Stall speed for a TA-60 Turbo
- Thread starter wordy1
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2005
what differences will I notice in everyday driving? And will it put too much stress on the trans? The car (1984 Monte Carlo SS) right now drives like the stock 305 V8 it had originally for normal driving, and then goes like mad once it starts to get some boost.
youll enter boost faster.it will cause the engine and turbo to respond faster to you putting your foot to the floor.you wont be able to count to 5 like you can now before the car gets up and goes.our 3200 stall lockup will work well with that on the street.
Car ran an 11.03 quarter (adj.) @ 122.68 MPH with 110 octane and slicks with the TA-61 turbo, I am expecting it to run in the mid 11's with the TA-60 and to me it is much more streetable than the TA-61. With street tires and pump gas it runs 12.5 all day long. ET's are not my biggest concern. 12.5's is plenty fast for me, I am looking for better response from lower RPM's without the worry of damaging my trans and without sacrificing gas milage.
The trans has been rebuilt along with the addition of a B&M shift kit and a trans cooler. Currently, the car is capable of 550 HP and 650 ft/lbs. rear wheel horsepower with 20lbs. of boost and 110 octane. Considering that it ran an 11 flat with nearly the same set-up I am not too convinced of the benefits of adding a higher stall for better ET's as the stock Monte brakes will barely hold the car now off the line. The D5 I have has been upgraded considerably and stalls at a true 2400.
Is adding the S-10 rear wheel cylinders along with a proportioning valve a MUST if I decide to go with a higher stall? And if I decide to go with the 1998-up Blazer 2WD front brake set-up will I even need a proportioning valve for the rear wheel cylinders? And what "soft shoes" should I use for the rear brakes? I have been told the stock rear brake shoes are made of hard materials and that I need to go with a softer brake shoe in the rear.
BTW, as stated earlier, the trans is the BRF code 200R4, what is the difference and is there any advantage to having this trans? And what spline is the GN BRF 2004r, 27?
The trans has been rebuilt along with the addition of a B&M shift kit and a trans cooler. Currently, the car is capable of 550 HP and 650 ft/lbs. rear wheel horsepower with 20lbs. of boost and 110 octane. Considering that it ran an 11 flat with nearly the same set-up I am not too convinced of the benefits of adding a higher stall for better ET's as the stock Monte brakes will barely hold the car now off the line. The D5 I have has been upgraded considerably and stalls at a true 2400.
Is adding the S-10 rear wheel cylinders along with a proportioning valve a MUST if I decide to go with a higher stall? And if I decide to go with the 1998-up Blazer 2WD front brake set-up will I even need a proportioning valve for the rear wheel cylinders? And what "soft shoes" should I use for the rear brakes? I have been told the stock rear brake shoes are made of hard materials and that I need to go with a softer brake shoe in the rear.
BTW, as stated earlier, the trans is the BRF code 200R4, what is the difference and is there any advantage to having this trans? And what spline is the GN BRF 2004r, 27?
BRF is the trans of choice if running a 200 R4 in any sort of turbo buick driven vehicle. It has the best valve body, servos, etc from the factory and is the only trans capable of holding up to the power/torque of the turbo 3.8 from the factory. A good BRF core is still fairly valuable because of its unique internals.
The rear shoes/wheel cylinders will not be necessary with a higher stall converter. The car will stall at a higher RPM as a function of the converters vane pitch and other variables, not as a function of the brake pressure.
If your car overpowers the rear brakes you've met the stall capacity of the converter (if brakes are properly operating).
"IF" you change your rear brakes (shoes and cylinders) you will find it harder to perform burnouts without a line-lock hydraulic device and will warp or overheat your rear brakes when doing burnouts if you are not careful. I don't recommend the whole s-10 cylinder swap because I dont really care to require a line-lock. A stock D5 will usually have a stall speed of 2200-2400 as it left the factory, so I dont know how reworked yours actually is.
Any nice lockup converter in the 3000 RPM stall range should make a noticeable improvement in spool up time with your new turbo and you should be able to achieve at least 2800 RPM at the line without any brake work.
The rear shoes/wheel cylinders will not be necessary with a higher stall converter. The car will stall at a higher RPM as a function of the converters vane pitch and other variables, not as a function of the brake pressure.
If your car overpowers the rear brakes you've met the stall capacity of the converter (if brakes are properly operating).
"IF" you change your rear brakes (shoes and cylinders) you will find it harder to perform burnouts without a line-lock hydraulic device and will warp or overheat your rear brakes when doing burnouts if you are not careful. I don't recommend the whole s-10 cylinder swap because I dont really care to require a line-lock. A stock D5 will usually have a stall speed of 2200-2400 as it left the factory, so I dont know how reworked yours actually is.
Any nice lockup converter in the 3000 RPM stall range should make a noticeable improvement in spool up time with your new turbo and you should be able to achieve at least 2800 RPM at the line without any brake work.
TURBOPOWERED68
David
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2006
i am also running a TE60 and i just went from stock D-5 to a L/U 9.5 3000 stall . During regular driving you ALMOST cant tell it has a 3000 stall but when you step into it HOLD on its a totally deferent car and a hell of a lot more fun. i got my converter from this guy Turbo Buick Performance
