Pete's big id thread

[That GN Guy]

Hello,

My name is Pete and I'm posting a large picture oriented thread. I'm hoping some people who have been around turbo regeals for a while can id some of the modifications to my Gn. I bought the car in Hawaii in 2006 and it's been sitting in my parents driveway in NJ for the last 10 years. I plan on trailoring the car home in a month or two and getting to work.



Can anyone id the turbo or wastegate? How about the intake, heads, or block? The car has a max effort thumb wheel and an smc alky kit.

Last time I drove it in 06 it was running 15psi and the alky and n20 was disconnected, there is also a co2 sprayer for the intercooler.

I drove this car for a short time before it sat in Jersey while I got my career in order. I'd like to bring it back to life properly and I'm hoping to get some preliminary information before I start tearing into it. I appreciate any info provided,

-Pete

 

[That GN Guy]

Here's a few more pictures I meant to post before I fat fingered that post.

 

[That GN Guy]

It was banished to the driveway because I was moving around for work and an injector stuck open and cooked the turbo seals. It was rebuilt by precision and injectors were never purchased. It is currently with my parents mechanic getting new injectors from turbo tweaks. I asked them to get the car running and I'll handle it from there. Thanks again folks,

-Pete

 

[Boost231]

Atr wastegate, can't tell on heads or block with those photos.

Intake? Stock unless your taking about the air filter setup?

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

[That GN Guy]

Atr wastegate, can't tell on heads or block with those photos.

Intake? Stock unless your taking about the air filter setup?

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

That's the kind of response I'm looking for. I know the pics aren't the best for identifying parts but they are what I've got for now. I'm not familiar with stock or modded gns and am searching the forums for what I need to know to get things running right.

My other fun car is a supercharged 383 lt1 camaro which I built from stock so I'm not completely inept in the motorhead realm.

When I get the car home I'll take a closer look to see if it's a stage block or not.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Would be interesting to see what jets are in the N2O nozzles!

 

[John Larkin]

That is probably a TE44 turbo, maybe a TE61. Common from that era.

 

[Pronto]

I would be leary of the alky kit. The pump sitting for that long could be leaky. I don't believe SMC is still around and replacement parts might not be easy to find. I would recommend a new kit from alkycontrol. Much better design and quality. You don't want any issues with alky, bad things happen in a blink of an eye if you do. The external wastegate is an ATR, which is out of business. It's got a frontmount probably from ATR or maybe Ken Bell. It's narrow and long. Not a bad design but not popular design now. Does the turbo exhaust say Precision on it? Could be any of their TE's of that Era or even a rebuid that is a hybrid. It's not a bb. Maybe a te60? What size injectors did you put in?

 

[Mike T]

Hard to tell but it looks like you my have ATR headers as well.

 

[seedling]

Hi Pete,

I'm no expert by any means and not nearly as knowledgable as these guys. As they have given you some amazingly helpful information already. However, I can relay my first hand experience of reviving my car from the dead. As I just resuscitated her in 2014 (and she had been sitting since 2005 as it turns out).

I followed the spring cleaning from the gnttype website almost to a T (I don't use Fram filters). And even then I was met with a few surprises!

First I'd drop the tank and check it close (I thought mine was fine as everything looked clean once I got the gas turned varnish out of it). However, I had fueling issues ever since and just last week added a new tank. So check the tank closely as the surface rust up top is what almost killed nine. And you may as well plan on a new pump because chances are its toast! Mine was.

Getting my car running was fairly uneventful as it was running / driving fine when it was parked (AC compressor froze up mid summer so it sat and sat and sat)!

The thing that I wasn't really prepared for was the power master failure. And I see that your car still has yours as well. First test run all was fine, got back and was checking over a few things when the power master started smoking. I immediately pulled the power (disconnected the battery). And then I pulled the fuse to the powermaster. I was told it might just be the ball. However, after a little research I elected to convert my car to hydro. Which was not difficult at all and man what an improvement (over no power brakes at all)!

I know you said your parents mechanic is getting it running. However, there are a lot mechanics these days who have never even seen nor heard of a power master brake system! So just be prepared and make sure your guy knows what he's doing or it could cost you!

