pros and cons for a stroker

The long rod stuff was going on a lot back in the day when grumpy Jenkins and smokey yunick were building hi perf. Engines because the cylinder heads they were working with was factory stuff and they wouldn't flow the air that heads flow today,so they would use longer rods because they dwell (stay) at tdc and bdc longer than a short rod to give a little more time for cylinder fill.Not a problem in this day and age with all the good heads out their floating around,now days guys run heads with runners that are too large and the runner velocity is so slow they wonder why the engine runs like a turd.About the only advantage of the long rod now days is you have less cylinder wall friction at 90 degrees of crank rotation which is always a good thing, less heat less friction and less cylinder bore wear, all bad things,other than that,not much gained.
 
The long rod stuff was going on a lot back in the day when grumpy Jenkins and smokey yunick were building hi perf. Engines because the cylinder heads they were working with was factory stuff and they wouldn't flow the air that heads flow today,so they would use longer rods because they dwell (stay) at tdc and bdc longer than a short rod to give a little more time for cylinder fill.Not a problem in this day and age with all the good heads out their floating around,now days guys run heads with runners that are too large and the runner velocity is so slow they wonder why the engine runs like a turd.About the only advantage of the long rod now days is you have less cylinder wall friction at 90 degrees of crank rotation which is always a good thing, less heat less friction and less cylinder bore wear, all bad things,other than that,not much gained.
If you use long rods and good heads.
Would that be a good idea?
For a street / strip car
 
If you use long rods and good heads.
Would that be a good idea?
For a street / strip car

What he is saying is that it really doesn't matter these days if you go long or short rod.

But for someone who thinks a billet 4340 crank is the same thing as a forged 4340 crank, you are going to want to have someone else pick the parts and do the work for your engine. No offense, but you are better off paying a professional to build your motor than trying to make decisions like that on your own....judging from your few statements I've read so far..
 
What he is saying is that it really doesn't matter these days if you go long or short rod.

But for someone who thinks a billet 4340 crank is the same thing as a forged 4340 crank, you are going to want to have someone else pick the parts and do the work for your engine. No offense, but you are better off paying a professional to build your motor than trying to make decisions like that on your own....judging from your few statements I've read so far..
What he is saying is that it really doesn't matter these days if you go long or short rod.

But for someone who thinks a billet 4340 crank is the same thing as a forged 4340 crank, you are going to want to have someone else pick the parts and do the work for your engine. No offense, but you are better off paying a professional to build your motor than trying to make decisions like that on your own....judging from your few statements I've read so far..

I understand what he's saying but that's not what I was asking.
Anyways I'll wait for him to reply
 
Does it need or like more RPM?


A good example is longer set of cranks on a pedal bike. It creates more torque but ultimately limits rpm. Will you ever reach that point? No. The cam and valvetrain are the RPM limiting factors. They will fall short way before the rotator.

A stroker motor makes a great street stip car. Plain and simple, It makes more power.
 
A good example is longer set of cranks on a pedal bike. It creates more torque but ultimately limits rpm. Will you ever reach that point? No. The cam and valvetrain are the RPM limiting factors. They will fall short way before the rotator.

A stroker motor makes a great street stip car. Plain and simple, It makes more power.
I see.
I believe it will be good for what I want then.
I’m going to have a engine built soon so I want to learn as much as possible.

I have some more questions if you don’t mind.


If everything else is the same.

stock stroke with long rods.
Or if you’re going Stroker.

Will there be a big horsepower difference between the two?

And will a stock stroke with long rods be a good choice for the street ?
or the stroker be better?
 
I see.
I believe it will be good for what I want then.
I’m going to have a engine built soon so I want to learn as much as possible.

I have some more questions if you don’t mind.


If everything else is the same.

stock stroke with long rods.
Or if you’re going Stroker.

Will there be a big horsepower difference between the two?

And will a stock stroke with long rods be a good choice for the street ?
or the stroker be better?
Here's some tech for you:
http://www.strokerengine.com/rodstroke.html
 
^^^ Great link Big D. The best sentence in the whole article: "When building a performance motor we are constantly challenged with compromises"

Ernie GN
A real stroker has a longer throw crank. Personally I would choose a shorter rod to keep more meat on the piston but that's just me. You will get different opinions.

From my experience a stroker motor makes more power than a standard stroke but it can be offset by simply turning up the boost. That is the beauty of turbocharging.

Most of the engines I do are std. stroke. They are more cut and dry. Strokers need attention to crank to block and crank to cam clearances.

Do as much reading as you can. Come up with your own conclusions. Feel free to message me if I can help in any way.

