So close

outatime86

Active Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2018
Wanted to give a big thank you to all who have helped me out this past year in getting my car back running. It's been 18 years since on the road. Here are the updates.

Small list of what's left to do. Rear wheel cylinders, install and modify dual 3" cat back it's a pypes system but will change to flowmaster single chamber mufflers, install trans cooler, and have Norbs do my tuning FAST B2B. New alky kit bought but to be installed once running okay.

Things done; had to pull and rebuild the trans with billet servo and new clutches n steels n hardened steel input shaft. Installed all new rear suspension - hotchkis adj uppers, solid lowers, braces from lower to uppers, 1.5" solid rear sway bar. Dropped fuel tank changed the sock on the 340 hot wired pump, installed 120lb low impedance injectors, new fuel filter. All new shock bushings for my rancho rs9000. New hotchkis front sway bar. Custom Garrett core FMIC, built my own 3" piping. New tires front 225 16 and 275 16 drag radials on custom made 16" riken wheels, 16x8 and 16x9.5. New rubber body bushings installed. New wildwood brakes up front. New hydroboost system. 4" home custom made intake to feed the t66 dbb. Old converter 3600 nlu still works good. 3.5" dented for clearance DP. Fbody radiator for purging n flushing all the shit out, will reinstall becool once crap is flushed out.

Thank you to all who have answered my calls for help and questions. The build is in dedication to my pops who passed last year.
 
I'll take some this weekend. Once the grill n front bumper are back on and I give its first wash in 18 years.
 
No chance for pics this weekend.

Drove it for the 1st time in 18 years!


Needs tuning, couldn't get more then 88% tps according to FAST. Also wouldnt build more the 6lbs of boost. Wastegate is a new HD version, directly tapped to turbo no boost controller. Need to install the trans cooler, temp got up to 210 after a 2 mile cruise. And holly crap the Art Carr 3600nlu stall is high, coupled with 373 gears it heats up that trans. Got to send Norbs the data logs.

But the brakes work great! Hydroboost works very well. S10 wheel cylinders work well also. New rubber body bushings made the car ride very smooth!

Next is installing exhaust n that trans cooler.
 
Does anyone have suggestions on how to figure out the boost issue?

I was told to first unplug the internal wastegates vacuum line then cap the turbo vacuum port and drive around, if boost builds higher the 6lbs then - its a wastegate issue or puck sealing issue. The wastegate is a new HD version and shouldn't open until 17-18lbs.

Was thinking about buying a TA performance 3.5" downpipe to replace my 3.5" china.

Thoughts?

Thank you in advance.
 
Wastegate puck not sealing? Any other exhaust leaks? Way to rich?

If you run it with the vacuum to the wastegate disconnected (be careful as there there will be no boost control) and you don't see more than 6# then pull the downpipe and look to see if you can see if the puck is sealing and that it swings without binding.
 
Wastegate puck not sealing? Any other exhaust leaks? Way to rich?

If you run it with the vacuum to the wastegate disconnected (be careful as there there will be no boost control) and you don't see more than 6# then pull the downpipe and look to see if you can see if the puck is sealing and that it swings without binding.
Roger that. As it is now, I have no controller anyways, was going to install one after its building around then 14-15 lbs, with a safe tune, only running 91 gas.

Let's say the puck isnt sealing right would that mean time for a TA DP? This china DP was a PITA had to dent it big time to clear the frame.

It's just the DP no exhaust so its loud as fawk. Next time I'll disconnect the wastegate, and use a piece of shop towel to check the manifolds for leaks on start up before it gets hot.
 
Roger that. As it is now, I have no controller anyways, was going to install one after its building around then 14-15 lbs, with a safe tune, only running 91 gas.

Let's say the puck isnt sealing right would that mean time for a TA DP? This china DP was a PITA had to dent it big time to clear the frame.

