Wicked WE4
Member
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2009
Does the block need any special machining before installing a RJC main cap girdle?
I have done several engines where I machine the pan rail down to match the cap height. That way the girdle rests directly on the pan rail and the caps without shims. You might want to check your girdle on a surface plate for flatness. I have had to surface grind girdles to make them flat and true. I believe Weber Racing machines their blocks this way.
charlie what's the link ?
I have done several engines where I machine the pan rail down to match the cap height. That way the girdle rests directly on the pan rail and the caps without shims. You might want to check your girdle on a surface plate for flatness. I have had to surface grind girdles to make them flat and true. I believe Weber Racing machines their blocks this way.[/quote
Mine was done this way in a vertical mill. The caps were machined to the height specified by RJC, then the pan rail and front cover were machined .015 more than the caps. The caps were machined attached to the block with special allen head button bolts torqued to spec, then line honed with the girdle installed. Also, the oil pickup mounting surface was machined. Photo attached of a cap. Went together perfectly and no oil leaks. A careful machinest can install it the way RJC recommends and it will work fine, but the shims are a pain to get right. The down side to my install is that any new front cover will need to be machined. You will also have to clearance the pickup tube extension by grinding the girdle and extension. The girdle may need to be clearanced where the dipstick tube enters the pan area also. Lots of work, but I am happy with mine.
Try this.
Looks like a nice block. The sg1 would indicate that it was a service block. Was it new old stock?I know where that engine resides.
The bit being used in the video is a 1 1/4 high speed steel bit. As with most boring operations, the amount of material being taken off is quite minimal and does not require coolant. Generally speaking, we take .010-.015" off of the pan rail to make it square. This gives the girdle a true surface to mate to, without shims/voids between the girdle and block's pan rail, for maximum strength.
The bit being used in the video is a 1 1/4 high speed steel bit. As with most boring operations, the amount of material being taken off is quite minimal and does not require coolant. Generally speaking, we take .010-.015" off of the pan rail to make it square. This gives the girdle a true surface to mate to, without shims/voids between the girdle and block's pan rail, for maximum strength.
Then they use the wrong gasket and the oil pan leaks!