Starting a GN that has not moved in years

TommyV8

Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2004
I am going to attempt to start my dad's '87 GN that has been sitting in his garage for probably two years or so. I am going to change the battery and oil and put some fresh gas in it. Anything else I need to do before attempting to fire up a long-neglected TB?
 
PULL THE PLUGS/SHOOT SOME MARVEL MYSTERY OIL IN THE CYLINDERS/PULL CAM SENSOR AND PRIME THE OIL PUMP AND TURN ENG BY HAND FIRST.
 
x2 on the Marvel Mystery Oil but I don't think you'll need to prime it. I'd disconnect the orange ECM wire at the battery and crank it a few times for a few seconds. Mine sat for 4 years without being cranked and it started right up after I put in a new battery. Didn't lose prime.
 
Good advise mentioned.
Another is go over the wire harness with a fine tooth comb for any signs or vermin chewing. Check over under the wiper motor are where fuse box plugs in they like to nest in there.
 
Thanks for the help guys! :D I 'll check back in later to let you know how it goes, probably in about two weeks or so.
 
Today I changed the oil but not the fuel filter yet as I wasn't planning to start it anyway (maybe in a week or two). I did put a charged battery in it and turned the key to the on position. Good news: the fuel pump comes on and the engine turns over (I disconnected the coil packs to keep it from starting). Bad news: the fuel gauge is reading half full. So I have to get that old gas out if there, right? :( How do I do that, just siphon it out somehow and then dump in fresh gas? Has anyone here ever done that, because I never have and I don't really know how to go about it. Any help is much appreciated! :D
 
You can get the gas out fairly easy but you'll need to prep for it. The fuel port on the end of the fuel rail has a schraeder valve in it. Grab a rag and hold over the end while you press in on it. Gas will spurt but it should depressurize rather quickly. Next remove the schraeder valve with a valve stem tool like for a bicycle innertube. Then slip an appropriately sized hose (1/2" should work) over the end and clamp it tightly with a hose clamp (clear tubing from the home store is nice). Next find the black connector/white wire dangling behind the alternator. This is the fuel pump test lead. You need to put 12 volt power to this. The fuel pump will run continuously as long as you supply power. Drain your tank, watch the line for alot of bubbles, when the bubbles come, stop pumping or risk burning up the pump. Then simply remove the hose, reinstall the schraeder valve and add fresh gas to the tank. A few key cycles and it will reprime with fresh gas.
 
I would prime the oil pump and turn the crank over by hand a few times just to make sure you get as much oil circulating as possible. A dry start, even for a few seconds can do plenty of damage.
 
You can easily siphon the tank down from the fuel filler. I've done this in the past. This way you don't send any sediment through the fuel filters. Try to find about a 8-10' length of 3/8" clear tubing for your syphon hose. Home Depot usually has this type of tubing. The clear hose allows you to see the fuel in the tubing & prevents you from eating any. Yuck! Sounds like you will need 2 five gallon fuel cans to empty your main tank. You could always poor it into some of your running vehicles as long as there is enough good fuel to dilute the old.

When you change the oil filter make sure you fill it up with clean oil. You can usually fill it up & let it sit for a few minutes until the oil level goes down as it absorbs, then fill it again a time or two. This will prevent dry run as the filter fills.

Good luck & please post up some pics along with your results.

~JM~
 
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