Overrun pressure test question

[turbo87regal]

I am in the process of rebuilding my transmission and am pressure testing all the components with air before assembly. Everything checks out except when I test the overrun clutch assembly, there is air coming out from the back of the input shaft and it seems like the air comes through around the overdrive carrier if I plug the back end of the input shaft with my finger while testing. I have taken it apart and re-done it three times and have the same result every time, the seals are ok each time I check them and the piston does move out and retract with pressure applied and released. Is this normal?

Also looking for opinions on dual feeding the direct clutch housing and should I take out the check ball from the input shaft or not?

This car is mainly driven on the street and I will be using a lock-up torque converter

Thanks

 

[turbo87regal]

Anyone

 

[darkhorsebob]

Just make sure the sealing rings on the input shaft are OK. The solid ring goes into the overrun clutch housing. Replace the bushing in the overrun housing also. If you want a firmer converter clutch engagement you can remove the check ball and capsule.

 

[turbo87regal]

Thanks for the reply darkhorsebob. I checked and also replaced the sealing rings to three solid ones to make sure that was not a problem with no difference so I ended up droping down and opening the front half of the transmission that was in my car witch was slipping to compare and that one is also the same so I guess its ok all I can think of is that its like that for lubrication of the bushing and planet assembly.

 

[Alky V6]

You must change the overrun clutch housing bushing. The bushing acts as the other sealing element for the apply circuit for the overrun clutch. Only one of the sealing rings on the input shaft is helping to seal off the overrun apply circuit. If you have a loose bushing, you will be leaking overrun apply oil.

The overrun clutch can survive a little crossleaking past the bushing. It's not one of those super critical areas.

Sorry for taking so long to throw my .02 cents in. This was a pretty cut and dry subject and figured one of the many experts here would have straightened you out by now. I kept seeing it in the list and figured, ahhh, that's a simple one to advise. Someone will pick that up real quick.

 

[turbo87regal]

Well it looks like I have to go out and find a new bushing for the overrun housing bushing along with the rest of the crap I'm missing.
I am pissed off and tired of dealing with buying and waiting on more parts for this "complete" kit I bought. First I was missing obvious things like the filter, pan gasket and a modified 4th clutch piston for the upgraded 3 friction clutch pack witch I assumed would come with the kit since you cant install the clutch pack without it (but it does not with their kit) When I contacted the seller it took about 4 weeks to get those pieces since they had been lost in the mail.
Now that I'm going through the rebuild I find that I still need to get the o-ring gasket for the filter, rear section selective end play washers, sun shell washers, a bushing for the overrun housing and two steel plates that were missing witch were all suposed to be included.

 

[Steve V]

Did you buy it from a vendor on here?

 

[Alky V6]

Just make sure the sealing rings on the input shaft are OK. The solid ring goes into the overrun clutch housing. Replace the bushing in the overrun housing also. If you want a firmer converter clutch engagement you can remove the check ball and capsule.

Actually, if you're talking about a factory arrangement, the solid sealing ring fits into the stator support. It would be the most forward location on the input shaft. A scarf cut sealing ring is used for the overrun clutch.

 

[chris718]

That kit was purchased from me.If it wasnt packed properly I would certainly take care of anything that isnt right in the package.We do mispack items,we are human beings that make mistakes.We dont include the 4th piston,but should make mention of the need to machine it for correct fit.I remember you phoning in and did send a replacement.We dont include the overrun bushing because most people destroy the drum replacing it,even when the bushing was good before it was removed.If you phone in ,I will send you a good overrun drum and any parts that werent in your order.That is what I can offer you.If you are using a lock up converter it is ok to leave the restriction in the input shaft.As far as dual feeding ,I reccomend it on every build.

 

[chris718]

yeah I thought of that immediately Don but didnt bother to post it.

 

[turbo87regal]

I did buy my kit from Chris and he did send me a machined 4th clutch piston to help me out witch I appreciate. I finally got a chance to call and talk to Chris again today about the overrun bushing and other things that I was missing and he was very helpfull, he took the time to answer my questions and gave me some pointers and promised that what I am missing will be sent out asap.

I appologize for venting in the previous posting but we all know what happens when you are up very late the night before working on the car just to find out that you are missing parts. The fuse gets very short.

 

[darkhorsebob]

Actually, if you're talking about a factory arrangement, the solid sealing ring fits into the stator support. It would be the most forward location on the input shaft. A scarf cut sealing ring is used for the overrun clutch.

I stand corrected on the sealing ring.
Chris is absolutely correct about the overrun housing bushing being a pain in the butt to replace.