paint or por15?

usetaboost

SAY CAR RAMROD!!
Joined
May 4, 2005
I have my engine out of the car. Before it goes back in I would like to "freshen up" the bay. I touched up th efirewall, turned out acceptable. Cleaned up the inner wells and power washed the hell out of the frame and trans tunnel. Should I bother on using paint on the frame or should I use por15. I don't plan on removing brake lines, etc. just taped them off.
 
usetaboost said:
I have my engine out of the car. Before it goes back in I would like to "freshen up" the bay. I touched up th efirewall, turned out acceptable. Cleaned up the inner wells and power washed the hell out of the frame and trans tunnel. Should I bother on using paint on the frame or should I use por15. I don't plan on removing brake lines, etc. just taped them off.

Personally i would go with POR-15.... just my opinion though .....THAN PAINT IT :eek: ;) .... Chassis Black/SemiFlat Black
 
Por -15

Im a big fan of this stuff, My GTO has it all under the car and all over the sanblasted frame. My Regal has almost all of the under side done in Por-15. paint it once and forget about the rust.
 
por 15 sounds the way to go. I'll stop by the local paint and body store and see if they have some. Is it ok if I get a little on the lines? Or is that stuff super sticky like tar?
 
usetaboost said:
por 15 sounds the way to go. I'll stop by the local paint and body store and see if they have some. Is it ok if I get a little on the lines? Or is that stuff super sticky like tar?

Not sticky at all its just like paint.... you will have to do some prep first... Marine Clean Degreaser and then treat with a zinc wash? type stuff - then you just paint it on.... You will see when you get it.
 
i used both por-15 and rustoleum. the rustoleum to me seemed just as good as the POR-15 and half the price. I havent had any problems with the rustoleum yet.....
 
IMNSHO Por-15 (a single component, moisture cured urethane) is superior to any conventional air-drying enamel. You can tap cured Por15 with a hammer, and it won't chip.

Por15 is somewhat more difficult to work with and more $$, than "regular" paint. It is hard to apply without leaving some brushstrokes. Buy the smallest amount possible, because once the can is opened, it will harden within a few months (storing it in a refrigerator prolongs life).

Before painting, Definitely read all the tech info at http://www.por15.com

I have applied Por15 directly over the OEM waxy/greasy coating on frames, and it still seems to adhere well. i don't have the resources to do a body-off sandblasting & repainting of the frame.
 
Well i just sanded my entire rear end then primered it with rustoleum primer, then painted over it with the blacvk rustoleum enamel rust preventative, and it looks badass! 5 months later, still shines like new!

i painted the tranny support bar, same way primer then gloss black enamel, excellent!

i did the entire floorboards and 1 yr later everything is perfectly in tact, i check it everytime i do an oil change and its just the way i painted it,.
on the interior of my car underneath the carpet i used POR-15 paint for the inside, and when i lifted the carpet up for having my rocker panel welded in, i looked, and the paint looked good as well, i also painted my Hooker mufflers with por-15 and it is holding up and looks like the rustoleum as well.. i wouldnt put anything past the rustopleum, i have no complaints. like always there are mixed reviews, but both are very durable paints, just one is easier the purchase sinc eu can just grab it at home depot and not hafta order it, and its like 8 bucks cheaper. both the rustoleum and POR-15 give it a powdercoated look, but the rustoleum leaves no brush strokes at all, the POR-15 did..thats only what i noticed.
 
ScottyRegal said:
... 5 months later, still shines like new! ...
Give it 5 years ! ;)

I painted rear axle, diff cover, control arms, and some other parts with the rustoleum "red" primer and rustoleum topcoat, and after about 5 years, very light surface rust started to show through. The car is garaged & low mileage.

I live about a mile from the So Calif coast, and typical climate ranges from 45º to 80º with about 50-60% year-round humidity. In a drier climate (AZ, NV, etc) certainly would have lasted longer.

INMNSHO, if one wants permanence and to do the job once, then use por15, a 2-component epoxy, or some other 1-component curing urethane. In drier climates, or if 5-yr lifetime is acceptable, then by all means use the easier & cheaper evaporation-drying enamels.
 
thanks for the input tom.....I think i will try and keep this car longer than rustoleum will last.. hopefully haha ill be 29 by then DOH! so i guess when it does start to go i will hafta re paint it with POR-15. but im sure by then POR-15 will be a has been, there will prob be some new hotshot ppaint out there.
 
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