Oil Leak, Intercooler recommend, Shifting, Spool-up

[HOFSGNX]

Just got a bone stock TTA and noticed quite a bit of oil residue and a drip that shows up on the oil pressure sending unit (at least that it is where it ends up - could be from a place higher up). Any common areas to look for the leak - oil filter seems to be on fine. Also lots of oil residue inside UP pipe and on top of Intercooler - is this just blow-by that needs to be cleaned - Engine does not appear to have ever been detailed (8,000 miles on the car).

I am in the process of cleaning the Intercooler (with our parts washer at work) - any other suggestions to get it to act more efficiently?

Last questions involves Stock Turbo lag and Shifting - any way to improve the spool up. Also the shifting on the car seems to be ok but it kindof double chugs when you are on and off the accelerator slightly.

Help is appreciated.

 

[src76ta]

I don't know about the other problems but my car had starting issues that turned out to be the sending unit you are talking about. Seems that over time the oil seeps through the unit and in my case caused an intermitten short. I changed the sending unit and solved the starting problem and the oil seep. My car has the same on and off throttle chug. I haven't driven the car enough to pinpoint the problem yet. I'm sure one of the guys on the board will have some good suggestions.

 

[72firebird]

for the oil in the intercooler and such it's typically cause by the breather that goes form the VC to the inlet on the turbo. Most people replace the hose with a filter on the VC and a plug on the turbo side.

For the oil leak I'm gunna agree with src76ta. I would just clean it up and keep an eye on the general vicinity regularly to try and find your problem.

For the lag there's not exactly a whole lot that you can do. The lag shouldn't be too bad stock. I would do a spring cleaning and change the plugs and do a compression test at the same time just to make sure things are good, it's always nice to know everything is running fine. Opening the exhaust up will help your spool some. Either running with an aftermarke exhaust or using a cutout or something will help. I replaced my cat with a cutout since there isn't any emissions in my area and it definatley helped.

 

[HOFSGNX]

Additional details, questions

Can you clarify a few things - where can you get this filter for the VC (Valve Cover) and the plug for the turbo side.

For the oil leak, where is a good source to get a sending unit.

Lastly, there is a very small "filter?" (the size of a pea it a pea was square) on the end of the red and black electrical type unit (the size of a hot wheels car) that sits on the passenger side VC behind the Turbo (I do not know what it is called) that crumbled apart while I was cleaning the motor - do I have to replace this "filter" and if so where do I get the part?

 

[72firebird]

Can you clarify a few things - where can you get this filter for the VC (Valve Cover) and the plug for the turbo side.

For the oil leak, where is a good source to get a sending unit.

Lastly, there is a very small "filter?" (the size of a pea it a pea was square) on the end of the red and black electrical type unit (the size of a hot wheels car) that sits on the passenger side VC behind the Turbo (I do not know what it is called) that crumbled apart while I was cleaning the motor - do I have to replace this "filter" and if so where do I get the part?

You can get the filter form pretty much any autoparts store. I just got one of those real cheap ones and then put it in the elbow for that tube. Then I got a piece of PVC, one of the plug things that would fit in the tube on the other end by the turbo and put it on the hose there and clmaped it in.

Forthat other filter, thats the boost solenoid. It adjusts the amount of air that goes to your WG. You don't really need the filter and most people don't even bother replacing them. If you're really wanting another one you can get them at www.johnsperformance.com

 

[HOFSGNX]

Thanks for the help. I have heard of some guys taking the tube right off and sticking the filter on the end of the passenger side VC just behind the Turbo. You say you used just a PVC plug to plug up the other end, I will have to look at it to see if I know what you are referring to. Is this other end of the tube plugged into the Turbo, if so what do you plug into the Turbo then?

On the other filter that is right it's the Boost solenoid, got it, now I remember.

Getting back to the oil leak, I have heard of issues with the "rear main seal" how hard is it to replace and where do you get the parts.

As for the slow spool up, I am trying to keep the car pretty much stock and have gone with a test pipe (I kept the cat in good shape, boxed up and can put back on at any time) and a modest exhaust change - I like a little rumble but not much.

How about an upgraded Torque Converter, will that help the spool up?

Another idea to help spool up is the Turbo Controller that Pete from ANS used to sell - where can you get one of those now that he is out of business?

Lastly, where can you get Spark Plug wires that say 20th Anniversary Trans Am on them, the guy I bought the car from does not know where they are.

 

[Lee_Burough]

....Snip....Last question involves Stock Turbo lag and Shifting - any way to improve the spool up. Also the shifting on the car seems to be ok but it kindof double chugs when you are on and off the accelerator slightly.

Help is appreciated.

Congratulations Henry!

Your car will probably perk up as you drive it. Its mostly been sitting in a garage somewhere. Driving will help things a lot. Put some Chevron Fuel system cleaner in there for the first few tanks....That will definitely help. Change the fuel filter too.

Improve spool up with a manual boost controller. Cut a piece of foam and place it over the open ends of the wastegate actuator. That is what I did, leaving the wastegate actuator on there and hooked up to the ECM -the ECM monitors the wastegate function, i didn't want a stupid code about it being unhooked. You don't need another converter just yet, unless yours is bad (unlikely).

Get a modern chip....That will probably get rid of a lot of the short comings of the original chip's performance.....Fewer chugs

lee

 

[Lee_Burough]

Web site for replacing rear main: here

 

[Lee_Burough]

....snip....Any common areas to look for the leak

Most common would be a valve cover or oil drain line between the turbo and the block, the turbo drain hose is sold by Johnsperformance.com. Good luck

 

[72firebird]

Thanks for the help. I have heard of some guys taking the tube right off and sticking the filter on the end of the passenger side VC just behind the Turbo. You say you used just a PVC plug to plug up the other end, I will have to look at it to see if I know what you are referring to. Is this other end of the tube plugged into the Turbo, if so what do you plug into the Turbo then?

