Questions from the track.

Here is a sample of how the software works, but theres alot more if you read the manual for days.
 

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If your looking for an innovate rpm converter to go with your lm-1 I will sell you one a brand new spare one i bought along time ago at a great deal. The rpm converter allows you to graph rpm and any 0-5 volt inputs, like boost, and tps. The software is a very powerful tool that lets you do many neat things. Your best results for tuning are in 3rd gear always. The lm-1 very sensitive to even pickup misfires as it will show as lean spikes on your datalog. The egt should be placed right before the turbo if your is in the dp it will show 200-300 degress lower than before the turbo.

My EGT is right before the turbo so I think I'm good there. I'm wondering if I really need to have the EGT and the wideband.

How far away should the wideband be from the turbo? I read that if you get it too close to the 'cat' (test pipe) any leaks will throw it off (and I know I have a leak there).

How many inputs does the RPM converter have? I'm always frustrated by DS lack of inputs - particularly boost. What are the system requirements for the software? My laptops are pretty old....this will start to add up $$-wise.

Thanks!

Jim
 
Here are the laptop requirements:

1.1 Specifications
Computer requirements
Operating System Windows 98 or later
Computer speed 500MHz Pentium 1 or faster
RAM Min. 48 Mbyte
Hard Disk space Min. 100 Mbyte free space
Display Thousands of colors, 800 x 600 Min.
Other 1 free serial port or USB to serial converter

You can connect 4 inputs 0-5v plus the rpm input. I would put it about 8" from the turbo. I usually put them just past the bend before the heater box.
 
Jimmy

Could you post the exact specifics of your build? I went to your website and the engine build is not detailed, also you have to update it.

That T70 has more in it.

You are also short shifting the car, I would atleast bring it up to 5800-6000 rpm range.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
Jimmy

Could you post the exact specifics of your build? I went to your website and the engine build is not detailed, also you have to update it.

That T70 has more in it.

You are also short shifting the car, I would atleast bring it up to 5800-6000 rpm range.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

Billy,

I know the T70 has more in it - my PT61 did too! I need to figure out what's going on. I'm letting the trans shift itself - I guess I could shift manually. I still have the boost low, too.

The engine was done by Dan Smith in Camden a few years ago (4 years at this point, maybe even 5). He did a lot of work on the stock heads, port matched the intake and put a custom ground cam in it (didn't tell me the specs). It's punched .040 over and has forged pistons in it (I don't recall the brand). I have billet main caps but no girdle on it.

I'll check out my mods page and update it.

Thanks,
Jim
 
If you are going to check out the converter, I would bring the trans back to Chris and have him take some weight of the governor to increase the shift RPM.

This is my opinion: What I found out with lock up converters after a certain range they begin to hamper you. I went with a non-lock up and the car ran better.

You put more power into the car you will have to address the converter. The HP level you are at now, you might be blowing through the converter. You might have to send it back and have it tighened up.

What were your ETs?

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
If you are going to check out the converter, I would bring the trans back to Chris and have him take some weight of the governor to increase the shift RPM.

This is my opinion: What I found out with lock up converters after a certain range they begin to hamper you. I went with a non-lock up and the car ran better.

You put more power into the car you will have to address the converter. The HP level you are at now, you might be blowing through the converter. You might have to send it back and have it tighened up.

What were your ETs?

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

If I bring it back to Chris I'll have him fiddle with the shift RPM. I have a lot of $ invested in this Vigilante so I'm going to try to make it work. If I have to go with another converter I'll definitely go non-LU. I'm sick of lock-up converters not locking - I've been plauged with this for years and with many converters.

My ETs were crappy. I couldn't get any traction. It was cold and someone was leaking antifreeze all over the track from the starting line to the timing booth. When I stopped to pick up my slip the guy said I was leaking something. He put his finger in it and said it was coolant. But it wasn't me...it was whoever was there before me.

Anyway to answer your question - best run was 11.9 @ 114.74. The rest were high-11s or 12.0s. When I ran a 13.1 @ 114 I decided I was wasting my time and quit for the night.

EDIT: Would goofing around with the TV cable move the shift points up?

Jim
 
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