I have.
I bought the
super front end rebuild kit from PST. I also purchased the center link from them (about $60). Instead of using their upper front control arm bushings I bought
Del-A-Lum control arm bushings. I re-used the stock front springs, but recommend changing the "rubber cushion" that sits above the spring which I didnt do. While I had everything off, I coated the a-arms with
POR-15 along with the frame rails and steering box.
It is a lot of work. I would estimate about 10 hours total from start to finish (including the painting I did). Dont be too scared of the front springs. I would recommend using 2 floor jacks per lower control arm when removing them. Do not remove the shock until the lower control arm is completely loose. This will prevent the spring from flying out and breaking your arm in half. KEEP THE SHOCK IN THE SPRING UNTIL THE TENSION IS OFF THE SPRING. Just wanted to clarify that
You have to remove the front brakes, loosen the upper and lower ball joint nuts a few turns, then hammer the hell outta the spindle and LCA with a LARGE hammer (I used a 3ft long sledge hammer which worked well). This will "pop" the ball joint loose. After they are loose, you need to put a floor jack beneath the LCA (lower control arm) where the spring "pocket" is, and the other floor jack a little further back towards the frame bolts. Remove the frame bolts and slowly lower the arm until the spring is relieved of energy. Then remove the shock.
The UCA is easy to remove. Make sure the UBJ (upper ball joint) is loose. Just remove the two NUTS (DO NOT SPIN THE BOLTS) that hold the UCA to the frame (right by the downpipe), then tap the bolts through with a hammer. The bolts have a knurled body that hold tight in the frame. You do not want to twist these or the splines will become rounded. Just remove the nuts on the back, and pound the bolt through. Now your UCA, LCA, and spindle are off the car. I dropped the controal arms off at a local shop and had them press out the old bushings and in the new bushings for me (costed $60 for all 4 arms).
Removing the steering (tie rods, center link, idler arm) is easy. Do not turn the adjusters or you will not be able to get your new steering components close. I just got mine as close as possible then limped the car to Sears to have an alignment done.
If you need more detail, or questions, PM or e-mail me. I will check this post back again too. I did not need to rent ANY special tools. Just make sure you have all basic tools and sockets large enough for the ball joint, control arm, and tie rod bolts.
