Pic of a Camshaft Roller Sprocket please

J-B Racing

Forced Induction
Joined
Sep 16, 2003
Yesterday I just finished assembling the Short Block of my S2. I installed the Cam and Chain, but seems like the Rods are hitting the Cam Lobes. I am thinking that the Dot on the Cam Gear in not in the right location. But this Motor ran before and I cannot get in touch with the seller to ask. I seen this before and thinking that this is the case. I am posting my Gear so someone can see if theirs has the Keyway and the dot in a different spot. I cannot see otherwise.

Thanks
 

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Make sure the "0" is next to the keyway if you want the cam straight up, then line up the dots and it should be correct. The dot should not be lined up with the keyway. The numbers on the gear line up with the keyway depending on if you want it advanced or retarded, then rotate the crank to line up the dots.
 
Sounds like your rods might not be clearanced for the stroke you've got. Most rod manufacturers offer rods that are machined for a stroker set up however if you're running a large cam it might not be enough. Without wanting to sounds like a smart ass are the rods installed the correct way up?

Neal
 
Gears are in right. I compared the New Rods to the old and they are the same width.
I will figure it out.

Joe
 
Joe,

Are the rods clearanced on the big end adjacent to the rod bolt on one side?

Neal
 
Re check your lower gear I don't know the indexing for rollmaster lower gear but check that first. Find 0 an the lower gear and put it on the key way then check it.

Steve
 
Joe,

Are the rods clearanced on the big end adjacent to the rod bolt on one side?

Neal

Neal,
That seems to be it. The New Carrillo's are not quite like the other I took out. See pics.
That is where it's hittng the Lobe.
Now I have my thinking Cap on and will decide which way to go.

Thanks
Joe
 

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Neal,
That seems to be it. The New Carrillo's are not quite like the other I took out. See pics.
That is where it's hittng the Lobe.
Now I have my thinking Cap on and will decide which way to go.

Thanks
Joe

Yeah, you will need to clearance the new rods and hope your balancing is not to far out of wack when completed.
 
Yep......anyone that has built a big power Buick V6 has run into this. Usually all it is is the actual rod bolt that sticks out, too far on the top side. (threaded end). Torque the rod to full value (in a vise using a stretch gauge) and then grind smooth to the rod. May take a bit more off of the rod, too. And because it is on the rotating end of the rod, you shuld have them re-balanced. Take it back to the orginal balancer and it'll be pretty easy for them to fix it. Also check the rod bolts for clearance with the bottom of the cylinders, too. (socket side of the rod bolt) They usually hit there, too. Also check the top of the rod to the bottom of the pistons. It can get a little tight there. Always mock up all the rods, pistons (w/o rings), crank, timing chain, gears (properly degreed in) and give it a spin and use a small mirror and bright flashlite to check EVERY clearance there is. Cam to rod, Rod to block, crank throw to main webbing, oil gallery plugs to cam thrust, piston to valve clearance, (use modeling clay and weak valve springs), Thrust clearance, ect. Also on StageII engines you need to verify all the oil holes are drilled, especially behind the #1 cam bearing. If you are running a mechanical roller cam, and externally feeding the rocker shafts, then you don't need to drill the drivers side transfere hole to the lifter gallery. If it isn't drilled and it's assembled, just run a transfere line at the back of the block. If it ran before with no issues, then disregard the oiling hole issues. When using a green(virgin) StageII on-center block there is more than meets the eye on prep work.
 
... When using a green(virgin) StageII on-center block there is more than meets the eye on prep work.

I would advise anyone check the oilling on any block, not just a virgin. I doubt many of the circle track on-center blocks had the oil transfer hole drilled even in use. Mine didn't. That would have been a really bad suprise had I not noticed it when doing the lifter valley work on my block.
 
This Motor ran in the past and made big power ( 1200 RWHP ) I had to replace the Pistons and Rods. I really did not think the Rods were slightly different until I got to the point of Turning the Assembly. I am equiped to Balance Pistons, and Rods. I will fix this.
Thanks for your inputs guys. Always appreciated.
 
Tg you found it. This is what destroyed my 274" S2 engine after swapping in a larger cam with engine in the car (sigh). It had about .005" clrnc so wasn't obvious when I turned it over by hand. And obviouly forgot about this issue. Oops. First time wound up to 6500 at full power and.. ka-chunk ka-chunk :(

As Ken said above, it was the rod bolt thread portion slightly extended past the rod that hit the lobe, not the rod itself. Takes some serious mirror work and oddball measuring techniques to get to if the engine is already assembled, but a must do.

TurboTR
 
Tg you found it. This is what destroyed my 274" S2 engine after swapping in a larger cam with engine in the car (sigh). It had about .005" clrnc so wasn't obvious when I turned it over by hand. And obviouly forgot about this issue. Oops. First time wound up to 6500 at full power and.. ka-chunk ka-chunk :(

As Ken said above, it was the rod bolt thread portion slightly extended past the rod that hit the lobe, not the rod itself. Takes some serious mirror work and oddball measuring techniques to get to if the engine is already assembled, but a must do.

TurboTR
Yes..All fixed and assembled. No wonder that the other Carrillo Rods were shaped like I saw. I had to make the new ones the same way. Used a Mirror, re-balanced all the Rods. Here is how it looks for now.
 

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