Suggestions?

gn84guy

New Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2005
I was driving my car to work the other day and went to merge into traffic so I hit the throttle and the car died...then it wouldnt start at all...so after a tow to my shop I checked to see if I had good fuel pressure and it checked out fine. Tried to turn it over and it sounded like it was trying to start so I put the pedal to the floor and it started, ran like crap, but it started. Now its been starting fine for me the past few days here at the shop, but it still hesitates a little on start-up and the SES light lights up on the dash after a few seconds of running. Im going to try to get my hands on a OBD scanner to see what code its throwing, but I'm wondering if any of you have any idea what could be causing this?
Thanks
 
SES Light

I had a similar problem,but mine wouldn't restart. It ended up being the crank sensor. It came loose and only because I let someone I know that claims to be a mechanic replace my timing chain. Another no start problem I had was a broken wire in the wiring going to the coil pack. I have no idea why it broke.
 
Take a quick look at the harmonic balancer bolt. If it's loose, the balancer shimmies off the end of the crank a little, and doesn't trigger the crank sensor. Then for no apparent reason, they settle back in and work again. The bolt being loose will be the big teller.
 
Take a quick look at the harmonic balancer bolt. If it's loose, the balancer shimmies off the end of the crank a little, and doesn't trigger the crank sensor. Then for no apparent reason, they settle back in and work again. The bolt being loose will be the big teller.

I would think if that bolt was that loose it would have thrown one of the V-belts.

You can access the codes with out a scanner or reader. Just ground out the two upper right terminals on the ALDL connector. I think thats cavity E and F?
 
the MAP sensor only runs the boost gauge.
if you think the MAF sensor is bad, unplug it and try to start it up.
 
I would think if that bolt was that loose it would have thrown one of the V-belts.

You can access the codes with out a scanner or reader. Just ground out the two upper right terminals on the ALDL connector. I think thats cavity E and F?

Oddly, it just skews them a bit. It doesn't have to move much to not engage the crank sensor. It's wierd as hell to have it happen, but it has happened to me. LOL
 
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