No boost...Again?????

[Hotair85]

Hey all,

About a week ago, I popped a T-stat gasket and repaired it. I get done and I had no boost....again!!! A while back, I made a post about it not making any. It seemed to fix itself after a while so I thought it might be a vacuum leak on one of the lines to the TB from the PCV. (had a crack in it) I fixed that...still nothing. I figured it had to be the wastegate actuator. Bought a new one. Still nothing. Played with FP a little...nothing. You get the idea.

I have a TA-49 that is retrofitted to a hotair config. (I was wrong in saying it was a TA-33) I sold it to a friend of mine and bought it back when he wussed out and converted to an 86-87 setup. He had the turbo clocked down a tiny bit. When I put it on, I noticed the arm from the actuator had to be bent upward a little to get it to work. Is there a chance that that might be my problem? Does it need to be in a certain position to work correctly? Would that explain why it worked and then didn't? Everything is correct, even the infamous "Y". Could a bad MAP be to blame also? Any input will help. I'm at a loss.

 

[1QUICK85]

If you get no boost at all that is telling you that something is opening that exhaust puck to early or your car isn't building boost.
You got any exhaust leaks? (it would have to be pretty big or right by the exhaust puck)
What happens if you run the wastegate actuator in "tuner style" ? Thats were you run one vacuum line from the turbo to the wastegate actuator.....deletes the wastegate solenoid and cap one end of the "Y". If you try this just ease into the throttle the wastegate should open the puck at around 14#....so just ease into it to see if you get any boost at all.
The position of your rod could cause problems, but I use to run mine all the time at an angle without problems.
Does you exhaust puck move freely?(puck isn't getting stuck open?)
Do you have your rod tight enough that you have to pull the rod out like 1/4" to get it on the exhaust puck? You need pressure on that rod!

Careful running the TA-49 with stock injectors.......you will run out of fuel and kill your motor!

-Nick

 

[Hotair85]

Tried all that and still nothing. I'll try tightening it more. Didn't realize it had to be THAT tight. I only pulled it out about 1/8" and it didn't get any faster. My fuzzy logic would dictate that if I ran it loose as hell then tightened it from there it would make at least a LITTLE difference.

EDIT: It's running perfect, it just feels like I have a really nice...well...Regal with an N/A 3.8. Exhaust leaks are, of course there. Tightened up my downpipe some and there's the typical leaks on the passenger exhaust manifold. neither of those hindered the stocker.

 

[1QUICK85]

I looked at your pictures and your wastegate arm looks like it could go up one spot on the turbo and sit more straight. I would definatly try and get that sucker straighter.
You have a aftermarket boost gauge you are going off of?

If you really want to see if you making boost..........tie your wastegate puck shut with wire..........give it quarter throttle.............you will know in a hurry if your motor is building boost...........EXTREME CAUTION MUST BE TAKEN WHILE DOING THIS! :biggrin:

 

[1QUICK85]

So, your stock turbo works just fine?? You only have problems with TA-49?

Another wild shot is the oil return line is bent/kinked..........will cause low boost problems.........don't ask how I know this!!

 

[Hotair85]

hmmm, I was kinda hoping to avoid ripping the turbo off. If I gotta do it, I gotta do it though. What are the symptoms of a bent oil return? No boost gauge. Just T-link.

 

[1QUICK85]

Bent oil return would also cause smoke out the tailpipes. Actually now that I think of it, it wasn't even the stock line.....I custom rigged it....disregard the bent line theory. :redface:
You definatly need to invest in a boost gauge...........how can you be sure your not getting some boost? Absolutly need a boost gauge to properly diagnois these cars!!
Can't you unbolt the wastegate and move it up one hole on the turbo....or does it hit the hood then?
I would fix any exhaust leaks before the turbo....they are just hurting your performance.
Here is another thing to try............run it down the road without the air filter on it..............my air filter was getting heat soaked and eventually my car would suck the filter shut when the turbo kicked in. Worth a shot...
Honestly the TA-49 isn't going to do much over your stock turbo until you run bigger injector and more boost. I would go back to the stock and save the life on your TA-49 until you can properly support it. Just a thought....

