shifter handle problem

M

Masher

New Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2004
My shift handle has issues. First, the button has to be pushed really far in to operate. It also makes a nice crunching noise when pushed, and when shifting. It also seems to be wobbly, as if inside the T, the pieces are broken. I have replaced the T once years ago, I think from Kirban. It came with the T, button, chrome ring, and U clip, maybe I purchased some of it seperate. When I did the replacement, I remember the white plastic piece that sticks up from the chrome stalk had a worn spot right on top. I put a little hd silicone lube on it to prevent further wear.

To fix these issues, I'm guessing inside the T are cracked broken parts, which I don't want to remove until I have a replacement. Poston sells a "complete shifter handle" PECSH1115, but says the slide is not included, and a "shift lever rod extension" MC22205. The extension will solve the worn white plastic part, but not getting the slide may leave me without a part needed.

Then there's the aluminum replacement shifter handles from tr custom parts Shifter Handles

I also found, for $150?? a "shift handle rebuild kit" eBay Motors: 1987 GRAND NATIONAL SHIFT HANDLE REBUILD KIT (item 130238399005 end time Dec-09-08 20:51:22 PST)

Any suggestions, advice will be appreciated.
 
If the handle is wobbly then more than likely the plastic at base of the T handle is broken and the only thing holding it on is the flexible vinyl cover. The grinding noise is probably pieces of broken plastic.The white piece extending from the shifter stalk can be turned either in or out to lengthen or shorten it.You can still use the shift without the T-handle. You can use all of the old parts from your handle and only need the bare handle,but you probably would be better off getting an Aluminum one from TR Custom Parts.
 
Depending on how badly the inner plastic is broken, you may be able to salvage it on the cheap using two-part epoxy. I did this many years ago on my first GN and the repair lasted solidly for a number of years.
 
Someone makes a metal J hook to replace the plastic one.

G-Body parts maybe?
 
Had the same problem

Got the replacement handle from Kirban. Transferred the trim rings and glued them with contact cement. Reused the spring. Only comment I have was the new OEM handle was a very tight fit.
 
That guy's nuts on eBay. I sold a complete NOS/NIB, OEM, grey handle, complete with the slider for $45.00 not two months ago. I suppose he's hoping someone is just REALLY desperate. As easy as the handle is to disassemble/reassemble: It would be foolish not to know exactly what you need before ordering anything. Take it apart and see if the slider's still good. Usually when that breaks, nothing works.
 
I had an issue where my shifter handle was wobbly and sloppy. Turns out the black plastic was broken at the base, and only a trip of the vinyl for the shifter cover was the only thing holding it on.

After spending a small coin on a new shifter handle, I reused the buttons and such and all is well again. Nice firm shifter handle.
 
Yeah, I was thinking this will be best. The plastic one only lasted a couple of years. Here in socal, stupid drivers cause me to slap my forehead in disbelief, then slam my hand down onto the shifter handle in anger, which is probably why it's broken.
 
I decided to go with the aluminum one from tr custom parts. Ordered late friday, received monday, good transaction.

The part looks as pictured on their site, well made, but the instructions are a bit hazy. Adjust the white plastic piece until it sticks out 1/16 when fully depressed. So I continued to adjust up, then pressing down, and it still wouldn't bottom out to stick out at all, then the spring holding the j rod up broke. Not knowing what happened, I disassembled the whole thing, and found the broken spring sitting under the j rod. I managed to salvage the spring by bending the last coil of the broken end to create a new hook. This also gave me the opportunity to clean grooves of the plastic slider/cover, and align the plastic piece of the gear shift indicator light. I did need to enlarge the holes to get it where it should be.

Note, the metal piece the J rod slots into to lock into park bolts on from the bottom, you see a stud sticking up (which is actually a bolt), and a nut on the stud holding it on. So it can't be removed by top access only, and in my case probably didn't need to be taken off. One nut did come off, so the bolt was probably held in place from the bottom by a 20 year old spilled soda.

Anyhow, after fixing the broken spring and putting it all back together, I installed the handle, one more time off and on to adjust up on the white plastic, then tightened the two 5/64 allen set screws, good to go.

I kept picturing myself as Kevin Klein after the Laker game in the Grand Canyon movie, getting stranded in Inglewood, except Danny Glover and his tow truck don't come to the rescue. For anyone else with this concern, it's good to know if you go to shift, and the handle breaks off, you can work the shifter by pressing down on the white plastic piece. Unscrew it a little if necessary if it won't disengage the shift lock.
 
1.5 + years

The unit from tr custom parts is holding up great. It works as good as the day I put it in. The anodized aluminum has not become scratched or worn, as I had feared.

My only complaint would be that the little set screws that hold it onto the chrome shaft are a wee bit long and stick out ever so slightly. You can't see it, but you can feel it, minor detail.

An option for anyone looking is an "upgraded shifter handle assembly" from gbody parts. The aluminum one I got seems bulletproof, but this one would retain the stock look.
 
Masher said:
The unit from tr custom parts is holding up great. It works as good as the day I put it in. The anodized aluminum has not become scratched or worn, as I had feared.

My only complaint would be that the little set screws that hold it onto the chrome shaft are a wee bit long and stick out ever so slightly. You can't see it, but you can feel it, minor detail.

An option for anyone looking is an "upgraded shifter handle assembly" from gbody parts. The aluminum one I got seems bulletproof, but this one would retain the stock look.
Click to expand...

