serpentine setup

I dont see why not. You would need everything off of an LC2. And I mean everything. Alternator,PS pump,AC compressor.....etc. I haven't had much luck trying to piece together a system using junkyard parts from a FWD 3800. If somebody out there is making billet serp belt pulleys for the 350/455 Buick V-8 that would be another option that should work. The pulleys from a Buick V-8 are the same,more or less, for the V-6. The only pulley that wont interchange with the V-6 is the crank pulley from the 400/430/455s.
 
The v belts keep slipping i even tryed a double pulley setup. Still the same thing
 
This may sound crazy but sand blast the pulleys and then switch over to a lawn mower type belt Jim. We've had to do this on the dirt cars some times.;)
 
I did this on my N/A simply by buying RJC pulleys (or any used stock one) and then just spaced the alt. out to match. Of course all I had was 3 pulleys (no P/S, A/C, or smog) but it was very straight forward. Looks really cool too. The advantage is more contact area and less HP to turn it.
 
like Fuzzy said, if your running the bare minimum acessories then its easy to set up for serpentine. but if you want AC and Pwr Str, then you will need a system from the LC2
 
The alternator on our cars is on the passenger side of the engine. The Setup on the IC cars is diffrent than ours, however could we/I run the setup (for example) the same way the IC cars belts are setup? how difficult would it be to make it work for our engines.
 
just a matter of converting the system to use the LC2 brackets and acessory location.

need all brackets
need to extend alt wires
need all correct pulleys


mind you, the LC2 system may affect placement of other items such as waterneck outlet location and the like. careful attention needs to be payed during swap/.
 
I think there could be a problem with the LC2 alternator location and the big HEI distributor.
 
your absolutly correct! The LC2 system will not fit a distributor. I run a crank trigger so I hadnt even thought about it.
 
I've looked into running the LC2 exhaust & turbo on a NA engine (blow-thru carb) and this is one of the hurdles to get over. I'm sure there is a way, just not something obvious.
 
I've looked into running the LC2 exhaust & turbo on a NA engine (blow-thru carb) and this is one of the hurdles to get over. I'm sure there is a way, just not something obvious.

Absolutly there is, thats how I make the blower fit on my blue truck. honestly I think its the way to go as it gives complete control over igniton.
 
I have had the idea of running a series II 3800 knock sensor and then realized it would be just as easy to run the entire ignition system. Dump the distributor, run a cam sensor and the 3 coil packs. It would allow for infinitly adjustable spark and a knock retard system that acutally works. Just need a 3800 ECM, wiring harness, and coilpacks. Would be able to get rid of all the injector wiring wich is half of it.

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I have had the idea of running a series II 3800 knock sensor and then realized it would be just as easy to run the entire ignition system. Dump the distributor, run a cam sensor and the 3 coil packs. It would allow for infinitly adjustable spark and a knock retard system that acutally works. Just need a 3800 ECM, wiring harness, and coilpacks. Would be able to get rid of all the injector wiring wich is half of it.

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you have confirmed this works?
 
I havnt confirmed anything, the only way I would call it confirmed is if I had the engine running on a series II spark system. I dont call any of my research confirmed until it runs. However........

The only thing I am unsure of is weather or not the spark will fire with all the ends cut out of the harness. HP tuners can tune out the injectors, transmission, fans, AC, ect. all it would run is spark. Would need to run the crank sensor, knock sensors, MAP sensor, IAT sensor, and a coolant temp sensor.

I am not as read up on GM EFI as I should be to sure, but from what ive seen is as long as the crank sensor sees it spinning and has voltage it will fire. My firebird had spark with the injectors unplugged when I tested it last summer so I am just piecing things together here. The IAT, MAP, ECT, are just for timing adjustments based on weather conditions. From what I know and have experienced, the car will run with them all unplugged, it will run crappy, but it will spark.

If I didnt have multiple problems and was starting college this weekend I would look into it. PCM's and wiring harnesses off a series II are cheap since GM built millions of them.
 
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