Support rod for header panel.
- Thread starter bishir
- Start date
dwall
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
I did some fabrication on my GN header panel in the light bucket area. I used some pieces of dense blister packaging as forms that approximated the shape of the area that needed repair. It was near the mount holes for the head light bezel. I lined the mold with fold & close sand wrap or maybe clear kitchen wrap that I found does not stick to the epoxy after it cures.
I used an old headlight bezel to locate everything in place. It all worked out fine no visible difference once everything was assembled & painted. I used JB Weld. I also used this method to make new ears with mount holes for plastic trim like the vent panel piece under the steering wheel.
Bishir do you need the threaded metal post? I have a badly damaged (multiple breaks) 84 Regal nose. One of those rods came loose when I was trying to take the rusty nut off a WI parts car. Next trip out to the farm I could probably come up with it. I would think you could figure out a way to repair yours. Worth a try anyway.
I used an old headlight bezel to locate everything in place. It all worked out fine no visible difference once everything was assembled & painted. I used JB Weld. I also used this method to make new ears with mount holes for plastic trim like the vent panel piece under the steering wheel.
Bishir do you need the threaded metal post? I have a badly damaged (multiple breaks) 84 Regal nose. One of those rods came loose when I was trying to take the rusty nut off a WI parts car. Next trip out to the farm I could probably come up with it. I would think you could figure out a way to repair yours. Worth a try anyway.
dwall
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
bishir,
Got what you need coming? If not let me know, I picked up my wheels today finally. SNOW twice this week but it was gone this PM.
Anyway, I got a ratchet on the rusty nut but the whole deal just spun in place & I could not find a vice grips to grab the other end of the bolt. I will make a point of picking it up this weekend if you still need it.
Bob
The small one from the end of the header came out EZ as it was in a slot. Not the one you need tho if I understand right.
Got what you need coming? If not let me know, I picked up my wheels today finally. SNOW twice this week but it was gone this PM.
Anyway, I got a ratchet on the rusty nut but the whole deal just spun in place & I could not find a vice grips to grab the other end of the bolt. I will make a point of picking it up this weekend if you still need it.
Bob
The small one from the end of the header came out EZ as it was in a slot. Not the one you need tho if I understand right.
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dwall
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Thanks for letting me know. I would have made a special trip - I know how obsessive I get about crappy litttle fixit ideas. They don't always work but you just about always learn something.
I made more than just a couple repairs with JB! Tail light housing including screw mounting tabs, head light buckets, headlight surrounds, interior plastic panels and mounting tabs. I could be a shill for them I am sure. One of the properties of the stuff is that it slowy sets up & that is important.
So my recommendation is to make a practice run - do a mold, clamps, whatever forms, I think I used fold n close sandwich bag for liner, scrap of thin cardboard and A SCREW! I did my practice using tooth picks for support and/or straightened paper clips. Clean the screw and spray with WD-40 or silicone and let dry. Then go for it.
I used that method to repair the white back & some busted out taillights& tabs. Also repaired cracks & chips in red lenses with some clear JB... they were tinted after. The stuff can be carved, sanded and painted. Whipee ding!
Don't start me talking... on & on & on I'll go.
Good luck.
I made more than just a couple repairs with JB! Tail light housing including screw mounting tabs, head light buckets, headlight surrounds, interior plastic panels and mounting tabs. I could be a shill for them I am sure. One of the properties of the stuff is that it slowy sets up & that is important.
So my recommendation is to make a practice run - do a mold, clamps, whatever forms, I think I used fold n close sandwich bag for liner, scrap of thin cardboard and A SCREW! I did my practice using tooth picks for support and/or straightened paper clips. Clean the screw and spray with WD-40 or silicone and let dry. Then go for it.
- Mold/Supports in place
- MIx epoxy
- Fill the lined form
- Insert screw though cardboard
- Insert the screw in whatever position you want it in (using cardboard collar to maintain support). No bubbles or pockets
- Allow some time for the cast epoxy to harden slightly (it may say something on package i don't remember)- then back the screw out a 1/4 turn.
- Allow another 1/2 hour back the screw out all the way.
- Wala - you have a threaded cast tab (or tower or post)
- Adjust your timing or method on the real deal using what you observed. You'll have a good idea what works.
I used that method to repair the white back & some busted out taillights& tabs. Also repaired cracks & chips in red lenses with some clear JB... they were tinted after. The stuff can be carved, sanded and painted. Whipee ding!
Don't start me talking... on & on & on I'll go.
Good luck.
