Phoenix pressure bleeder system ?

tom h

Active Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2001
Any user comments on this Phoenix system?

Mfr: Brake Bleeders : Phoenix Systems
FAQs: Brake Bleeders, Brake Flushing by Phoenix Systems, LLC
Hot Rod mag article : P118330 Image Large Photo

Phoenix's big selling point is the optional "reverse pressure flush", ie forcing fluid at 10-15 psi, from the wheel cylinder to the master cylinder.

I've also seen them being sold on ebay for substantial discounts (claimed "factory refurbished"). But, does make me wonder if units are being excessively returned or replaced for there to be a reasonably steady supply of "refurbs" on ebay.
 
Bleeding

I'm Not Sure About Reverse Flushing. There Is A Lot Of Rusty Sediment In The System That Would Be Pushed Back In To The Reservoir, And Then, What About The P/m Motor? There Are No Check Valves In The Master Or Brake Valves. Brake Fluid Will Drain Right Thru The Entire Brake System By Gravity. The Cap Must Be Loose. Whenever I Have The Wheels Off Of My Car, For Any Reason, I Open The Bleeders, Loosen The Cap And Let It Drain, While Pouring New Fluid In The Top. I Also Drain Off P/s Fluid, And Pour In Clean Whenever I Can.
 
I'm Not Sure About Reverse Flushing. There Is A Lot Of Rusty Sediment In The System That Would Be Pushed Back In To The Reservoir, And Then, What About The P/m Motor? ...
That's a good point.

There "shouldn't" be any sediment, but if there is and it gets pushed up, that could cause all sorts of grief.
 
I dont know about reverse flushing brake systems. they say it works good. but like said above .sending fluid the wrong way back up to the master? sounds expensive to me. with all the crap that builds up in a brake system moisture/ copper /rubber. the best thing to do is replace all lines with stainless and change fluid once a year. it is not cheap. But nothing is cheap with these cars.
 
Phoenix's big selling point is the optional "reverse pressure flush", ie forcing fluid at 10-15 psi, from the wheel cylinder to the master cylinder.

No thanks.
I'll stick with my vacuum method and suck the contaminants out of the system and away from the expensive P/M. Calipers and cylinders are substantially cheaper.

Yearly (or bi-yearly) flushings of fluid are essential for brake system life.
 
I dont know about reverse flushing brake systems. they say it works good. but like said above .sending fluid the wrong way back up to the master? sounds expensive to me. with all the crap that builds up in a brake system moisture/ copper /rubber. the best thing to do is replace all lines with stainless and change fluid once a year. it is not cheap. But nothing is cheap with these cars.

It is amazing when you change out your stock brake lines with the stainless ones how the fluid stays cleaner. It also does not hurt to put a in line filter in the system.
 
Pull return line from reservoir. cap off reservoir where line came off. fill reservoir with clean fluid. disable fuel pump. have someone crank car over as you pour new fluid in reservoir. do it till its clean. the only reason i disable car from running is that if car starts it will empty out reservoir and you can get air in system. hope this helps
 
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