It's just the DP no exhaust so its loud as fawk. Next time I'll disconnect the wastegate, and use a piece of shop towel to check the manifolds for leaks on start up before it gets hot.
If the puck isn't sealing, it could be the puck on the DP or the hole is too big on the turbo (or offset a bit from where the puck was; when I had that style downpipe it was not centered) I would say get the TA, even on my car lowered how low it is it cleared no dents.

1661893019136.png

if you look closely you can see where the puck sealed.
 
With the advice I've been told, I'm ditching my china DP and bought a 3.5" TA performance DP. This weekend will do the trans cooler, then next weekend will install the DP and new exhaust.
 
Mark what do you have for a dump tube or cat? Will it fit with the new downpipe? Something to look at.
 
Does anyone have suggestions on how to figure out the boost issue?

I was told to first unplug the internal wastegates vacuum line then cap the turbo vacuum port and drive around, if boost builds higher the 6lbs then - its a wastegate issue or puck sealing issue. The wastegate is a new HD version and shouldn't open until 17-18lbs.

Was thinking about buying a TA performance 3.5" downpipe to replace my 3.5" china.

Thoughts?

Thank you in advance.

Something to verify with the 3.5” china before complete removal. As mentioned take the DP off the turbo, tape the puck open and smear grease on it, reassemble DP to turbo, slap the puck closed several times, remove the DP and check the pattern.
This can be done with the 3.5” TA upon install as well.

Regulated shop air can be connected to the wastegate actuator to check opening pressure as well as overall wastegate function.

I opened up the holes a bit on my 3.5” TA DP for a little up and down movement.
I loosened the turbo to header bolts to get more frame clearance.
 
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Mark what do you have for a dump tube or cat? Will it fit with the new downpipe? Something to look at.
Not gonna run a cat, I got a 3.5" test pipe, putting a flex tube from dp to test pipe, theb going to put the pypes dual 3" exhaust modified for 3" 10 series single chamber muffs.

Fooled around with the wastegate a little and was able to get 10psi before I backed out. Waiting until cooler n exhaust are done so Norbs can do more tuning.

Hope to see you in October!!
 
Something to verify with the 3.5” china before complete removal. As mentioned take the DP off the turbo, tape the puck open and smear grease on it, reassemble DP to turbo, slap the puck closed several times, remove the DP and check the pattern.
This can be done with the 3.5” TA upon install as well.

Regulated shop air can be connected to the wastegate actuator to check opening pressure as well as overall wastegate function.

I opened up the holes a bit on my 3.5” TA DP for a little up and down movement.
I loosened the turbo to header bolts to get more frame clearance.
Roger that thank you for that advice. Hoping to see a carbon ring around the ex housing wastegate hole, if I don't then I'll do the grease and verify. Might just wait for the ta dp and verify it then. I had to open up the holes on the China dp so I could tilt it up a bit and get clearance, I'm wondering if the tilt threw the puck alignment out?

For sale soon, used china dp 3.5" dented to hell for clearance. $40 some beer money.
 
Installed trans cooler up front under air dams. My buddy wasnt stooked the derale cooler didn't come with good electrical. So we added a relay and wired in a fuse. Yesterday was 103 where I was at, and after install the trans temp didnt get above 180!

Also found my radiator cap was leaking so changed that to a good quality one. Got most of the air bubbles out, water is still a very light brwn color but way better then the mud and gunk that has been flushed out. F body fan anand dual ram charger fans kept temps just around 180 as well, fans work very well.

Next weekend hoping to attack the exhaust.
 
Grease will just make a mess, you won't get a good read from it.

Use some yellow gear marking paint on the puck, available on Amazon and several other outlets for $14-16.

But that's just me.
 
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got a pic of the engine bay, still need to clean up some wiring and clean the tires/wheels. Next weekend is the exhaust! Doing a 3."5 TA DP/test pipe into a Pypes dual 3" with Flowmaster 10 series single chamber. No cat, waiting on my Montana Plates :)


here is a pic of rear wheel, riken 16x9.5 custom offset cut the center out and rewelded it/powder coated/polished
sitting on a toyo proxes tq drag radial 275/45/16
 
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