Replacing crank bearings w/o removing crank

[QuikRick]

I'd like to install new crankshaft bearings w/o removing the crank. Cam lobe partially gone and old bearings don't look too bad but figured I've gone into it this far and for what they cost I might as well put new bearings in. I think there is some kind of tough plastic or nylon tool you can use to remove the upper bearing half. I believe you insert it into the crankshaft oil hole and rotate the crank from the oppposite side of the bearing lock and it pushes the upper bearing half right on out. You can then reverse the procedure using the same tool to install the new upper bearing half. Has anyone ever heard of this or done this and if so do you know where I might purchase this gizmo?

 

[Red Regal T]

I've changed bearings quite a few times over the years, and no gizmo needed.

 

[buickspec6231]

I'd like to install new crankshaft bearings w/o removing the crank. Cam lobe partially gone and old bearings don't look too bad but figured I've gone into it this far and for what they cost I might as well put new bearings in. I think there is some kind of tough plastic or nylon tool you can use to remove the upper bearing half. I believe you insert it into the crankshaft oil hole and rotate the crank from the oppposite side of the bearing lock and it pushes the upper bearing half right on out. You can then reverse the procedure using the same tool to install the new upper bearing half. Has anyone ever heard of this or done this and if so do you know where I might purchase this gizmo?

It is possible to roll bearings in. When I was a kid I remember my Dad getting a phone call from my Mom telling him that she spun a bearing in her van. My dad being the broke mechanic he is loaded up a bunch of tools and off we went from Long Island to Pennsylvania. On the side of the road at night my Dad rolled in some new bearings and we drove the van back home. Its definitely not the proper fix, but it worked that time. He didn't have any special tool to do it either, just the right touch. And a set of cheap bearings was much cheaper than a 200 mile tow bill.

I am not recommending just rolling in all new bearings. Is there a reason that you are against removing the crankshaft?? I am guessing that you don't have a way to pull the engine from the vehicle?? Some vehicles it is almost impossible to remove the oil pan from a vehicle with out lifting the engine up slightly to clear a crossmember.... I am just trying to figure out why do it the way you are thinking? Post back up if you get any further.

 

[QuikRick]

I've changed bearings quite a few times over the years, and no gizmo needed.

Well how did you get the top half of the bearings out without scaring up the journal or block?

 

[QuikRick]

It is possible to roll bearings in. When I was a kid I remember my Dad getting a phone call from my Mom telling him that she spun a bearing in her van. My dad being the broke mechanic he is loaded up a bunch of tools and off we went from Long Island to Pennsylvania. On the side of the road at night my Dad rolled in some new bearings and we drove the van back home. Its definitely not the proper fix, but it worked that time. He didn't have any special tool to do it either, just the right touch. And a set of cheap bearings was much cheaper than a 200 mile tow bill.

I am not recommending just rolling in all new bearings. Is there a reason that you are against removing the crankshaft?? I am guessing that you don't have a way to pull the engine from the vehicle?? Some vehicles it is almost impossible to remove the oil pan from a vehicle with out lifting the engine up slightly to clear a crossmember.... I am just trying to figure out why do it the way you are thinking? Post back up if you get any further.

Oil pan is already dropped. I am working in very tight quarters and just don't want to go through the extra hassle of pulling the engine, that's all. I know sometimes the bearings will "roll" in quite easily but sometimes "NOT". That is why I was inquiring about the tool "gizmo". LOL Have #1 & #2 main caps off but haven't tried to roll out the top bearing halves yet.

 

[Dabigguy]

I've heard that you can take a thin cotter key and bend the two ends 90 degrees, forming a "T" and stick the big end into the crank oil hole and turn the crank and the cotter key will slide the bearing out. Cotter keys are made out of a soft material that won't scratch your crank.

You said "I am working in very tight quarters and just don't want to go through the extra hassle of pulling the engine". If your cam went flat, all that metal went throughout your engine, lodging in the nooks and crannies of your engine. If you don't disassemble the engine and clean it properly, you will have to continue to replace bearings. Just my .02.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

My $.02...Depending on how much crap is in the oil galleys, on the rough surfaces of the block and heads, new brgs are gonna get a dose of metal.....Just like the original brgs did.

Go the extra mile... Clean the engine out, and do it right.

 

[6E-GN]

I have done it,not on the buick turbo engine,but several others,if you are careful it can be done,you need to remove the cap,and you will see the ends of the second half,tap on the edge of the bearing to get it started ,then drive it out with the exposed edge,and install the the bearings the same way,I have never had a problem in 25 years,how about changing a head gasket with removing the intake?hmmm.

 

[hiboom]

bearings

make sure your ass. (alternator,water pump) belt is off I done it on my back in a garage and on a over head hoist I just use a plastic tool you use for windshield or door panels (looks like a tongue depressor) about any thing blunt and a little flexible will work.I took my off one at a time.

 

[Red Regal T]

Well how did you get the top half of the bearings out without scaring up the journal or block?

First, remove the fan belt. Then you break loose all the main caps. This will allow the bearings to be pushed out. Pull one cap off at a time and push around the top bearing. I used a small screwdriver and push on the edge of the bearing. It will roll around and cause no damage. Replace each main bearing as you go. You can move the crank by moving the flywheel.

 

[Red Regal T]

Well how did you get the top half of the bearings out without scaring up the journal or block?

Without a GIZMO!

 

[delcowizzid]

your tool is allready in the main cap take the bearing shell and bend it straight on one end you now have a bearing remover heres one in this pic from when i changed bearings last month

 

[turbofabricator]

Pull the main cap and inspect the lower bearing shell. If the lower bearing shell is in good shape, the upper shell is even better. Don;t change a bearing just because you think they need it. I have done it a few times laying on my back (in a turbo Buick) and it is not too difficult. BUT.....if the bearings are ok, leave them alone. Rod bearings are simple. But as Chuck stated if the bearings are shot, time to tear it out and do it right, or you WILL be doing it again, soon. Check your timing cover and oil pump closely, too. At level of dissassembly, you're 20 minutes away from doing it right. Pulling an engine out of these cars is pretty simple. Looks difficult, but if you can turn a wrench, it's out pretty quick.

 

[QuikRick]

I've heard that you can take a thin cotter key and bend the two ends 90 degrees, forming a "T" and stick the big end into the crank oil hole and turn the crank and the cotter key will slide the bearing out. Cotter keys are made out of a soft material that won't scratch your crank.

I think this is the way to go. What would you recommend on how to hold the cotter pin in place so it doesn't fall out of the oil hole before you get the crank turned? I'm thinking maybe some axle grease would do the trick. Or maybe get the crank turned where the oil hole is right next to the bearing half and the cotter pin is tight getting into the hole? Ideas? Help.

 

[Red Regal T]

What are you talking about? Just turn the crank, if you need to, by moving the fly wheel.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Use a nail in the oil hole.