On the other filter that is right it's the Boost solenoid, got it, now I remember.

Getting back to the oil leak, I have heard of issues with the "rear main seal" how hard is it to replace and where do you get the parts.

As for the slow spool up, I am trying to keep the car pretty much stock and have gone with a test pipe (I kept the cat in good shape, boxed up and can put back on at any time) and a modest exhaust change - I like a little rumble but not much.

How about an upgraded Torque Converter, will that help the spool up?

Another idea to help spool up is the Turbo Controller that Pete from ANS used to sell - where can you get one of those now that he is out of business?

Lastly, where can you get Spark Plug wires that say 20th Anniversary Trans Am on them, the guy I bought the car from does not know where they are.

For the breather you take the entire tube off that runs from the turbo to the VC. You use the elbow that pushes into the side of the VC and find a little filter at the local autoparts store that will fit in the other side of it. Then you use the straight hose piece that connects the turbo to the hardline and find a PVC plug at your hardware store. That way it will keep you form having the VC just open and it'll keep you from having the massive air leak between the turbo and MAF. I wish I had some pictures of when I had this setup on my car but I don't.

A torque converter will help spool a little off the line but I wouldn't get one on a stock car. The stok converter is plenty for these cars in stock form.

A manual boost controller is a good idea to increase spool time. Also what Lee posted will help by cleaning out the fuel system and helping the motor itself run better and more efficiently thus increasing spool time.

For the spark plug wires you're going to have to watch the forum, ask around some, and watch ebay. Expect to pay a $300+ for them in working order. Unless you are really wanting a completely stock TTA or would just like to have the memorobilia type stuff I don't think I would worry that much about getting them. Some people really like them, but hardly anyone keeps them on their car. I would definatley not keep them on my car when normally driving it.

 

[Sweet6]

I would do the "spring cleaning" in the FAQ section. Then get a new chip and maybe a manual boost controller. My TTA was in a poor state of tune when I got it and it was a dog. It runs like a rapped ape now. :biggrin: I ended up getting a killer deal on a set of 50lb inj and a GT3255.

 

[Quiky One]

Like others have said, DO NOT upgrade the torque convertor. Not needed. Change all the fluids, clean the air filter, put a new fuel filter on, and change the spark plugs/wires. It will run like a whole new car. Get a chip from turbotweak.com and you will be set if you want a good running stock car.

HTH Jason

 

[HOFSGNX]

Followup - Shocks, Coil Springs

Thanks guys for the info. This forum is awesome. Where would I get a MANUAL BOOST CONTROLLER and a SCANMASTER (tips on installation) - Precision Turbo in IN?

I found the oil leaks - The easy one is the oil filter, the other one has got to be the REAR MAIN SEAL - any advice on where to get a new one and how to put it on (got the install tip sheet from Lee above -Thanks).

I believe the COIL SPRINGS and SHOCKS need to be replaced (17 years old) - any suggestions here?

I also found my vacuum leak, it was the small hose going to the drivers side of the Turbo - I simply cut the last 1/2" off and reattached.

 

[Lee_Burough]

Buy KYB SHOCKS

 

[Sweet6]

I have the RJC boost controller. It is works good and it is cheap. Go to the main page for the vendor list. For the rear main seal, if it is not that bad you may want to leave it. You could get it fixed and it still may seep a little. If you pay to get it done, it might cost $200-$300.

 

[HOFSGNX]

Shocks & Coils

Do you have a selected model/part # for the KYB's Shocks/Struts?

How about the Coil Springs - Standard Height - Moog?

Thanks Guys!

 

[Quiky One]

I wouldnt change the rear main seal. I have changed mine and it leaks the same as before. The more you drive the car, the less it will leak. The shocks and struts are the same as any 1989 GTA. Dont know any part numbers. I would buy the scanmaster from Mike at fullthrottlespeed.com. He usually has the best prices. It is real easy to install also. It comes with instructions.

HTH Jason

 

[72firebird]

Do you have a selected model/part # for the KYB's Shocks/Struts?

How about the Coil Springs - Standard Height - Moog?

Thanks Guys!

The TTA suspension is pretty nice for autocrossing and just handling in general. Unless you're making a drag car I would leave it alone if nothing is wrong with it right now. One of the local autocrosses was telling me how he dominated the stock class autocrossing in this area for a long time with his stock 1LE Camaro. I live about 20 minutes from tire rack and they have events at their test track just about every weekend so there is a lot of good competition around here. If anything just stiffen up the car with some subframe connectors and a strut tower brace. Then get some good tires and maybe a couple other little minor things and it'll handle awesome.

 

[HOFSGNX]

Coil Springs

Thanks Guys, I have the KYB's coming but still having a bit of a problem tracking down the Coil Springs - nothing from Moog is available. Do I have to call Pontiac. Seeing that I am looking to freshen up a 17 year old suspension with 8,000 miles, do you think the coils are necessary to replace? If you think it is a good idea, does anyone have a line on which ones to get for stock height?

 

[Quiky One]

I wouldnt change the springs. They are almost brand new. Springs don't wear down hardly any and at 8000 miles none. Leave them alone and just change the shocks/struts. Good luck changing them considering you have to take the carpet up in the hatch to get to the top bolt on the shock.

Jason