I can vouch for your handle from TR Custom Parts (Mark H.) also. I have one in my GN and it holds up great. Looks very custom but not wanky. Really a well made thought out part. Mark sold me replacement parts for it in the past. He's a real top notch guy with top notch products. I love my "Mark" handle. It's beautiful. I have my "nos" and used original handles in storage in case I die before I get old and my wife can turn it back to being original and get top dollar for her and her next husband.:p



Bruce '87 Grand National
 
I am brand new to this site and came across this old thread but it seems to fit the problem I'm having so I'm hoping someone can give me some insight. I recently purchased a 1987 Grand National and my "plan" is to keep it pretty close to stock and work on fixing the problems and maybe doing some upgrades like a new exhaust, air intake (maf pipe, down pipe, etc) and then just see from there - I have no plans to make this a race machine or anything like that, been there...done that with other cars and just want to have this to drive from time to time and maybe some shows.

Anyway, the first problem I have come across that is really annoying me is the shifter. It is a little wobbly but that doesn't really bother me, the big problem is it really fights me trying to go into Park. I found out last night that if I push the button in as far as possible (which is pretty far) it will make a sound which could be a popping sound but if I do that it will go into park smoothly.

A few people on this post recommended the replacement shifter from TR Custom Parts and I couldn't find it on the site and doing some further research it appears he doesn't make it anymore. As I said I would like to keep this car as close to stock as possible especially with the interior so I found this:

http://www.kirbanperformance.com/pr...EY+CONSOLE+SHIFTER+HANDLE+ASSEMBLY+#7328.html

They also sell a totally stock replacement handle for $40 but I liked the idea of the aluminum inner parts vs the stock plastic parts. I know this is expensive and that's why I'm posting, I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with this or has heard if this works well and works for a long time or is it not worth the extra money and I should just go with the bone stock replacement handle?

I wouldn't be against a entirely new shifter handle but I really don't want to get into something like a ratchet shifter that I will have to modify to get the lights to work or anything crazy and would like to shoot for stock if possible. I saw some pics of the TR Custom Parts shifter and would have been fine with that but it's not longer available. Would this option from Kirban be a good fit and do you guys think it would solve my problem with shifting into Park?
 
Just figured I should post back on this in case someone else runs into a similar problem. I have resolved my shifting issue and it was related to the shifter handle assembly. I checked out a lot of options but since I want to stay as close to stock as possible I went ahead and purchased this:

http://www.gbodyparts.com/product_i...=1426&osCsid=21669ee4c5947452fd56005f34b466b2

This is a stock handle but with upgrade internal parts (aluminum instead of plastic). I installed it this weekend and while it was pretty easy I did have to mess with it it a bit and it was a very snug fit as well. Anyway, when removing the stock shifter handle I noticed that the "C" clip holding the handle on was missing so nothing was keeping the handle from moving up on the rod so I believe that was the problem. I'm not sure why it was missing but I noticed that putting on the new handle, if you didn't screw the one piece on the rod all the way down till it won't turn anymore you won't be able to get the handle seated properly and down far enough to put the "C" clip on ... but who knows what or why this happened.

Anyway after screwing in the new aluminum piece onto the shifter rod all the way down and putting the new pre-assembled handle in place (had to hammer it down a bit because of how snug it was) I was able to put the "C" clip in place and when i tested it everything worked fine and I had no trouble moving through the gears. :)
 
Brad thank you for the feed back. We went & checked our adjusters. We noticed 1 was tighter then others to install which made no sense to us. So after reveiwing 3 speed shifter & 4 shifters from Buick & Olds we noticed there are differences. No real this year make & model has this so we need that. The real problem is that there is no real rhyme or reason but all 4 speeds in Olds & Buick's are the same thread pitch. But with all the cars here we had a lot to look at today. It seems using a plastic adjuster will work on any rod. But when using the aluminum we noticed they were tight on some rods & not others. The threads are actually taller. this is due to a slight thicker J-rod. We spent most of the morning on this. There must be a different part # used on some of these J-rods or a different supplier possiblly? We found out that some are threaded futher then others as well.
I spent a lot of time & $ building all these internal parts. We are going to try & get a clear cut answer & build a 1 fits all type of set up. We may have to shorten up the adjuster. This seems to be more of an odd ball then a standard. Out 0f 40 some shifters on the shelf & 30 some cars. This odd J-rod can be found in 3 or 4 speed shifters in a Buick or an Olds.

On a side note every one who has a 82-4 Sand gray or a different color (burgundy, Blue, tan, black) then GN gray we are getting the handles & internals reproduced. We will be able to offer exact factory shifters for less then the aluminum. We will also carry the up graded units as well. They are going to out last any stock shifter set up.
Yes every color that was made. So if you have an 84 GN & the Tan handle is making you crazy it will be available in the late fall. Hopefully the new comsoles will be done around this time as well .

Nick they are pretty tough as well.
 
I'll toss in my 2 cents on the GBodyParts handle Nick linked. Its a really nice, solid piece that looks great. Having said that, a few small nits. It doesn't have a shelf to rest atop the stalk - that means you push it down as far as it can and it will depress the shaft. So it needs a little playing with to find the perfect height. Its held in place by a set screw, which combined with not resting on the stalk, means there's a small amount of wobble. Lastly, mother of God, you better have a glove or towel handy if you try grabbing the thing and you've left your car out for a few hours on a hot sunny day. None of these would deter me from buying it again, however.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
02 Sensor Search
Replies
6
Views
282
BFlat
B
T
Door handle “gasket”
Replies
0
Views
346
Tomjoejohn
T
joed
Aftermarket shifter handle for stock shifter
Replies
9
Views
544
Buick Mark
Buick Mark
WE4TP
FOR SALE: 1987 Buick Turbo-T WE4/WO2 $60,000 Package Deal
Replies
0
Views
2K
WE4TP
WE4TP
Pronto
Belly pan/drip pan
Replies
11
Views
3K
jckcolarusso
jckcolarusso
Top