So I ordered Cottons new vac. block/hard line kit. Mainly for the cool factor of cleaning up the engine bay. I've got GN1 VC's with K&N's. I'm debating eliminating the PCV unless I'll get some unwanted side affects. Anyone else done this with good results? Thanks.
No PCV, worse case scenerio?
- Thread starter davidf
- Start date
Then a vacuum pump would be in order.
Thanks for that. I'll do some digging.
The PCV system aside from being an emissions control, removes condensation and acid buildup from the crankcase, suspended in the form of vapor. Removing the PCV system will immediately start a condensation/moisture issue in the crankcase. Years ago I did a head job on a car and in rushing forgot to put the pcv valve back in the valve cover, in the 1/2 hour it ran to warm up I had developed condensation under the valve covers and oil cap. Plugging the pcv back into the valve cover cleared it up in 5 minutes. So I know it does work. I personally wouldnt remove it. Its not hurting anything other than maybe leaking a little oil thru the grommet onto your intake, and its keeping the crankcase from collecting bad chemicals.
If you want to use a vacuum pump, size it (pump, orifices, hoses, breather) to maintain a negative pressure in the crankcase. The benefit is less/no pumping "whoosh" from the pistons travel being opposed by air.
If you want to use a vacuum pump, size it (pump, orifices, hoses, breather) to maintain a negative pressure in the crankcase. The benefit is less/no pumping "whoosh" from the pistons travel being opposed by air.
TURBOPOWERED68
David
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2006
i pulled the PCV and after 2 days it went back in, the fumes from the breathers whir coming into the car and it was terrible.
Just ordered a new pcv valve, gromet, and an inline check valve for the pcv valve from kirban. Supposedly the check valve helps in pressure leaking past the pcv when under boost.
Anyone else use one of these check valves before the pcv? Sorry dont want to Jack your thread.
Anyone else use one of these check valves before the pcv? Sorry dont want to Jack your thread.
1KWIKSIX
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2007
PCV Valves and Inline check valve for PCV system
You may find (like I did from my own personal experience with the same factory AC Delco PCV Valve and in line check valve) that your BLM's may increase with this combination. A quick and inexpensive fix is to pick up AutoZone's PCV 1162 valve. You should find that this PCV valve will bring down your BLM's. Should you still have BLM issues.....change over to an inline check valve on your PCV line with a low crack pressure or remove the spring entirely from the check valve.
dave
You may find (like I did from my own personal experience with the same factory AC Delco PCV Valve and in line check valve) that your BLM's may increase with this combination. A quick and inexpensive fix is to pick up AutoZone's PCV 1162 valve. You should find that this PCV valve will bring down your BLM's. Should you still have BLM issues.....change over to an inline check valve on your PCV line with a low crack pressure or remove the spring entirely from the check valve.
dave
I'll continue running the PCV. I'll just have to figure how to adapt the hard line to it. Time to put on my creative hat.
The only thing I see being a problem would be the volume needed to properly evacuate the pressure in the crank case. If I am not mistaken the hard line setups are 5/32" hard vaccum line.
For the use of the hard line on the PCV system you would need to setup something with the proper amount of volume vacuum resevoir?? Or you would need to just do everything in the hardline except the PCV?
Not sure just talking theoretics since I am interested in the solution you would go with..
I may consider everything in hardline less the PCV. Thats a good thought. I may tap into the plenumn for the PCV. Keep it simple.The only thing I see being a problem would be the volume needed to properly evacuate the pressure in the crank case. If I am not mistaken the hard line setups are 5/32" hard vaccum line.
For the use of the hard line on the PCV system you would need to setup something with the proper amount of volume vacuum resevoir?? Or you would need to just do everything in the hardline except the PCV?
Not sure just talking theoretics since I am interested in the solution you would go with..
Was thinking of something. Looks like you coud make it nice long as those nice little catch cans can hold vacuum and not leak.
I think if you went something like this with a resevoir with a one way check to prevent boost from getting in the resevoir you could tuck the resevoir underneath the fenderwell. Then you can send a line from the resevoir to the catch can / filter tucked inside somewhere easy to get to and then tap into the pcv with a nice full sized line and plumbed nice and neatly.
I figure something like this the most expensive peice would be that nice little catch can someone posted earlier. The resevoir wouldnt cost much and would look nice and probably function nicely I would imagine.
Sorry was another post about the pcv catch can. Getting the threads mixed up. It can be found here nice little catch can needless to say.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick-tech/323565-pcv-catch-can.html
I think if you went something like this with a resevoir with a one way check to prevent boost from getting in the resevoir you could tuck the resevoir underneath the fenderwell. Then you can send a line from the resevoir to the catch can / filter tucked inside somewhere easy to get to and then tap into the pcv with a nice full sized line and plumbed nice and neatly.
I figure something like this the most expensive peice would be that nice little catch can someone posted earlier. The resevoir wouldnt cost much and would look nice and probably function nicely I would imagine.
Sorry was another post about the pcv catch can. Getting the threads mixed up. It can be found here nice little catch can needless to say.
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/general-turbo-buick-tech/323565-pcv-catch-can.html
What you're doing is reducing a metered and accounted for vacuum leak, which means you have another problem or miscalibration that hasnt been addressed. Again, I dont see the point of a check valve in addition to the PCV valve, other than someone made a few bucks selling a redundant device.
But then again, ask Ron Joseph.... I am an idiot.
1KWIKSIX
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2007
Hi Jim,
I was told by several knowledgeable turbo members to use an inline check valve in my installation.
Since I'm running my PCV line from the PCV Valve into a catch can.....on a forced induction applications an inline check valve is recommended to prevent pressurization of the catch can under boost conditions.
Pls see last comments on attached installation sheet from the manufacturer.
dave
TURBOPOWERED68
David
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2006
i recently bought a ACdelco PCV and it leaked i then picked up an inline check valve from Check Valves | U.S. Plastic Corp. and i also replaced the charcoal's canister check valve and i had to turn down the RJC boost controller 2 full turns. if these check valves hold up on this car i will definitely put them on my Regal as well.
BTW with the check valve in place i now have a lot less oil all over my valve covers.
BTW with the check valve in place i now have a lot less oil all over my valve covers.
