builds oil pressure, per the heavier weight in the cold. I'd hate to see you hurt it, simply to avoid having to add a quart every so often... right???
I would personally be a little leary of that heavy of a weight, if you're in single temp digits. They do have a 0W40, which might be a good choice for you now, and change to the other once the temps get back into the 50+ range. You certainly don't want to go crank the thing up in such cold weather, and hear a bunch of clatter 'til it builds oil pressure, per the heavier weight in the cold. I'd hate to see you hurt it, simply to avoid having to add a quart every so often... right???
turbo buicks
ESADAH!!!
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2002
just do a quick teoma for synthetic. youll see the pros and cons. HTH
Red Regal T
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
I've never used sythetics and look at me now. I only have 224,000 miles on my TR and runs easy 12s in street trim. When will I ever learn? I have to start reading up on all that info put out by the people who make the synthetic. I know that doesn't make them have a biased view. Don't let this information out.......conventional oil works just as good as synthetic.......at less than half the cost, but if you must run synthetic, have at it.
I only have 224,000 miles on my TR and runs easy 12s in street trim. When will I ever learn? I have to start reading up on all that info put out by the people who make the synthetic. I know that doesn't make them have a biased view. Don't let this information out.......conventional oil works just as good as synthetic.......at less than half the cost, but if you must run synthetic, have at it. Originally posted by Red Regal T
I've never used sythetics and look at me now.
Sheeeeeeesh!!!
Looking at some of these "specs" on the Kendall GT-1, I was under the impression that it had a lot lower flash point then some of the other oils. I would think thats a bad thing for such a high heat powerplant like the Turbo V6.
http://www.atis.net/oil_faq.html
http://www.atis.net/oil_faq.html
Synthetic all the way. To make this discussion more beneficial would be to take a 100 average joes and cloreses. Give 50 a top grade synthetic and 50 a top grade coventional oil. After 5 years of their "normal" driving check engine wear. Also,give them a pamplet telling them when to change oil and what viscosity for what temp. Many folks drive-change oil-do maintenence differntly on their cars. I think youd see alot more damage from dry start up with the conventional oils.
If you plan on keeping your car for a long time,get a magnetic drain plug and use synthetic oil.
I've said this before and i'll say it again. PEOPLE you spend lots of money on race gas-toulene-Alhky to prevent engine and performance problems. 24.00 bucks every 1,500 to 4,000 miles is pretty fricken small.
All being said I'll error on the side of caution.
If you plan on keeping your car for a long time,get a magnetic drain plug and use synthetic oil.
I've said this before and i'll say it again. PEOPLE you spend lots of money on race gas-toulene-Alhky to prevent engine and performance problems. 24.00 bucks every 1,500 to 4,000 miles is pretty fricken small.
All being said I'll error on the side of caution.
I have run conventional Valvoline 10W-30 for the entire life of the car. I change the oil every 2,500 miles and if it goes to to the track, i change it sooner. When i change the oil it almost looks as clean as it did when it came out of the bottle. My Grand National has 160,000 miles on it and STILL has the stock turbo. And it doesn't smoke under WOT either!!! Just my .02.
Scott
87 Grand National
160,000 Miles
Scott
87 Grand National
160,000 Miles
Red Regal T
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Oh yeah, forgot to mention, I use KENDALL and have been for at least 35 years and never lost a motor with it......still working on it, though.
SHEEEEESH!
My .02.......
I am a firm believer of BOTH oils depending on applications. When used in Extreme environments Synthetics will out perform conventional oils hands down. I have personally seen the results on several 1000+hp motors over several years and for a race motor I use syn's. The main bearings on the engines using syn looked brand spanking new after a full year of racing while the bearings from the engines using conv oil ALWAYS had copper showing on most/all of the bearings. This observation was over a 3 year period and the engines were torn down every winter.
I would not spend the $$ for a street car though because I don't beleive that the extra $$ is worth it. On turbo cars the turbo can cook the oil during shut down or extreme environments and thus I feel that turbo cars are better off using syn's.
But do what you feel comfortable with..
ks
I am a firm believer of BOTH oils depending on applications. When used in Extreme environments Synthetics will out perform conventional oils hands down. I have personally seen the results on several 1000+hp motors over several years and for a race motor I use syn's. The main bearings on the engines using syn looked brand spanking new after a full year of racing while the bearings from the engines using conv oil ALWAYS had copper showing on most/all of the bearings. This observation was over a 3 year period and the engines were torn down every winter.
I would not spend the $$ for a street car though because I don't beleive that the extra $$ is worth it. On turbo cars the turbo can cook the oil during shut down or extreme environments and thus I feel that turbo cars are better off using syn's.
But do what you feel comfortable with..
ks
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