Shifting Problems

Justa6MB

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Nov 14, 2011
Thought I'd better start a new thread looking for help. I've got shifting issues. Rebuilt trans from reputable builder. No WOT shift at all, hits rev limiter and that's it. It also felt like it was shifting early - like I accidentally put in a CVT. Checked the governor and the spring is riveted and in place. Backed off the TVC 1 click, fresh fuel and alcohol, upped the boost and took it out. Still no shift, tried it a couple times and now it won't shift at light throttle till it hits 3,500 - 4,000 rpm. I have to think it's in the valve body? Can anybody give me some ideas of what I could check on my own?
 
When you come to a stop at a light or other, does it down shift to first?
I would pull the cable connector off the throttle arm and give it some sharp pulls. This might clear some debris that might be caught in the tv setup in the vb.
I'm guessing you checked the fluid level and it is good?
 
Yes it does shift back into 1st when I stop. And yes the fluid has been checked. I'm nervous about making a pull with the TV unhooked or backed off. How much will the bands take before glazing or scorching?
 
Could some kind of blockage in the lines or coolers cause anything like this? Supposedly they were flushed, but they are now pushing 30 years old. I believe they're ok but have been "tweaked" to route to the cooler?
 
No driving with unhooked. With engine running. Unhook cable, pull cable sharply several times to cycle the tv in the vb, reattach cable to throttle body. Again , no driving with tv unhooked.

When you had the pan off checking the gov, did you look at the tv and make sure it was pulling when the throttle was opened?
 
I'm guessing you have contacted the builder? What was their solution? Is this a brf vb/gov combo?
 
Ok sharp pulls of the cable - got it lol... The builder asked me to back off the tv cable a few more clicks and see if it changes at all. But I'm very leary of that cuz the last trans I got developed a band issue right away. I will try cycling the tv cable with the engine running and report back. I'm not exactly sure what vb and gov is in there. But I can drop the pan and see what's written on it. I still have the original brf Trans on the shelf. If all else fails would It work to install the brf vb and gov in the stage 2 Trans? If so it is non lock up so what mods would need to be done. I've had
3 trannys in this car since and nine seemed to shift as consistent and firm as the stick brf.
 
Oh my. What does the tag on the trans say(rear pass side metal tag). If it isn't a matches vb/gov set I can see why it doesn't shift. Unless you really know what you are doing trying to mix and match em doesn't usually work out.
Might have to go with the brf vb and gov to get It working. Not sure. I am using an AA out of a Cadillac with some mods but an OD or some of the other loPerf ones are hard to get the shift points up without some work.
 
[QUOTE=" I've had 3 trannys in this car since and nine seemed to shift as consistent and firm as the stick brf.[/QUOTE]

Oops...posting on phone... "none" seemed to shift as consistent and firm as the "stock" brf :)
 
This isn't a Th350 that anyone with a starter set of tools and some want to can overhaul successfully. This forum is littered with, "I had my local 'race'transmission shop overhaul it" and now it doesn't work right. There is a lot to this trans and I'm convinced the th200 is the same. They have a bad reputation as you cant just assemble it and it works. It is like a Buick engine, the builder actually has to know how to measure and adjust clearances. If this isn't right it doesn't shift well, and sometimes not at all. worst of all the trans or engine doesn't last long and the owner gets discouraged.
 
Was able to spend some time on the car today. After warming it up and checking fluid levels again, I gave the tv cable a few sharp tugs while it was idling. I then took it out for a drive and made some discoveries. The car starts in 1st, but won't shift out of 1st until about 4,000. However it shifts right into 3rd. If I pull it back into 2nd there's nothing there - free wheeling - until I hit 4,000. Then it's right there again and no slippage. I matted it and the tires broke loose. If I take off with the shifter in 2nd gear it won't shift at all. What do you think is happening?
 
Any chance it could be in the valve body? I was still contemplating swapping out the vb and gov with the BR I have.
 
There is a chance, but without any second gear I would suspect the pin or the band broke.
 
The strange part is that 2nd comes to life when I hit 4,000 rpm. And it seems to be all there. Slowly bring it up, 2nd engages, and if you mat it it breaks the tires loose at 40mph +.
 
Ok, tell me this. On my stock brf trans I've got 3 check balls between the vb and the plate, and 8 between the plate and the trans. On the stage II I've only got 1 between the vb and the plate, and 4 between the plate and the trans. I realize you can leave out some but something tells me 1 aint enough between the vb and plate .
 

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Different builders do it differently. Lots of ways to skin a cat.
Best I know is to try different balls on and out between trans fluid baths and see what works. I put em all back in as I didn't know what to expect with mine.
 
Here's what I would do
1. Speak with the builder about this issue. If its a well built trans by a reputable builder, they should be able to help you. If you can't get anywhere with that.
2. Get a pressure gauge on it and see what pressures you have throughout the range (no TV and full TV)
3. Set the TV by the method shown on Lonnies site. Pan off and measure accurately as his instructions say.
http://www.extremeautomatics.com/assets/pdf/2004R_Transmission_Install.pdf

Scroll down to TV adjustment and read carefully. It's handy having a buddy help.
 
Ok thanks guys. I have checked the line pressures and they were all 100%. Due to our short season up here I was really hoping it was something I could fix on my own. But I'll contact the builder. I'm sure they'll stand behind their work.
 
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