Rear carrier planetary pinion end play

Black55Chevy

New Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2016
Hello, I cannot find a rear carrier assembly that does not have pinion end play over .027" The best one I have is at .033. Is this exceptable ?

Thanks...

JB
 
Sounds like a lot. Have you talked to any of our sponsor venders?
Might have to buy a core and hope the planetary is good. as these transmissions get older getting good parts gets harder.
 
The good planetaries are in the BRF cores. Even the Monte SS cores I have disassemble are way loose. They are rebuildable, extreme automatics, and I believe turbobuick performance sell them.
 
I got mine out of an AA Cadillac. You might try that if Dave and Lonnie don't have any. Or send yours in to be rebuilt.
 
It will physically work if you assemble it as-is. After all, that part of the trans was working when you took it apart. Problem is, when it comes to thrust surfaces, the timeline of clearance vs life left is not a linear scale. As things get looser they get more inertia (i.e. the parts "get a run for it") before they contact the thrust washer. So if the wear washer is at 60% thickness, you can't assume 60% life left. This is why the builders set end play tighter than factory spec. If you can't find a replacement, it will work to reassemble it in a pinch. But if it's a high hp or high annual mileage application you might be creating the first eventual failure point.
 
More play has a tendency to slam things when launching hard . A fluid film won't develop and stay there with too much gap and the parts scrape together instead of riding the film. It is worth your time to get a planetary that is in spec or have yours worked on.
 
Hello, I cannot find a rear carrier assembly that does not have pinion end play over .027" The best one I have is at .033. Is this exceptable ?

Thanks...

JB


Thank you all for the feedback. I have over 1,200 dollars in hard parts to make this transmission live behind 450 ft lbs of torque and it would be sad to ruin the trans with weak components


John B
 
Wow, you certainly have a lot invested. I'd make some calls. There are decent planetaries out there. Just have to track one down.

Will you be dual feeding the directs and using a billet shaft forward drum? Do you have a copy of the atsg manual and the ckperformance book? What core are you starting with? Vb and gov with the right setup go a long way when fooling with the 2004r.
 
Wow, you certainly have a lot invested. I'd make some calls. There are decent planetaries out there. Just have to track one down.

Will you be dual feeding the directs and using a billet shaft forward drum? Do you have a copy of the atsg manual and the ckperformance book? What core are you starting with? Vb and gov with the right setup go a long way when fooling with the 2004r.


Here is a list of parts so far :)

Billet Overdrive Carrier $139.99
Upgraded Lockup Solenoid $21.87
#4 Pump Selective Washer $13.00
Rollerize Rear Internal Gear $39.99
10 vane Pump kit $24.99
hardened Sunshell $20.89
Rollerized Center Support $39.99
Transgo Shift Kit $129.95
rollerized L/R Clutch Housing $55.99
Heat treated Stator Support $60.00
Hi Pro 1-2 Band $32.99
Art Carr Supper Rebuild Kit $289.99
Billet Input Drum $299.00
Billet Direct Piston $49.00
Billet pump rotor $139.99
Billet input shaft $249.00
Billet forward Piston $79.00
Monte Carl SS Governor $95.00
Billet Overdrive Ring Gear $119.00

I will most likely not dual feed the 3rd clutch as most of my fun will be the 1-2 shift. The transmission is a 89 core KJF. Here is a picture of my car... I just built a forged everything 350 SBC with about 420 HP. It currently has a Turbo 425 (from a motor home) which can handle anything, but I want 4 gears so I can run a bigger Rear (currently a 9 inch with 3:25)..

004.JPG
 
If you're just throwing a 10 vane rotor in the stock pump, you need to get ahold of a depth mic and verify pump clearance.
 
I tapped the pins out with a punch and hammer, replaced the thrust washers. Then tapped the pins back in and tack welded them. Careful of the needle bearings.
 
If you're just throwing a 10 vane rotor in the stock pump, you need to get ahold of a depth mic and verify pump clearance.

The pump vane is .7078 and the slide is .7074 without the oil seal ring installed and they rotate freely in the pump housing. (I do not have a depth gauge that accurate), but I think I should be good?
 
I tapped the pins out with a punch and hammer, replaced the thrust washers. Then tapped the pins back in and tack welded them. Careful of the needle bearings.

Thanks, I just ordered the harden pin front and rear Carriers from Extreme Automatics. That should make me feel a little better and a little poorer :)
 
At least measure the old rotor vs new, preferably with a micrometer and not a dial caliper.

What servo are you going to run
 
I tapped the pins out with a punch and hammer, replaced the thrust washers. Then tapped the pins back in and tack welded them. Careful of the needle bearings.

Where did u get the pins. I tapped one out and it mic out at .393?

Thanks
 
At least measure the old rotor vs new, preferably with a micrometer and not a dial caliper.

What servo are you going to run

Everything was dead on and then I made a stupid mistake and pressed out the front bearing in the wrong direction ( stupid stupid me) and broke the pump lip. Now I had to buy a new pump and hope that the slide and rotor is the same as the new billet rotor that I paid over 100 dollars for. Fun Fun
 
I have done that mistake too....presssed out wrong direction. Ruined a perfect 690 pump. Called CK and what was another few hundred for a new pump. Was not happy.
 
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