Rear sway bar

[jdpolzin]

So that bar should complement the front 3rd gen bar nicely huh?

Let me put it this way, I'm running one in my 86!:biggrin:

 

[Pittsburghkid]

Scott does your rear sway bar have any clearance problems with the 3" gn1 exhaust like the HR bar?

Charlie do you have any pics of the underside of the car with the blazer sway bar to see where the sway bar links connect and what the bends on the bar look like? thanks

 

[83hurstguy]

When did the Hellwig one get released? It was showing as a "new SEMA product" for this year... and this was all I could find:
Hellwig Pro-Touring Rear Sway Bars for GM G-Body Now Available - Chevelle Tech

The Hellwig is nice stuff for a good price.

 

[Grumpy]

Full throttle sells a atr-like replica bar for like $129 or so if I recall. I got it when Mike had a free shipping sale. I figured Id try it before spending the extra $$ on an HnR bar.

What are you looking to get out of the rear bar ?? This ATR/FT works very good like "russgoodman" said. Especially for the $$$. We are prob goin to go with the HR one sometime BUT this has been great so far.. 1.4 60' 9.9@ 138

 

[jdpolzin]

When did the Hellwig one get released? It was showing as a "new SEMA product" for this year... and this was all I could find:
Hellwig Pro-Touring Rear Sway Bars for GM G-Body Now Available - Chevelle Tech

The Hellwig is nice stuff for a good price.

I honestly cant say when it was released but I know a few months ago it wasnt available. So, I would say it's been released within the past couple months!

 

[jdpolzin]

Well if you're cheap and into experimenting then here's an option for ya.:biggrin: You can use one off a last gen S-10 4 door Blazer with towing package. It's bigger than the stock bar and they're cheap in a salvage yard.

And yes, I will be trying this once the car is back together enough to do it.:biggrin: Both sway bars but using the Blazer bar to fine tune the car some. Just thought I'd see if it will work or not for some fun.

This is actually a very good option and they do work very well! I've used them on 3 cars so far!!

 

[Pittsburghkid]

What are you looking to get out of the rear bar ?? This ATR/FT works very good like "russgoodman" said. Especially for the $$$. We are prob goin to go with the HR one sometime BUT this has been great so far.. 1.4 60' 9.9@ 138

can you post a link to the FT bar? Everytime I look for it on FT I keep finding the HR bar.

 

[usetaboost]

Let me put it this way, I'm running one in my 86!:biggrin:

Then it's good enough for Patches:biggrin: THis will be on my list after a different turbo. Then I just gotta find a hydroboost setup and s10 brakes for a decent price and I'll call that good.

 

[jdpolzin]

can you post a link to the FT bar? Everytime I look for it on FT I keep finding the HR bar.

You might want to just call Marianne for prices. I havent seen it on the website for quite sometime now.

 

[charlief1]

Charlie do you have any pics of the underside of the car with the blazer sway bar to see where the sway bar links connect and what the bends on the bar look like? thanks

Not at the moment. I just did put it in there when I took the rear out so I could put the disc brakes on it and do some other mods. I found that I had frame issues so I have to pull it now and haven't installed it. I found some poly links and they will be mounted in the frame brace to the bar.

This is actually a very good option and they do work very well! I've used them on 3 cars so far!!

The only question I've got is will using 2 bars cause an issue. I'll find out soon enough though.:smile: I really don't think it will cause binding issue though.

 

[scot w.]

Scott does your rear sway bar have any clearance problems with the 3" gn1 exhaust like the HR bar?

Charlie do you have any pics of the underside of the car with the blazer sway bar to see where the sway bar links connect and what the bends on the bar look like? thanks

Can't say anything about the GN1 exhaust as I have had no experience with them but I can tell you that I have the 3" ATR dual exhaust on my car and our Rear sway bar fit's just fine.

Note: Our bar and the Hellwig mount the exact same way as the H&R bar. Some will have slight differences from one another but still the same mount characteristics when it comes down to the exhaust arching over the axle. On some the axle brackets of the sway bar happen to fall right where the exhaust starts the bend up going over the axle and can cause a hitting issue there. Simple fix is to just spin the bracket slightly for clearance. That little bit has no effect on the bars performance what so ever..


Scot W.

 

[jdpolzin]

Not at the moment. I just did put it in there when I took the rear out so I could put the disc brakes on it and do some other mods. I found that I had frame issues so I have to pull it now and haven't installed it. I found some poly links and they will be mounted in the frame brace to the bar.



The only question I've got is will using 2 bars cause an issue. I'll find out soon enough though.:smile: I really don't think it will cause binding issue though.

Charlie i didnt realize you were planning to use them both. I could a conflicting roll center issue with one bar trying to use the rear crossmember to stabalize and the other bar trying to secure the lower control arms.


But, if you think about it, How much different would it be than just using stable lowers and a good mounting point to the rear end. Your essentially just keeping the lowers square with the rear end with the stock bar.

At first glance, it looks off the wall but after second thought, I would be curious to see what happens!! Keep us posted.

 

[83hurstguy]

The only question I've got is will using 2 bars cause an issue. I'll find out soon enough though.:smile: I really don't think it will cause binding issue though.

You are going to have a ton of rear roll stiffness... is there a reason you need that much?

In my opinion, the problem with the stock bar is that it induces a torsional load on the lower arms. The bar loading adds friction to the rotating joints on the ends of the lower arms, which then reduces the rear's ability to articulate and actually reduces ride quality. Essentially, rather than the rear end's motion being sprung directly through the chassis, it is now partially being roll controlled through the LCA mounting joints.

