oil change

J

jdl

Guest
Hi, someone told me, that when you change the oil and filter in a turbo engine that you needed to circulate the oil before starting the engine or turbo damage may result. I never heard that before, is that an accurate statement? thanks
 
Yes this is accurate. What you do is right by the battery you will see an orange wire, this wire sends power to the computer. Disconnect this wire and crank the engine for a few seconds to let oil pressure build up. Reconnect the wire and start your motor. This will eliminate any dry starts which can cause wear to not just the turbo but the engine. Click on the link for more information http://www.gnttype.org/maint/basics.html
 
Alternately, disconnecting the fuel pump relay would also prevent the engine from starting up, plus the ECM learned settings would be preserved.
 
That statement would be accurate if you drained the oil and waited several months to refill it and restart the car, in the dead of winter, in Siberia, and you floored the car on restart...

:D
 
hey guys, thanks for the posts. I was in a discussion on another site about whether to circulate the oil before starting the engine, after an oil and filter change. The discussion wasn,t turbo specific. But the turbo question did come up. One mechanic said, he only circulates the oil on forced induction systems, not the rest. Another mechanic said, you don,t need to do that even on turbos. He states that there is enough residual oil left in the turbo, so it won,t hurt anything as long as you don,t race the engine on start-up. Tech info says under normal conditions, most engine wear occurs at start-up. The mechanic said that the possiblity of engine damage is higher at cranking rpms than running. For myself, if I have to deal with no oil pressure, even for a couple of seconds while the oil circulates, then I would rather do it at cranking rpms than running rpms. I think alot depends on your rpms at start-up, meaning engine running rpms. Those start-up rpms is one reason you should get your engine good and hot before draining oil. If you have a carburetor with a choke, you don,t won,t the fast idle system to come into play on start-up, that could be 2K rpms or better. For myself,I don,t like to get the oil that hot, can,t handle the plug, plus the hot oil running down my arm. As far as a horizontal filter, go ahead an fill it with oil, let it set while you drain the oil, when you get ready for the filter, just pour the access oil in the engine there will still be quite a bit of oil in the filter element, every little bit helps. Does your owners manual or shop manual recommend circulating the oil before starting? great site, thanks for your replys. PS Do you consider engine start-up to mean cranking rpms---running rpms---or both--- to me it means running. thanks
 
The check valve in the filter tends to keep most of the oil in there while you flip it horizontal and screw it on. Cheap insurance even if a bit spills out.
 
I dont crank mine over becuase I run synthetic. Synthetic leaves a better film on the metal parts then mineral oils. At least that is what I tell myself when I pay $5 a quart:rolleyes:
 
I agree with blackbuick. If you pay a lot more, it MUST help you out, right?? :p I only crank mine when I first light it off in the springtime, after hibernation. Between oil changes I just stay out of the turbo until the oil pressure is up to a certain level. I run a synthetic blend.
Reading Chiltons this weekend, it says to pull the pink wire from the distributor before cranking it, after oil changes. Is that the ECM wire? I'm PRETTY sure that's what it said. I always go with the fuel pump idea, as to not reset the ECM. No fuel = no start. :cool:
 
I always fill my NEW filter about half way, disconnect the orange computer power wire, crank it over until the check engine light in the dash turns off. Then I Reconnect computer wire and fire it up, let it idle for a good 2-3 minutes then go for a nice and easy drive around the block. I know, it's probably over kill but so far so good...
 
I just fire mine up after filling it.

After all you had the car fully warmed when you drained it right?

Everything should still be lubricated.

Worked for me so far 15 years.
 
Originally posted by 1BADT
I always fill my NEW filter about half way, disconnect the orange computer power wire, crank it over until the check engine light in the dash turns off. Then I Reconnect computer wire and fire it up, let it idle for a good 2-3 minutes then go for a nice and easy drive around the block. I know, it's probably over kill but so far so good...

Smart man.:) I usually fill mine to at least 3/4's full,then screw it on.You might lose a small dribble on the side of the filter,but the anti drainback valve stops the oil and the threaded adator stops the rest,as noted.No I'm no engineer[;)],but the way I figure it,it's not good to pump air through your engine at any time.I am however a Machinist/Industrial Maintenance Mechanic.I don't design em',I just fix design flaws and keep em' running.:D
 
thanks for the posts. I guess there are several reasons to get your oil good and hot before changing. One of which is to prevent any fast idle circuits from kicking in, when you start the engine. But just remember if you get the oil that hot, you can,t handle the oil plug. The oil pan, exhaust, anything you touch is hot. And you want to talk about a hot potato, wait till you get ahold of the oil filter. I do warm the engine up a little,but I don,t let it get that hot, on older engines, non-turbo, i have had trouble with the fast-idle-circuit coming into play, and you can sure hear the valve-train clatter until the oil gets circulated. I guess, I need to get the engine just a little warmer and work a little faster, so the engine doesn,t cool off,or just circulate the oil with the starter. They do make prelubers for the engines, but unless the vehicle sits for a long time, it probably isn,t worth the expense. I guess, you just use whatever system gives you the most peace of mind. No right or wrong about it. thanks
 
If your engine is in decent shape,as long as you fill the filter,you should have No problems,fast idle or not.Always err on the side of caution.The temps shouldn't matter,as long as you're not dead cold.
 
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