still overheating

sorry, i do not have a scanmaster. i believe it is over heating and the gauge is correct because the hotter the car gets the worse it sounds. i can hear a ticking noise when it gets over 200. it is not as bad since i had the stock manifold put back on. the previous headers had leaks and it was a lot louder before stock maniflod with no leaks was put back on. the car seems to make plenty of power. going to drive it this morning and see where temp gets when it is not 100 outside. again, if the car failed the block test, there are no gray areas, correct? would it not make sense that bad headgasket could cause these symptoms?
 
Jackie grabos said:
sorry, i do not have a scanmaster. i believe it is over heating and the gauge is correct because the hotter the car gets the worse it sounds. i can hear a ticking noise when it gets over 200. it is not as bad since i had the stock manifold put back on. the previous headers had leaks and it was a lot louder before stock maniflod with no leaks was put back on. the car seems to make plenty of power. going to drive it this morning and see where temp gets when it is not 100 outside. again, if the car failed the block test, there are no gray areas, correct? would it not make sense that bad headgasket could cause these symptoms?
Click to expand...


If you don't want to take the steps and do what's suggested there is not much else we can do.

Check the actual temp with another source.
 
just a thought

I have been watching this thread, and I think something was mentioned about no spring in lower radiator hose. If in fact your lower hose does not have a spring in it I would put one in it. I had a pickup way back that would over heat only at higher speed. The lower radiator hose had no spring and was sucking shut at higher speed. I am pretty sure that someone mentioned this. If you have not tried this; that would be the next thing I would do. Just a thought good luck. Jerry Berger Sr.
 
the car is back from the shop. sorry for late follow up but was displaced by wildfires etc. i was told that my temp gauge was faulty. when they hooked the car up to the computer it was reading in the 180-190 range when showing 225-230 on temp gauge. the car did pass the block test. the car has a slight ticking noise and was told it needed new lifters, rockers and shaft style. he said the stock internals were cheesy. the car has 67k and seems to run strong so i will deal with that when the funds are available. i got a mechancal temp gauge and the reading was the same. the fans come on at 170 so i know it is reading right. contacted a member on here and got some advice. i removed thermostat and replaced the coolant with rmi 25 and water. replaced lower radiator hose and placed spring. i changed to castrol 5w-50 synthetic with zinc added for classic cars and added a bottle of zddp. the car ticking is much less noticable and the car runs about 20 degrees cooler. it does not get above 190 in the morning and driving approx 55-60. i can run 15 lbs of boost and no knock. i drove into houston and back approx 90 miles when it was approx 95 degrees. the car averaged about 210 if driven at 70-80 mph and would get up to 212 if under boost. when slowed down to approx 55-60 the car would drop to 200 degrees. oh, and would get knock around 11 lbs of boost when temp was at 210. i have come to the conclusion that one cannot run a front mount intercooler in texas heat. i am going to look for used stock mount intercooler replacement and a radiator shroud and sell my front mount. hopefully this will solve my problem and is not a difficult swap. thanks for everyones help.
 
Maybe I should worry but my car runs at 200 to 220 all the time . In fresh air it drops down . I did the radiator and water pump but thats where she sits . I would worry if the temp conitnued to climb but it doesnt usually stop at 210 and stays there . I have always heard 220 + be concerned . This only happens on hot hot days
 
Jackie grabos said:
the car is back from the shop. sorry for late follow up but was displaced by wildfires etc. i was told that my temp gauge was faulty. when they hooked the car up to the computer it was reading in the 180-190 range when showing 225-230 on temp gauge. the car did pass the block test. the car has a slight ticking noise and was told it needed new lifters, rockers and shaft style. he said the stock internals were cheesy. the car has 67k and seems to run strong so i will deal with that when the funds are available. i got a mechancal temp gauge and the reading was the same. the fans come on at 170 so i know it is reading right. contacted a member on here and got some advice. i removed thermostat and replaced the coolant with rmi 25 and water. replaced lower radiator hose and placed spring. i changed to castrol 5w-50 synthetic with zinc added for classic cars and added a bottle of zddp. the car ticking is much less noticable and the car runs about 20 degrees cooler. it does not get above 190 in the morning and driving approx 55-60. i can run 15 lbs of boost and no knock. i drove into houston and back approx 90 miles when it was approx 95 degrees. the car averaged about 210 if driven at 70-80 mph and would get up to 212 if under boost. when slowed down to approx 55-60 the car would drop to 200 degrees. oh, and would get knock around 11 lbs of boost when temp was at 210. i have come to the conclusion that one cannot run a front mount intercooler in texas heat. i am going to look for used stock mount intercooler replacement and a radiator shroud and sell my front mount. hopefully this will solve my problem and is not a difficult swap. thanks for everyones help.
Click to expand...

I don't know about the conclusion that you can't run a front mount in TX. I think quite a few guys do. I would think that with a smaller intercooler you will have higher intake temps and possibly more knock. You run 93 octane out there? Have you talked to other Texas guys to see how their cars hold up? Just thinking out loud here, that's all. Best of luck to you either way.

Peter
 
tzque said:
Maybe I should worry but my car runs at 200 to 220 all the time . In fresh air it drops down . I did the radiator and water pump but thats where she sits . I would worry if the temp conitnued to climb but it doesnt usually stop at 210 and stays there . I have always heard 220 + be concerned . This only happens on hot hot days
Click to expand...

Some people say it's fine for our cars to run at that temp and tons of others will tell you that's too high. Personally I'm happy in the 180-190 range.
 
Red C5 said:
I don't know about the conclusion that you can't run a front mount in TX. I think quite a few guys do. I would think that with a smaller intercooler you will have higher intake temps and possibly more knock. You run 93 octane out there? Have you talked to other Texas guys to see how their cars hold up? Just thinking out loud here, that's all. Best of luck to you either way.

Peter
Click to expand...

I'm gonna add that Nick has run a front mount in AZ and it gets quite a bit hotter there in the summer. I don't think you should have as much heat as you do and there has to be a good reason for it.
 
this is who i contacted for advice. why do you always hear that front mount make the cars run hotter? it seems it should run cooler w/out the ic blocking airflow. would this not promote overall cooler engine temps? i know the ic might have higher intake temps. i am wanting to run about 15-16 lbs of boost. is slic w/ duttneck sufficent for this? not looking to break the bank, so was going to try stock with shroud and see if it made a difference. if it does not i will sell this and remount the fmic.
 
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