Please help... I have 3 questions

[MyBoosta]

Okay guys,

Here is what happened to me, I blew an oil seal out of my TE-44 about three weeks ago, it was oil coming out if the space between the exhaust turbine and the DP running down to my wastegate flapper and dripping on the lower radiator hose. In other words, it was oil every freaking where. A buddy of mine said that he has never seen a turbo oil seal blow out that bad. I got the turbo rebuilt and reinstalled it with out any problems.
I also dyno the car just because I felt like it and doing it again today since its cool out unlike the 90* ambient and 80% or so humidity of my last session.

Okay here are my questions:

1) Do I need to replace my mufflers? Every time my exhaust gets hot the car smokes at stop lights like if I was doing a burn out. Yes, I removed the DP to check if the turbo was leaking oil again and nothing, she is perfect. I open the dump and no crazy smoke, just the normal stuff. Once I cap the dump, smokes flows out if the tail pipes. I think my nice SS ATR mufflers may be full of oil…this sucks!

2) When on the dyno, HOW DO I lock the converter so I can get correct readings? I was thinking about shifting it manually from 1st to 3rd, then flooring the gas at 3,000 rpms or so.

3) On my last dyno I noticed that my A/F were below the 10.0 mark. Heck, my A/F is fat even though my Scanmaster read in the 789 to 777 range. I think my car likes to be lean. I pulled a little bit of fuel on the TT chip and the car picked up about 12rwhp and 30rwtq. A/F was still in the 11.0 to 10.6 range. For you guys who have done some dyno tuning, what A/F does your GN typically likes? I have about an hour and a half of dyno time this afternoon with my car; I am shooting for A/F in the 11.8 to 12.0 range thus putting me about 12.3 on the road. Screw the O2 reading on the scanmaster, as long as I am NOT knocking, and the car is continuing to make power, I am leaning her out….well, not too lean, I’m not crazy.

Thanks for your inputs:smile:

 

[salvageV6]

Pin F the tan/blk wire on the aldl connector under the radio when switched to a good ground should lock your converter.

Just leave the car in D on the dyno and go slowly into third gear and then lock the converter so you can feel it bring the rpms up to 2.5K or so and then signal the dyno guy to record.

Medium smooth throttle to not cause any downshifts up to your top rpm of 5500 or so is all you need.

I like 11.5-11.6 or so on the dyno. with 93 pump gas and alky., no KR.

I don't change anything for the track either, 12.3 on the road would be a bit lean in MHO.

Sooner or later the oil will be out of the mufflers, just drive it until it burns out.

 

[MyBoosta]

Pin F the tan/blk wire on the aldl connector under the radio when switched to a good ground should lock your converter.

Just leave the car in D on the dyno and go slowly into third gear and then lock the converter so you can feel it bring the rpms up to 2.5K or so and then signal the dyno guy to record.

Medium smooth throttle to not cause any downshifts up to your top rpm of 5500 or so is all you need.

I like 11.5-11.6 or so on the dyno. with 93 pump gas and alky., no KR.

I don't change anything for the track either, 12.3 on the road would be a bit lean in MHO.

Sooner or later the oil will be out of the mufflers, just drive it until it burns out.

Okay, so the F pin option on the ALDL will NOT cause the trans to violently hit and thus heat up the trans too much?

You said pull to 5,500...man, we pulled to 6,200 last time!

11.5 to 11.6...cool. I'll see how she does at that setting. But I will try 11.9 and see what comes out. When my car was pushing 730's O2 on the road about two months ago (cooler air) it was rocking and I NEVER ever got any knock. I don't know why I fattened her up to 780 to 800... that seems to fat for her as seen on the A/F readings (10.2's )


Yeah, I could keep driving the car while she smokes, but man it looks yuky Oh well!

Thanks for the help

 

[notacarlo]

6,200....i'm guesing this car has had head/valvetrain/cam work? If not you are pushing it.

 

[salvageV6]

Generally speaking rich or fat you can tell from the previous dyno. graphs exactly where the power starts to drop off with a cam or stock cam.

However if it's a stock cam. don't rev it past 5500 or so.

Locking the transmission at lower rpms when it first gets into third gear will minimize the "hit" it shouldn't heat the tranny up too much each pull.

Obviously a cool down of 10 minutes would be about normal between each pull for adjusting/cooling etc., leave the big front fan on high that is at every dyno shop for air cooling.

If you can separate the pipe behind the cat. area if there's that much oil in the system you might be able to drain it out there or at some other exhaust joint that's easily removed and reattached.

 

[MyBoosta]

Well guys,

The car pulled 326/395 with an 11.8 A/F almost through the whole rpm range.

Air temp was 94*; this was an above ground dyno, so getting a decent amout of air was a little difficult since you cannot put a fan(s) directly in front of the car.

I did 6 pulls and 3 of those were back to back; it was free but time was not on my side. The guys at the shop were running behind on their work, so I was pressed to pull and make way for paying customers.

We allowed the trans to shift into third in D, then at 3,000 rpm, the operator squeezed into the throttle. Was this method correct? I've seen people lock up converters and stab the gas for higher numbers or whatever, but I was more concern with the tuning aspect of my car and not a high dyno sheet. However, I think my car has a 350/410 in her in a cooler day.

What are your takes?

Thanks

 

[salvageV6]

What boost and timing this time?

What kind of dyno. Mustang or Dynojet or other?

Operator sounds like he did the right thing each time.

I lock up on the dyno. since I lock up in third gear at the track, my numbers were accurate for the times I run when I plugged them into a racing calculator.

You'd probably hit the 350 if you locked it up in third gear.

 

[MyBoosta]

What boost and timing this time?

What kind of dyno. Mustang or Dynojet or other?

Operator sounds like he did the right thing each time.

I lock up on the dyno. since I lock up in third gear at the track, my numbers were accurate for the times I run when I plugged them into a racing calculator.

You'd probably hit the 350 if you locked it up in third gear.

Salvage V6,

The boost was hard to read since the needle was all over the place (vibrating), but I did see it flash to 24psi. This is with C116 leaded fuel and timing set to 26* via a TT race chip all on a dynojet dyno. I should run it up to 28* and see what happens.

I think this Texas heat it's what is killing me. It's pretty humid around here and the sun is already showing it's muscles and it is only late May. Every time I had dyno this car, the air temps are 92* or higher .

I don't know, should my results be higher considering I have a TE-44, Dutt neck, homemade CAI kit, LT1 springs, THDP no cats, ATR duals, 340 hot wired, 50lbs inj, boost adjusted to 25psi and racing fuel?

I wonder if my little cone 6" K&N filter from my old Mustang which is connected to a 3" flexible air inlet tube which then travels into a 3.5" pipe to my LT1 maf is restrictive? I doubt it. I could go to PEP Boys and buy a true 3" opening 9" long K&N cone filter and some true 4" flex tubing and see if this helps.

Also, and it just occured to me, I never ever did put a fan into the air filter so it can draw air cooler air. The little shop fans always pointed at the grill/intercooler scoop. I've seen cars pick up as much as 8rwhp by simply giving them higher volume of air to breathe. Who knows, maybe I am reaching, or maybe this car is weak and that is all she got. She does not use one drop of oil and she seems very tight, so I can complain too much.
Once I get her dial one more time, then it's track time and that's it.

What do you think?

Thanks