I had my stock F41 bar off, and the ride quality actually improved quite noticeably. There was definitely a lot more rear roll, and I didn't bother testing full car balance before I put the bar back on.

When you segregate the bar from the suspension links, you are taking a step in the right direction.

 

[coach]

Scott does your rear sway bar have any clearance problems with the 3" gn1 exhaust like the HR bar?

Charlie do you have any pics of the underside of the car with the blazer sway bar to see where the sway bar links connect and what the bends on the bar look like? thanks

I totally hated to dent up a $750 exhaust system to get a $500 sway bar to fit, but after I did, it was worth it. I have since cut the dented area out and I am going to weld in a clearance pocket by cutting a 3 inch 90 elbow and turning it inward. After it is polished it will look like nothing was ever done.

:biggrin:

 

[jdpolzin]

You are going to have a ton of rear roll stiffness... is there a reason you need that much?

In my opinion, the problem with the stock bar is that it induces a torsional load on the lower arms. The bar loading adds friction to the rotating joints on the ends of the lower arms, which then reduces the rear's ability to articulate and actually reduces ride quality. Essentially, rather than the rear end's motion being sprung directly through the chassis, it is now partially being roll controlled through the LCA mounting joints.

I had my stock F41 bar off, and the ride quality actually improved quite noticeably. There was definitely a lot more rear roll, and I didn't bother testing full car balance before I put the bar back on.

When you segregate the bar from the suspension links, you are taking a step in the right direction.

I would agree and you are 100% correct but....

Just an idea, what do you think about this?

We all know the stock style bar creates bind on the front bushings in the lower control arms, which is the reason for the pro-touring style bars over the stock style now-a-days. And the reason for Johnny Joints, etc as well. I'm curious with the smaller stock style bar and the S-10 style bar if they may actually balance each other becuase the S-10 style bar will eliviate some of the roll from the body and not put so much load on the lower control arms while the stock style bar will help keep the lower rack (lower control arms and rear end) square, which in turn helps keep load balanced.


I'll also add, neither bar is exactly heavy duty. The stock style bar is small, the S-10 bar is narrow. I think it might actually work well.

 

[83hurstguy]

I would agree and you are 100% correct but....

Just an idea, what do you think about this?

We all know the stock style bar creates bind on the front bushings in the lower control arms, which is the reason for the pro-touring style bars over the stock style now-a-days. And the reason for Johnny Joints, etc as well. I'm curious with the smaller stock style bar and the S-10 style bar if they may actually balance each other becuase the S-10 style bar will eliviate some of the roll from the body and not put so much load on the lower control arms while the stock style bar will help keep the lower rack (lower control arms and rear end) square, which in turn helps keep load balanced.

Understood. I think that together, they will be so stiff that the body won't roll much, so it will be hard to tell if it's actually binding from the joints or not. Just my guess. I don't know what the induced roll rates from the bars are, and won't have the time to try to calculate it for a while.

 

[jdpolzin]

Understood. I think that together, they will be so stiff that the body won't roll much, so it will be hard to tell if it's actually binding from the joints or not. Just my guess. I don't know what the induced roll rates from the bars are, and won't have the time to try to calculate it for a while.

I'm interested in how your calculations turn out!






Charlie, I gotta tell you, you definately think outside the box brother! you got my brain thinking!:biggrin:

 

[charlief1]

Charlie i didnt realize you were planning to use them both. I could a conflicting roll center issue with one bar trying to use the rear crossmember to stabalize and the other bar trying to secure the lower control arms.

But, if you think about it, How much different would it be than just using stable lowers and a good mounting point to the rear end. Your essentially just keeping the lowers square with the rear end with the stock bar.

At first glance, it looks off the wall but after second thought, I would be curious to see what happens!! Keep us posted.

I will keep everyone posted on how it works. I thought about the way the system is designed and I think that if I get it set right then it should work just about like the HR bar.

You are going to have a ton of rear roll stiffness... is there a reason you need that much?

In my opinion, the problem with the stock bar is that it induces a torsional load on the lower arms. The bar loading adds friction to the rotating joints on the ends of the lower arms, which then reduces the rear's ability to articulate and actually reduces ride quality. Essentially, rather than the rear end's motion being sprung directly through the chassis, it is now partially being roll controlled through the LCA mounting joints.

I had my stock F41 bar off, and the ride quality actually improved quite noticeably. There was definitely a lot more rear roll, and I didn't bother testing full car balance before I put the bar back on.

When you segregate the bar from the suspension links, you are taking a step in the right direction.

Well one of the issues with the G body cars is the way the rear bar is attached. If you think about it the bar centers the axle and binds it up at the same time. Not the best design. But if you look at how the ATR bar stiffens it up by putting more metal to make it work then you have a partial solution.Using both the stock bat and the Blazer bar set properly you should have the same effect and for much less.:biggrin:

 

[russgoodman]

I just looked at Full Throttle's site and couldn't find the atr replica rear bar that I bought. Might try contacting Mike or Marianne. I looked at my past orders and I got it in Nov 2009, so a little over a year ago. It was listed under "1-3/8” Buick GN/GNX Rear Sway Bar" for $159.99. Hope that helps.

 

[Raymond Bunch]

Hotchkis Extream Sway Bar Kit

I pulled a best of 1.61 60 foot. Front sway bar was still on too. I'm also using the Edelbrock LCA's, which are fabricated/copies of the Hotchkis LCA's patent sold to Edelbrock from what I've read. This was is a full weight car, on 275-60-15 MT DR's. Car runs 7.0 - 7.2 consistantly at 98-100 mph on 21 psi.