Smokin the Buick

M

Mr. Upholsterer

Smoking the Buick
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Hi Guys , Could use a little advice...I just read about these Aluminum heads for thhttp://www.weberracing.net/p643/Champion-GN1-Buick-V6-8-Bolt-Aluminum-Heads/product_info.htmle buick They are Champion GN1 A1 heads....Anybody know if they are worth the $1700 bucks.... also Comp Cam makes a Roller cam Solid for the GN with a .581 Lift and 224 Duration and 110 LSA ( what ever that is ) When they say solid roller cam does that mean you can use regular solid lifters on it ?? I have some forged Jahns pistons to throw in this motor too... Would this be overkill for a hot air setup with a 4barrel on it ?? :cool:
 
Way to big Vince. These engines respond to lower lift better than high. Go to full throttle and you can get a hydrolic roller kit and you'll be happier. A solid lifter roller is just that. It's a roller with no give and you have to make provisions for a spring loaded lifter retainer. Lots of work and expense. Just not workth it IMO.

As far as the aluminum head go, you really don't need them with the dreaw through system. You'll never make enough power for it to be worth the expense.
 
charlief1 said:
Way to big Vince. These engines respond to lower lift better than high. Go to full throttle and you can get a hydrolic roller kit and you'll be happier. A solid lifter roller is just that. It's a roller with no give and you have to make provisions for a spring loaded lifter retainer. Lots of work and expense. Just not workth it IMO.

As far as the aluminum head go, you really don't need them with the dreaw through system. You'll never make enough power for it to be worth the expense.
Click to expand...

Charlie... whats a DREAW through system, sorry, I had to be "that guy."
 
Charlie...Thanks for the input...Just the thought of eakkking out 1700 bucks for those heads was making me nervous ... Could you give me some numbers on the ideal cam for this hot air carbed engine... Like Lift and duration ??
 
I think I posted one for you in another thread Vince. I've got one more that's a little more radical but it would require you to do a lot of checks to make sure everything clears right or you will hit the pistons with the valves. The 204/214 is good and if you check full throttle speed he's got some nice roller grinds as kits. The 204/214 is a flat tappet though and you will need to add some ZDDP to the oil so you don't wipe the cam.
 
Charlie...yes I remember you suggestion on that older thread about the 214...I wasn't sure if you were refering to duration.... What about lift ?? Should I try to get it about a half an inch ??
 
The 204/214 refers to the .050 lift point of the cam. The intake has about .460 lift and the exhaust has a .479 lift. You will need to clearance the guides and check piston clearance to use it untlss you don't cut the block and heads. Going over .500 will cause you more issues and you'll need to get custom pistons made for it.

The 204/214 cam will also load the exhaust and help spool the turbo up a little easier as well as give you a decent idle.
 
Did you say you had one of these ?? Who makes it ?? I guess you have to use new Hydralic lifters when installing it ..
 
Charlie, Thanks for the links I Picked up the Pro Stock one...How about Lifters...Should those anti Pump up lifters work...and what about Springs...Would the stock springs work or would they bind up.. and Would I have to go to Chrome molly push rods ?? Keep the Stock Rocker arms or go to steel rockers ?? Don't forget here I won't be racing this...Just want a hot street machine. Also what are the chances of the rocker arm shafts pulling out...are they pressed in pretty good or would I have to go to threaded ones ...if they are even available...??:cool:
 
Mr. Upholsterer said:
Charlie, Thanks for the links I Picked up the Pro Stock one...How about Lifters...Should those anti Pump up lifters work...and what about Springs...Would the stock springs work or would they bind up.. and Would I have to go to Chrome molly push rods ?? Keep the Stock Rocker arms or go to steel rockers ?? Don't forget here I won't be racing this...Just want a hot street machine. Also what are the chances of the rocker arm shafts pulling out...are they pressed in pretty good or would I have to go to threaded ones ...if they are even available...??:cool:
Click to expand...

Get some sprins with a seat pressure of about 90-95 lbs on the seat. That should be all you need.

As far as the rockers, this is a Buick V6 isn't it? It has shaft rockers Vince. You can't get steel rollers for it, only aluminum ones with shafts. They cost around $600 if you want to spend the cash, but the stockers should be fine if you get some HD shafts. I think TA performance sells them.
 
That's really low spring pressure, Do you think that maybe the stock springs would work?? I remember I was running 550 lbs spring pressure( I Think) on my old Pontiac...and yes I did pull all the rocker studs out.. My brain is still thinking Chevy and Pontiac.. I noticed this cam does not have a front cam gear on it...I am trying to remember when I was working the Buick and putting in a double roller chain....That cam gear looked like it was actually part of the cam ?? How do you get it off and on to the new cam ? I guess you install the cam straight up right ?? not advanced or retarted ??:cool: Is there any way to check the spring pressure while the springs are still on the motor ??
 
That's on the seat with a closed valve Vince. Stock is much lower than that. You can get the right springs from Kirban performance. Don't advance or retard the cam more than 2 degrees. Turbo engines work a little different than NA. The timing set bolts to the cam and slides on the crank just like any other GM engine.
 
OK...sounds good...somehow I thought that gear was actually welded to the cam.. What kind of lifters to use... New stock ones would work ?...Probably never go past 6000 RPm... Any idea how much HP this thing should make with about 8 lbs of boost ?? :cool:
 
You probibly wont go over 5500 and at 8 PSI you will have more torque than HP. These little engines make tons of torque for their size. You should be at 250 to 300 if you up it to 12 PSI, or maybe more.
 
Forged pistons are a very good idea Vince. It will keep the engine alive in the long run if you have everything in tune. If not then you'll blow the bottom end out of it.
 
Looks like I will have to pull the motor and get it bored .020 for those pistons...any special rings you would suggest...should probably chamfer those oil holes in the crank too.. Any special tricks I should while the block is being worked on.
 
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