Sticky "How to" header repair

[Dabigguy]

Since all of out turbo cars will eventually have to repair our headers, wouldn't it be a good idea to have a how to posted?

I'm getting ready to repair mine, what material do you guys use as a gusset and what TIG filler rod?

 

[Just a Six??]

Since all of out turbo cars will eventually have to repair our headers, wouldn't it be a good idea to have a how to posted?

I'm getting ready to repair mine, what material do you guys use as a gusset and what TIG filler rod?

Different methods & they sometimes work well but the skill & knowledge of the welder is also important.

 

[Dabigguy]

I've got a top notch welder that is very knowlegable of different types of metals. I just want to do this once.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

Do what I did for my gs's manifolds. I researched what the metal it was made from was. If I couldn't find it, I'd research the way to find out precisely what it was. Then I'd go to the local college, and find a welding instructor that could give me the best possible advice on that steel. But the main thing to welding our headers is, knowing the exact make up of the steel.

 

[Bruce Urie]

Correct me if I'm correct, but I think the headers in our GNs and Turbo Ts are made of of mild stainless steel, 409 type. They don't hold up too well over a LONG period of time and also have a tendency to rust a little. Wish I had 304 surgical quality stainless steel headers. I KNOW GM went with the 409 because of costs.

Bruce '87 Grand National

 

[Nick Micale]

Correct me if I'm correct, but I think the headers in our GNs and Turbo Ts are made of of mild stainless steel, 409 type. They don't hold up too well over a LONG period of time and also have a tendency to rust a little.....

You are correct, they are 409, but for them to be called stainless is bogus!

Just put a magnet to a stock header to confirm that.

After almost 25 years of heat cycles, poor material, bad design, the stock headers are about done. Welding helps crystalize the 409 even further, so they crack at the repair weld next time.

Using a TIG is a good idea because it usually uses less heat, but as far as an exotic rod material, you are just welding plain old steel.

I am not an expert on headers, but have a lot of experience with the turbo Buicks in helping to develop the TA headers, and other custom built turbo headers for race application, and street exotics like BMW, Mercedes, CTSV, and a few others done at my friend's fab shop.

Here is our most recent Buick headers done in 321 stainless for my race car.

 

[scot w.]

We have been re-welding the stock headers on these cars for years and have not had one single person come back because it cracked again. We do it right the first time and your good to go..

Some headers Iv'e re-welded were welded up 5 times and look like complete Hell. So what I usually do is grind all that crap off and completely start over and the outcome is much nicer and will actually last.


Scot W.

 

[Dreamcar86]

It also helps to put a tab between the pipes in order to prevent flexing which will break the weld. Here is a picture of mine in post #7.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick-tech/313031-header-repair.html

 

[scojack_2001]

I talked to two different welders today and they said they could fix mine.

I need to know exactly what kind of metal Im dealing with here.

My question is will the stainless (?) hold up to being put in a hot tank? My buddy works at a machine shop and said if the cooker is on he'd drop it in for me. I know that'd clean the header real good but would it hurt it?

And I can get a spare head to bolt the header to for when it gets welded up.

Can I even out the flange with a belt sander or is a more precise job needed?

I really want a set of TA headers, I just cant afford them yet... Maybe this winter I might be able to.

 

[RegalT-type85]

My welder cut my flanges back in 06, he owned a GN told me that was a TRICK to never have them crack again. Something to do with heat,expanding etc. So might want to ask for them to get cut, they is about 1cm or 2 cut fomr each flange between each port if that makes sense.