S-10 wheel cylinders

flattype

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Joined
May 11, 2006
Just put them on today, can build about 4 pounds more boost powerbraking. Maybe it was just me but those clips are a pain in the ass! BTW I just used the stock shoes the rears are a little grabby but it seems to stop better overall.
 
Ive been hearing about this mod for awhile, what year S10 wheel cylinders work? And do all the S10 in these years work with the GN? Whats a good price?
 
my1stgn said:
Ive been hearing about this mod for awhile, what year S10 wheel cylinders work? And do all the S10 in these years work with the GN? Whats a good price?
83-84 Non power brake s10's.. I think I paid $15 for the pair of them.
 
Those clips are a pain in the ass! I also added Cotton's performance pads when I changed my cylinders. Very noticeable amount of holding power.
 
This tool will make short work of removing wheel cylinder retaining clips, well worth the $10 or so. For reinstalling the clips, place a large socket over the clip and tap it on.
 

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GM # 18012305 (same as Delco 172-1381), or aftermarket equivalent, such as NAPA # 4637644.

new brake cylinders are readily available.
 
Awesome! Anything else I need for the conversion? IE fittings, ect? Obviously brake fluid to top of and bleed the system. Thanks! :biggrin:
 
No fittings needed (its pretty much the same exact wc as stock but it has a bigger bore)
 
I got mine at Autozone, work like a champ. Also, while the drum is off, you can sand the surface with some real rough sandpaper to make them grab better.
I also just used a set of organic / very soft rear pads, buy 2 pairs and then use the long ones on both sides of the drum and return the 4 shorter pads for the core $ on the set. Can hold 15# of boost now :D
 
tom h said:
GM # 18012305 (same as Delco 172-1381), or aftermarket equivalent, such as NAPA # 4637644.

new brake cylinders are readily available.

Good info. Thanks. I'm calling Napa. :cool:
 
if you also add a new proportioning valve thats ment for disc to disc you could pick up about 3 extra pounds, im not sure what car is comes from but i bought mine on ebay, cense its disc to disc more fluid pumps to the rear cylinders and that = more boost to the wheels. if i can find the seller ill post it here.
 
marred4life said:
if you also add a new proportioning valve thats ment for disc to disc you could pick up about 3 extra pounds, im not sure what car is comes from but i bought mine on ebay, cense its disc to disc more fluid pumps to the rear cylinders and that = more boost to the wheels. if i can find the seller ill post it here.


fatrodder
heres his ebay login name
 
What about burnouts?

Doesn't having stronger back breaks make it harder to heat the rear tires up (burnout) at the track? Do linelocks work well?
 
GNDriven said:
Doesn't having stronger back breaks make it harder to heat the rear tires up (burnout) at the track? Do linelocks work well?

Add slicks or Drag radials and that extra rear breaking power and burnouts are harder to do.
 
GNDriven said:
Doesn't having stronger back breaks make it harder to heat the rear tires up (burnout) at the track? Do linelocks work well?
Yes, if you drag race alot, a line lock is a must.

Aside from the disc brake proportioning valve, you can also buy a jumper valve which when engaged, directs ALL of the fluid to the rear drums, it gives you enough holding power that you can tear the pads off the linings :D
I beleive Ron's Customs sells these or you can build one from Granger parts I think.
 
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