Stock front caliper & rotor

PSID6

Active Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2011
Wanting to purchase stock replacement front rotors and calipers just want to know if there are any light weight replacement options
 
Wilwood sells several direct replacements for the OEM front caliper. Hit their product page and scroll down to the D154 floaters and the GM Single Piston Caliper lines.

http://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperListLanding.aspx

You want the variants of each with a 5.46" floating mount that take the D154 pad. All of the aluminum ones are going to save you at least three pounds over the stock iron calipers.
 
Wilwood sells several direct replacements for the OEM front caliper. Hit their product page and scroll down to the D154 floaters and the GM Single Piston Caliper lines.

http://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperListLanding.aspx

You want the variants of each with a 5.46" floating mount that take the D154 pad. All of the aluminum ones are going to save you at least three pounds over the stock iron calipers.

Thanks guys, any suggestions on a disc....weighed mine today and they came in at 19 lbs each!!!
hoping there is a lighter option.
 
Thanks guys, any suggestions on a disc....weighed mine today and they came in at 19 lbs each!!!
hoping there is a lighter option.

Generally, unless you have a parachute, you don't want to reduce the mass of the front rotors.
There may be a combination of aluminum hub and rotor assembly that could save you some weight. You'll need to call Wilwood to work out that parts list.
 
What will your brakes be used for? Street, drag, auto cross?

For stock replacement calipers, Wilwood has some really good choices.

If you currently run power brakes, I would go with the 2.75” Cast Iron Wilwood calipers. Cast Iron will deflect way less than the aluminum alternatives and give you greater clamping force with the larger 2.75 diameter piston versus the single 2.5” diameter or twin 1.62” diameter pistons. The 2.75” big bore Wilwood caliper is slightly less (4.3lb versus 4.6lb) than the single piston aluminum version. The “R” version of the aluminum calipers is only 1lb less than the cast iron, 2.75” diameter piston. I do NOT recommend the twin piston calipers because they will generate substantially lower clamping forces over the 2.5” and 2.75” diameter piston calipers. As a reference, stock replacement, remanufactured calipers are around 6.3lb per caliper.

I looked into aftermarket bolt in lightweight rotors, but there is no lighter bolt in versions. The higher quality rotors from Wilwood, AFCO, etc. MAY offer some weight saving over NEW stock replacements because they are fully machined. Some of the stock replacement, auto parts store, the lower price rockauto.com caliper choices MAY not be fully machined in NON vital and NON used portion of the rotor (mainly the area between the rotor surface and the wheel mating surface).
 
What will your brakes be used for? Street, drag, auto cross?

For stock replacement calipers, Wilwood has some really good choices.

If you currently run power brakes, I would go with the 2.75” Cast Iron Wilwood calipers. Cast Iron will deflect way less than the aluminum alternatives and give you greater clamping force with the larger 2.75 diameter piston versus the single 2.5” diameter or twin 1.62” diameter pistons. The 2.75” big bore Wilwood caliper is slightly less (4.3lb versus 4.6lb) than the single piston aluminum version. The “R” version of the aluminum calipers is only 1lb less than the cast iron, 2.75” diameter piston. I do NOT recommend the twin piston calipers because they will generate substantially lower clamping forces over the 2.5” and 2.75” diameter piston calipers. As a reference, stock replacement, remanufactured calipers are around 6.3lb per caliper.

I looked into aftermarket bolt in lightweight rotors, but there is no lighter bolt in versions. The higher quality rotors from Wilwood, AFCO, etc. MAY offer some weight saving over NEW stock replacements because they are fully machined. Some of the stock replacement, auto parts store, the lower price rockauto.com caliper choices MAY not be fully machined in NON vital and NON used portion of the rotor (mainly the area between the rotor surface and the wheel mating surface).

Thanks for the info, my car is mostly a street strip car but I like to shed weight when ever I need to buy new parts. I upgraded the rear drum brakes with longer shoes and better wheel cylinders and it is currently locking up the rear tires under hard or sudden braking.....scary!!!! I have since gone to a big and little set up on the car and am concerned about the car ending up in the ditch if I don't change the braking situation. I think I need to install a wilwood pro portioning valve to get the rears from locking up!
 
Thanks for the info, my car is mostly a street strip car but I like to shed weight when ever I need to buy new parts. I upgraded the rear drum brakes with longer shoes and better wheel cylinders and it is currently locking up the rear tires under hard or sudden braking.....scary!!!! I have since gone to a big and little set up on the car and am concerned about the car ending up in the ditch if I don't change the braking situation. I think I need to install a wilwood pro portioning valve to get the rears from locking up!

I understand the easy lockup, but at least you can hold the car better on the line the way you have your drum brakes set up. Funny how well drum brakes do with just a little modifications. Only thing drum brakes are bad about is that they cannot dissipate the heat as well as disc brakes. I digress.

An adjustable valve in the rear line should help dial in your rear drum brakes, you really don't have to change out the stock prop valve.
 
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