Also I had to upgrade my injectors, pump, add an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, a new turbo tweak chip and put an LT 1 MAF and translator on my car before it was even safe! I'm sure someone far more knowledgable than I will chime in on that though! But the point is waking one of these cars up is not like just any other car as they need upgrades and updates just to be safely run. So be careful and don't run it hard till you know what you've got there! But, the folks on this board are well above Gold Standard dude so you are in good hands and you will not be steered in the wrong direction! That's for sure!

Good luck! Here is the spring cleaning link I was telling you about!

http://www.gnttype.org/maint/basics.html



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[That GN Guy]

Thanks again folks. The exhaust housing on the turbo does say precision in it, I pulled it and sent it to precision for a rebuild back in 06, the compressor side has been sanded down and polished by a previous owner. I can't find the paperwork on it either. When I drove it years ago it took a long time to spool. From a dead stop it would take to about 30 or 35mph to get spooling.

That old alky kit will probably get replaced and not rebuilt. Injectors are 60lb high impedance, the old ones were 55lb low impedance. The tank was dropped by the shop on Friday and I asked them to put in a walbro pump in it if the old one is toast. No idea what jets are in the nitrous nozzels, that will be dead last item to work on. First thing to go will be the pm unit, going to go with a vacuum setup. That spring cleaning thread is great btw, it's nice to have some part numbers.

 

[V6sleeper]

Some bizarre things going on under that hood,
as others said Atr wg,..and atr dp
atr or kb headers
Looks like a te-60 or 61
appears to be a kenne bell big boy front mount as to both pipes seem to route to one side.
home made ram air.

 

[seedling]

Thanks again folks. The exhaust housing on the turbo does say precision in it, I pulled it and sent it to precision for a rebuild back in 06, the compressor side has been sanded down and polished by a previous owner. I can't find the paperwork on it either. When I drove it years ago it took a long time to spool. From a dead stop it would take to about 30 or 35mph to get spooling.

That old alky kit will probably get replaced and not rebuilt. Injectors are 60lb high impedance, the old ones were 55lb low impedance. The tank was dropped by the shop on Friday and I asked them to put in a walbro pump in it if the old one is toast. No idea what jets are in the nitrous nozzels, that will be dead last item to work on. First thing to go will be the pm unit, going to go with a vacuum setup. That spring cleaning thread is great btw, it's nice to have some part numbers.

You need to check with some of the other guys on here about the impedance of the injectors. In that, I have read something on here somewhere about high impedance being a problem with stock ecu? Not sure why exactly, however, iirc our cars need low impedance injectors???

I'm sure someone far more knowledgable than I will speak up and explain that one for you though!!

 

[John Larkin]

It's probably a larger turbo if it takes a while to spool. That could be a rich condition or wastegate problem also. More than likely you will need to get a higher stall converter and if you do, a trans cooler for insurance. Just buy a new dog house and get rid of the nitrous altogether.

 

[V6sleeper]

And the way that shifter looks and is leaning forward makes me think theirs not a 2004r in it anymore.

 

[Pronto]

Aftermarket shifter with the alky set to the activation button? Not what I would do. For me just one more reason to go with an Alkycontrol kit.

 

[That GN Guy]

I'm guessing the button on the shifter was wired to the n20 and not to the alky kit. The alky kit will be going regardless. I'll be sticking with 15lbs till I can get a new alky kit and verify everything else is working properly. I'll check a lot of wiring when I get the car home. I'll also take some pictures of the tranny to figure out what one is in there.

Some waste gate questions. Would a boost controller help spool time? Can the atr gate be rebuilt if needed since they are out of business? Will another gate fit in its place or would it need to be cut and welded?

Stock injector impedance is high, modded pcms can run low. Modded pcms can also run high with no ill effects. This was verified by turbotweak after the shop purchased high 60s. That way we know they will work without question.

The tank, hangar assembly, pickup, and pump were all shot, they are all getting replaced. New injectors are in as well.

Thanks for the info folks, I've learned a lot from reading your posts and searching the forum. I have an idea of where I'm going and what to do with the car when I get it home.

 

[Pronto]

I'm guessing the button on the shifter was wired to the n20 and not to the alky kit.

I don't think so, the wire runs right down the shifter and into the SMC controller. Either way glad you're upgrading to Alkycontrol. You won't be sorry.