Pulling transmission
- Thread starter kymover
- Start date
turbojimmy
Supporting Member
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
Un bolt it, take it out, bolt it back in 
I just did this this past weekend so the memory is fresh. I'm by no means an expert, but here goes:
1) get the car as high as you can - all 4 wheels off the ground. Let the rear axle hang by the suspension. This drops the axle down far enough so that it's easier to get at the 4 7/16" bolts that hold the u-joint in place - remove the driveshaft
2) unhook the speedo cable
3) unplug the electrical plug on the LH side of the trans
4) remove the shifter cable and linkage
5) remove the TC cover
6) remove the 15mm nut on the trans mount
7) put a jack and a piece of plywood or whatever you have laying around under the pan. Jack it up a little to take the weight off the mount. Remove the crossmember (2 15mm bolts on each side)
8) realize that the speedo cable is attached to the crossmember. Unbolt it.
9) Up top now: remove the coilpack and the bolt that holds the wiring harness in place at the back of the intake. This will allow you to get at the top two bellhousing bolts. Note the ground wires attached to the RH top bolt as well as the bracket for the dipstick tube
10) remove the TV cable from the bracket on the upper intake. Just pinch the top and bottom of it and it will pop out - no need to mess with the adjustment. Make sure it 's free to come down with the trans
11) go back underneath. Unhook the trans cooler lines. Pray to your favorite deity that the top one comes out with just a wrench - use a line wrench. If it strips good luck getting vise grips up there. The lower one is easier to get at so if you strip it you can get vise grips on it
12) remove TC bolts. You'll need to keep the engine from turning somehow. Someone told me a clever way to do this once but I don't remember. I jam a screwdriver in a notch on the flexplate and the block. Requires a lot of eye-hand coordination and always results in bloody knuckles. Push the TC back into the trans 'til it bottoms out.
13) Round up as many 3/8" drive extensions as possible and put a universal on the end w/ a 9/16" socket. Try to get at the "middle" bolt on the LH side (there are 6 in total - you've already removed the top 2). Realize that you are trying to get the socket on the alignment pin. Re-position your worklight and realize that the bolt is a bit higher and harder to get at. The remaining 3 bolts aren't as bad.
14) Wiggle the tailshaft - the trans should break free of the engine. This is where you'll see how well you've positioned the jack under the trans. The TC is heavy and will cause the whole thing to tip forward. It's very difficult to re-position the jack now.
15) pull the trans back a bit and look around and make sure everything is unhooked. At this point you'll want to pull the dipstick tube out. It it easier to let it hang there than to try to bring it down with the trans - it will hit a bunch of stuff and knock the trans off the jack.
At this point you'll realize that step one should have been to drain the trans. Unless you want to bathe in trans fluid, drop the pan and drain the trans first.
16) Assuming everything is free, lower the trans and wheel it out from under the car.
17) Reverse steps 1-16 for re-install. Go to the doctor to get that hernia taken care of after wrestling with that thing on your back.
Good luck - it's not that bad.
Jim
I just did this this past weekend so the memory is fresh. I'm by no means an expert, but here goes:
1) get the car as high as you can - all 4 wheels off the ground. Let the rear axle hang by the suspension. This drops the axle down far enough so that it's easier to get at the 4 7/16" bolts that hold the u-joint in place - remove the driveshaft
2) unhook the speedo cable
3) unplug the electrical plug on the LH side of the trans
4) remove the shifter cable and linkage
5) remove the TC cover
6) remove the 15mm nut on the trans mount
7) put a jack and a piece of plywood or whatever you have laying around under the pan. Jack it up a little to take the weight off the mount. Remove the crossmember (2 15mm bolts on each side)
8) realize that the speedo cable is attached to the crossmember. Unbolt it.
9) Up top now: remove the coilpack and the bolt that holds the wiring harness in place at the back of the intake. This will allow you to get at the top two bellhousing bolts. Note the ground wires attached to the RH top bolt as well as the bracket for the dipstick tube
10) remove the TV cable from the bracket on the upper intake. Just pinch the top and bottom of it and it will pop out - no need to mess with the adjustment. Make sure it 's free to come down with the trans
11) go back underneath. Unhook the trans cooler lines. Pray to your favorite deity that the top one comes out with just a wrench - use a line wrench. If it strips good luck getting vise grips up there. The lower one is easier to get at so if you strip it you can get vise grips on it
12) remove TC bolts. You'll need to keep the engine from turning somehow. Someone told me a clever way to do this once but I don't remember. I jam a screwdriver in a notch on the flexplate and the block. Requires a lot of eye-hand coordination and always results in bloody knuckles. Push the TC back into the trans 'til it bottoms out.
13) Round up as many 3/8" drive extensions as possible and put a universal on the end w/ a 9/16" socket. Try to get at the "middle" bolt on the LH side (there are 6 in total - you've already removed the top 2). Realize that you are trying to get the socket on the alignment pin. Re-position your worklight and realize that the bolt is a bit higher and harder to get at. The remaining 3 bolts aren't as bad.
14) Wiggle the tailshaft - the trans should break free of the engine. This is where you'll see how well you've positioned the jack under the trans. The TC is heavy and will cause the whole thing to tip forward. It's very difficult to re-position the jack now.
15) pull the trans back a bit and look around and make sure everything is unhooked. At this point you'll want to pull the dipstick tube out. It it easier to let it hang there than to try to bring it down with the trans - it will hit a bunch of stuff and knock the trans off the jack.
At this point you'll realize that step one should have been to drain the trans. Unless you want to bathe in trans fluid, drop the pan and drain the trans first.
16) Assuming everything is free, lower the trans and wheel it out from under the car.
17) Reverse steps 1-16 for re-install. Go to the doctor to get that hernia taken care of after wrestling with that thing on your back.
Good luck - it's not that bad.
Jim
turbojimmy
Supporting Member
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
Re: TRans Cover Bolts
No I don't - sorry. Mine aren't right either - there are 3 different kinds holding the cover on. If you have one that works see if you can dig up 3 more like it.
Jim
No I don't - sorry. Mine aren't right either - there are 3 different kinds holding the cover on. If you have one that works see if you can dig up 3 more like it.
Jim
Drain the pan and remove it. Remove the TV cable retaining bolt and unbolt the TV bracket from the valve body. Unhook the TV cable from the wire link and pull the TV cable away from the case. Tie the TV cable to the side so it is out of the way. Remove the dipstick tube bolt and push the dipstick tube out of the case from inside the tranny. Take digital pics of the TV linkage before removal, if possible. How the heck does that linkage go together?? LOL!!!
