possible bad cat convertor?

86grdnatl

Member
Joined
May 26, 2012
Just a quick question. My car is an 86 and has the original catalytic convertor on it still. My car runs pretty hot (in the 200's most of the time). I am going to have the radiator flushed, and am going to install a new thermostat asap.
1.) Would a clogged or bad cat also contribute to my temperature problem?
2.) Also, would i restore any potential lost horsepower by replacing a bad cat?
3.) One last thing. Would it be better to intall a new 160 or 180 degree thermostat?
 
The thermostat I'd go 160 so it opens sooner and keeps you cooler, replacing the cat will increase horsepower for sure if it's original but removing it all together if possible is the way to go IMO. I really don't think a bad cat would contribute to engine heat, but I could be wrong on that one. if it's restricing flow enough it could make the engine over work itself, but you'd probably feel it by that point.
 
Ok thanks alot for the reply. I was looking into just removing it and putting in a test pipe but as it turns out, its illegal and i wont pass inspection. I forgot to mention that my car has 165,000 miles on it. I replaced the muffler on it not too long ago so i figured i'd ask the forum to see if it would be a good idea to replace the cat on it as well.
 
With a clogged cat you won't hit much more than 5-8 lbs of boost
 
I would go with a 180*. There is a lot of debate about engine wear vs. engine temp and it seems that the 190*ish range is optimal. I forgot the website that actually has a chart with research on it.
For the cat, take it off and take a look thru it. If you can't see the other side, it is broke and could be fixed with a screwdriver and/or hammer. They make emission chips for inspections.
 
Lucky me in ontario, canada my car doesn't need emissions testing. I'd still get a big ticket though if I get caught.
 
Get the racing converter, it's usually much cheaper, running around $200.00 the last time I saw one. They come in varying diameter inlet/outlet sizes. If you already have your d/p, you can have a bolt-together flanges welded on and make installation and removal much easier.
Also check the drivers side header for a crack, which is common for loss of power and usually limits the boost to about 8-10#'s.
If you still have the stock chip, the 180 will work, but I would run the 160 w/a TT chip unlell you're in a continually cold climate. then the 180 would probably be more advantagious.
 
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