Rebuilt turbo???

Anarchy

One fast Hot Air
Joined
Sep 9, 2010
well finally after trying to get my car started for a week it runs. ran it for a few days with everything fine. but today the turbo smoked (WHITE SMOKE). is this the oil return line and if so is this a easy fix or do i have to just get a new turbo. i really hope this is a easy fix just the return line and thats it.
 
I would check the turbo. Remove the air intake pipe and look at the turbo compressor wheels. Is there oil on them? Is there side to side and in and out shaft play? Post your results. Brad
 
will do but im at work.. the car is out side i dont dare turn her on. im scared i might mess it up even more. so looks like its gonna havbe to stay at work till tomorrow and ill take a look at her on my lunch break tomorrow.
 
Next time don't push her just after getting it running, I know it's great to get her running just watch out tho. The oil return is a pita if stock. Get gbodyparts return line it or something, anything is better then that stock pos. The turbo sounds like it needs a rebuild or your crankcase pressure is really high and pushing oil through your seals. I hope is just CCP. A rebuilt shouldn't cost much tho.
 
a rebuild is what im thinking its gonna need now i just gotta find a place to send it to.
 
just got a price quote at the local car place down the road. 375 on the rebuild. does that seam fair.
 
just got a price quote at the local car place down the road. 375 on the rebuild. does that seam fair.

I personally would send it to Precision Turbo in IN. Thats who rebuilt my TA33C. They are a vendor here and are a proven. I would give them a call. Brad
 
Blasstperformace does it for 150 but located in canada so 200 around there or so for them. Contact gbodyparts, jaysgn, limited or a Buick turbo vendor. Unless they are a repected hi performance shop that's has history of turbo rebuilds I wouldn't chance it. Also make sure you only use a hotair seal, I believe it's carbon. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. Before anything do you have a open valve cover breather? Have you changed your PFC valve to a new one? For the breather take it off and clean it, if oil soaked it will cause you to get high crankcase psi build up, not good. For the PFC valve just swap it out to a knew one, located on intake just below the throttle body. If that doesn't help rebuilt turbo time most likely. ( iPhone text hope I make sense)
 
Blasstperformace does it for 150 but located in canada so 200 around there or so for them. Contact gbodyparts, jaysgn, limited or a Buick turbo vendor. Unless they are a repected hi performance shop that's has history of turbo rebuilds I wouldn't chance it. Also make sure you only use a hotair seal, I believe it's carbon. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. Before anything do you have a open valve cover breather? Have you changed your PFC valve to a new one? For the breather take it off and clean it, if oil soaked it will cause you to get high crankcase psi build up, not good. For the PFC valve just swap it out to a knew one, located on intake just below the throttle body. If that doesn't help rebuilt turbo time most likely. ( iPhone text hope I make sense)

Excellent advice here. High crankcase pressure caused 3 turbo seal failures in my case before figuring it out. Brad
 
well had the shop drive over to look at her and they tell me its the seals. easy 150 dollar fix. well no its good bye once more. damn it every time i get this car running its like i lose it again... well lets see what this out come is now...
 
While the turbo is getting rebuilt, I would do spring cleaning along with checking everything else out. This would include entire check up, not just visual to conniptions,all hoses (brake -vac etc) any wires(clean up ground contacts).

Also , take the turbo out yourself just get it towed to your house. I do my best to trust people but so not be a fool. That and not many know how or what to do with a TR , a hotair more so. My 2 cents
 
got ya they dont have the car its sitting in the car garage her at my dealership. but i will remove it my self and take it to them. and yeah the spring cleaning part sounds good i do need a name of the spark plugs that you recomended. also spark plug wires and so forth. thinking about dropping the tank and cleaning that to. so give me a typical check list and ill go throught it oil and tranny flush is a must i know that.
 
Forgot to ask, what oil weight are you using? Also is it synthetic? Only ask because if so , it may or may not be the problem atleast in part. Just throwing it out there, sure it's not that or just that. As for her being down for repairs, it happens ........more so if you don't have a scantool, so get yourself one before anything else.
 
I use NGK vpower plugs myself, AcDelco or champions are also used. Others will chime in on what they use or is best. For wires, believe it or not new stock wire set work just great. I use Taylor street thunders as shown in my SIG. You could use whatever you like or wallet allows. (MSD universal streetfire's tp racing MSD ) I got Taylor's as a bump up in wire set without going over the top, also a few bucks more then stock set.

If your gonna drop the tank and don't have a walbro or 255lp pump or higher, get one. I'm not sure if you already do tho. While the tank was out/drained, I cleaned the inside then used a rag a bit on the inside. If the tank is not rusted, you might want to use a can of hi temp primer and then enamel to protect it. (outside only) If you have stock fuel lines, be sure not to kink them when taking the tank off. Most of us replace that section with HD rubber fuel line as to FLEX when it's being dropped. Get yourself a New tank sending unit seal(O ring) to reseal the tank when done.

next upgrades IMO for you should be atleast these two.
LT1/LS1/LS6 MAF + Translator/ or plus
Scantool , scanmaster or powerlogger(laptop needed for PL)


The Grand National / T-Type / Turbo Regal Buick Spring Cleaning Guide

Resources

Parts Source
Here are some links
 
i have printed your "spring cleaning" section. thanks again man you are truely a hot air god...lol.
 
Excellent advice here. High crankcase pressure caused 3 turbo seal failures in my case before figuring it out. Brad

Brad . . . . and "just maybe" the car has a blown HG into the lifter valley which may blow the next turbo, or . . . . . it is blowing oil through the PCV from the crank case pressure. :eek: . . . . Just a stab in the dark. ;)
 
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