Good Luck
 
Last edited:
^^^ Great link Big D. The best sentence in the whole article: "When building a performance motor we are constantly challenged with compromises"

Ernie GN
A real stroker has a longer throw crank. Personally I would choose a shorter rod to keep more meat on the piston but that's just me. You will get different opinions.

From my experience a stroker motor makes power than a standard stroke but in can be offset by simply turning up the boost. That is the beauty of turbocharging.

Most of the engines I do are std. stroke. They are more cut and dry. Strokers need attention to crank to block and crank to cam clearances.

Do as much reading as you can. Come up with your own conclusions. Feel free to message me if I can help in any way.

Good Luck
Thank you!
I I definitely will read lots.

The more and more information I get it’s points me towards going stroker.

What I want as much in result is a high 10 seconds low 11’s build. With 93 Octane only nothing else. So that means I can’t have too much boost.

From what seems I’ve learned.
a good set of heads ,cam ,intake and turbo with exhaust system would get me there. A good tune also.
Trying to figure out if I should add in the stronger or not.

I seen YouTube video of a guy run 11.3@126 mile an hour. The lunch was pretty soft.
This would be my goal.
I’ll post a link
 
^^^ Great link Big D. The best sentence in the whole article: "When building a performance motor we are constantly challenged with compromises"

Ernie GN
A real stroker has a longer throw crank. Personally I would choose a shorter rod to keep more meat on the piston but that's just me. You will get different opinions.

From my experience a stroker motor makes power than a standard stroke but in can be offset by simply turning up the boost. That is the beauty of turbocharging.

Most of the engines I do are std. stroke. They are more cut and dry. Strokers need attention to crank to block and crank to cam clearances.

Do as much reading as you can. Come up with your own conclusions. Feel free to message me if I can help in any way.

Good Luck

Here is the link.

I’ll take you up on your offer to help me
 

Here is the link.

I’ll take you up on your offer to help me
A stroker motor would be a waste of money for the goals you have set.

I run a stock stroke and the first time at the track I ran a 12.3 @ 98 with a 2.2 60 ft.
I had shitty DRs and haven’t been to the track in 20 yrs.

That was on 17# boost and I had an exhaust leak at the turbo that wiggles itself loose


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A stroker motor would be a waste of money for the goals you have set.

I run a stock stroke and the first time at the track I ran a 12.3 @ 98 with a 2.2 60 ft.
I had shitty DRs and haven’t been to the track in 20 yrs.

That was on 17# boost and I had an exhaust leak at the turbo that wiggles itself loose


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That’s what I’m also thinking. I don’t want to spend the money if I don’t have to
 
That’s what I’m also thinking. I don’t want to spend the money if I don’t have to

But.
I am running E85, champion iron heads, billet cam ported intake and 6466 turbo.
Later I found out the #4 cylinder exhaust valve was bent so that may have counted for the slower times [emoji23]

Anyways those champion heads are fixed and freshened up with a 3 angle valve job. They will be going up for sale soon along with the rocker arms. Don’t mean to personally plug.


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On 91 to 93 octane pump gas?

Some may not understand the extent of anti-detonation strategies.

Everything is in my sig. I use to run alky but got to the point of getting scared of the pump failing or getting weak during a run...or something going wrong with the alky system. E85 isn't available, so I use race gas. Whatever you're using, you're shooting for zero KR. Tuning requires you to understand where your engine sees KR. Temp, humidity, air quality, timing, AF and boost all comes into play. I've been racing this car for 15 years...and every weekend I hit the track I'm always learning something new. Far to many people are told if they bolt a bunch of stuff to their car that they'll instantly go out and run X for a number. Get to the track...get some seat time...and learn is the honest and best advice I can give.
 
Everything is in my sig. I use to run alky but got to the point of getting scared of the pump failing or getting weak during a run...or something going wrong with the alky system. E85 isn't available, so I use race gas. Whatever you're using, you're shooting for zero KR. Tuning requires you to understand where your engine sees KR. Temp, humidity, air quality, timing, AF and boost all comes into play. I've been racing this car for 15 years...and every weekend I hit the track I'm always learning something new. Far to many people are told if they bolt a bunch of stuff to their car that they'll instantly go out and run X for a number. Get to the track...get some seat time...and learn is the honest and best advice I can give.
That's exactly why I don't want to use alcohol just another thing you have to worry about making sure it's working properly.

Race gas is too expensive for me to be using all the time and b85 not everybody has it at your pumps.

So that's why I chose to work with 93
 
One of the locals went 11.01 on 93 with a 6131DBB...off the shelf PTC 2800 NL...TA heads...stock stroke 109...Cottons FMIC...boost 20 lbs. 60 foot was an easy 1.7x. Get yourself a good set of heads and a good convertor.
 
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