Noise in dash/electrical issue causing some very goofy things. Code 42

[krisking94]

as the title states I believe I have a ecu connection somewhere going bad. I had a code 42 pop up a week or 2 ago. igiton control system or ecu connection somewhere is bad. Had no apparent issue besides just the light kicked on for a short drive. Deleted it and it hasn't come back but ever since I've had this clicking noise under the dash start to occur( driver side, to the right of the steering column I believe) started with just the clicking noise now when the clicking noise starts to happen my led light next to the boost gauge for my razor alky control starts to flicker (that's supposed to come on red when the alky starts to spray then goes green) then this morning same thing taking s right turn clicking noise starts to occur light flickers then I notice my volt light on the dash started to flicker. Parked the car at home and tps was very right( out of the idle range, and I just replaced the IAC a week ago and had my tps set to .44) shut the car off because the idle would go down past 1600. Waited and hour started it back up to go to work tps was still very high it eventually went back down to .46 by the time I got to work but I watched it for a second while parked at my job and I could see it jump from .46 to .48. Any help would be appreciated, this is my only means of transportation at this time.

 

[krisking94]

The clicking noise seems to sound like a relay, I wonder if my issue is caused by how I mounted the brain box for the alky kit. It's under the dash mounted to the Colum bracket.

 

[Nick Micale]

My first suspect would be the 30+ year old ECM?

With one of my stock street cars I was going across town and the engine would loose power for a mile or 2, and it then would be normal for a few miles.

Installed the scanner when I returned, and it showed about 15 codes?

Never seen that many at one time ever, so I changed the ECM and it ran fine.

We can expect to see more ECM issues in the future.

 

[krisking94]

My first suspect would be the 30+ year old ECM?

With one of my stock street cars I was going across town and the engine would loose power for a mile or 2, and it then would be normal for a few miles.

Installed the scanner when I returned, and it showed about 15 codes?

Never seen that many at one time ever, so I changed the ECM and it ran fine.

We can expect to see more ECM issues in the future.

Would you suspect a bad ecm connection at all? Are they ways to tell your computer is bad without swapping it out for a known good one?

 

[krisking94]

My first suspect would be the 30+ year old ECM?

With one of my stock street cars I was going across town and the engine would loose power for a mile or 2, and it then would be normal for a few miles.

Installed the scanner when I returned, and it showed about 15 codes?

Never seen that many at one time ever, so I changed the ECM and it ran fine.

We can expect to see more ECM issues in the future.

I also just went to autzone to get my battery tested to make sure it's still good to rule that possibility out. They hooked everything up and tried to run the test but it kept saying open connection/car is running. The car was shut off.

 

[krisking94]

Alternator voltage regulator possibility???

 

[TurboBuRick]

Sounds like a few different issues.

Unplug the ecm and look for corrosion in the plug sockets. Also remove chip and retention the pins in the chip socket.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

^^^ What Rick said. Check to see if you can detect the presence of rust/water, above the ecm pocket.
If the ac box seal @ the firewall leaks, the ecm will get wet. being it's plug side up, makes it even worse.

 

[krisking94]

Was running fine last night after I parked it and this morning I have a no start issue. Cranks and cranks but just won't start. Last 3 months new fuel filter, fuel regulator and fuel pump. New IAC and MAF

Sounds like a few different issues.

Unplug the ecm and look for corrosion in the plug sockets. Also remove chip and retention the pins in the chip socket.

 

[krisking94]

^^^ What Rick said. Check to see if you can detect the presence of rust/water, above the ecm pocket.
If the ac box seal @ the firewall leaks, the ecm will get wet. being it's plug side up, makes it even worse.

Crank no start now. When I tested battery and alt the other day they both passed but there was a moment at idle where my volts had dipped down from 14 to 11 then shot back up again

 

[krisking94]

Maybe ignition control module cause I did have the code 42 that appeared a couple weeks ago then i deleted it and it never came back

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Sounds like a good time for a 100% inspection, cleaning of all connectors, harnesses, including grounds, fuse links, etc.

 

[krisking94]

Sounds like a good time for a 100% inspection, cleaning of all connectors, harnesses, including grounds, fuse links, etc.

Is there a link for all the ground locations and fuse links

 

[krisking94]

Also what makes me lean towards the IGN module is I could not hear the pump prime this morning nor was I getting any FP at the rail while cranking. If the module it bad it won't supply power to the pump but may still allow the car to power accessories and crank.

 

[RmvBfrFlght]

The short fuel pump prime at key-on, engine-off is between the ECM and fuel pump relay. No ICM involved. Also, build 4 psi of oil pressure via cranking and the oil pressure switch will activate the pump without using the relay. Although many of the oil pressure switches have been removed or at a minimum the connector has failed.

Near the alternator is a gray wire with a fast-on connector on the end. Jump that to the battery positive. The pump should run as it bypasses both the relay and oil pressure switch. It sends power directly back to the fuel pump.

There are four connectors between that wire and the fuel pump.

RemoveBeforeFlight

 

[krisking94]

The short fuel pump prime at key-on, engine-off is between the ECM and fuel pump relay. No ICM involved. Also, build 4 psi of oil pressure via cranking and the oil pressure switch will activate the pump without using the relay. Although many of the oil pressure switches have been removed or at a minimum the connector has failed.

Near the alternator is a gray wire with a fast-on connector on the end. Jump that to the battery positive. The pump should run as it bypasses both the relay and oil pressure switch. It sends power directly back to the fuel pump.

There are four connectors between that wire and the fuel pump.

RemoveBeforeFlight

Well I got home unplugged orange battery wire and started the car and it fired right up. Only thing is now my car is for some reason not in open loop anymore (running a TT chip) and idle feels rough. Let it run for a bit. Turned it off then turned it back on and it was back in open loop.

 

[krisking94]

Sounds like a good time for a 100% inspection, cleaning of all connectors, harnesses, including grounds, fuse links, etc.

Is it possible my alky kit is installed wrong and it's causing funny issues? The alky kit is working how it should. Sprays fine. High boost no knock. Lights up red when it starts to spray then the led turns green as it should.

 

[Sleeper-6]

I had some goofy code issues that would randomly show up and put the car in limp home mode (not good with the 72lb injectors), they would be cured by kicking the panel that the ecm was behind. (highly scientific troubleshooting) Anyway, I got a can of DeOxit and cleaned the ECM connector and chip sockets. Seemed to cure it, the issue hasn't come back since.

 

[krisking94]

^^^ What Rick said. Check to see if you can detect the presence of rust/water, above the ecm pocket.
If the ac box seal @ the firewall leaks, the ecm will get wet. being it's plug side up, makes it even worse.

Okay so I'm getting closer I believe. Disconnected the alky and the clicking noise went away. Connected it again and it's back. I can't tell if it's coming from the brain box or where it connects into the fuse box. Strange though cause the alky still functions just fine. Could that be the cause of some of my electrical issues and the no start issue I had the other day?

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Okay so I'm getting closer I believe. Disconnected the alky and the clicking noise went away. Connected it again and it's back. I can't tell if it's coming from the brain box or where it connects into the fuse box. Strange though cause the alky still functions just fine. Could that be the cause of some of my electrical issues and the no start issue I had the other day?

Leave the alky off, turn the boost down, and drive it.
Call Julio, and ask for his opinion.