Checkout e-gay for cheap gauges:
boost gauge, Car & Truck Parts & Accessories, Other Vehicle Parts, All matching items for sale.

 

[Hotair85]

I have 37# injectors. From my research when I built the car, that was adequate for the TA-49. I could be wrong, but the same guy who sold me the turbo also sold me the injectors. It worked for him with a similar setup to what I have.

Air filter is fine, by the way. I'll try moving it up tomorrow. That was actually running through my head.

I would think, however, that it would either work or it wouldn't if the arm angle was messed up. The problem I have seemed to go away and return.

How about the actuator solenoid. Y'know the one on the top of the valve cover. Could it possibly be an electrical issue thereof?

I checked T-link, as I have the boost-sensing harness. It says it is getting like 5lbs or a little less at WOT. I still don't hear the turbo spool. Before, I'd hear it if I goosed it while stationary.

EDIT: No smoke at all out the tailpipes so yes, that puts the kinked oil return to bed.

 

[1QUICK85]

I totally didn't see the injectors in your sig.......your good to go there.
OK, so you get about 5lbs or less........your getting something. I wouldn't pull the turbo just yet......try to tighten that arm up and pull it out with a plyers and put it on the puck.
Hard to believe that if you run the wastegate tuner style without the solenoid(on the valve cover)that you can't get more boost out of her.
And you restrictor side of the "Y" is facing the turbo?
Still running a cat?

 

[Hotair85]

Test pipe to hooker aero-chambers fed by a a 2.5" ATR DP. The pics I have are with the stock turbo, by the way. WG actuator worked fine with the stocker. I put it on the TA-49 and poof, it eats it. Then it fixes itself, then it eats it last week. I mean, you definitely can hear the turbo spool when she's working. You DEFINTIELY can't hear shyte anymore. That's without touching the adjustment at all after the boost stopped. This is more than baffling.


P.S. I appreciate your help a lot.

 

[1QUICK85]

Sounds as frustrating as my old '85......
Only thing that would make sense to what you are saying is the exhaust puck getting stuck open(causing car to build no boost) or the wastegate rod fell off the puck...but obviously you would notice this crap!
Could have a buddy try doing a brake stand in the car while you watch to see if the wastegate arm is opening....if it is opening and you got no boost.....it simply just opening to fast..........which could be fixed by running the wastegate configuration different or could be sign of a fault wastgate spring.(I know your is new)
Just trying to throw ideas at you.

 

[Hotair85]

I'll try tightening the rod further, but I really doubt that's it. The WG puck is intact and moves VERY freely. Checked that too. What about a bad MAP? I have a piggy-backed 3-bar MAP onto the original. I would think that'd set an SES light though and cause my T-link not to read. I'm definitely not getting any codes. If I were, I wouldn't be posting here. My thought is that since the 3-bar is piggy-backed, that possibly it could've gone kablooey and I'd never know. But would that affect my boost? A wire thereof possibly could cause an intermittent problem. I think I'm barking up the wrong tree and thinking too hard though. It's gotta be something stupid.

 

[1QUICK85]

Are you talking about the MAP or MAF sensor? (MAP is the one you would have to add as the '85 didn't have it stock) I never had a MAP, so no help there. I would think your car would run like crap and throw a code if either were giving you problems.
Its got to be something stupid!

 

[Hotair85]

I was talking about the Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor, yes. I still think I'm barking up the wrong tree. I replaced the wastegate actuator, as I mentioned previously. I thought it might be a tear in the diaphragm. I did notice I had to tweak the rod upward to get the actuator to bolt in correctly. This turbo was clocked down by the previous owner to fit his DP. Would the upward angle of the rod possibly have anything to do with it?

 

[1QUICK85]

Its definatly a possiblity...........if you don't mind pulling the turbo its definatly worth re-clocking it back to the stock position.
If you got a bad sensor it will throw a code and you would notice bad readings at idle.

 

[Hotair85]

Well, I'll do that as a last resort. I agree with the sensor hypothesis. I would have to say it would set a code. Maybe some of the other guys will chime in. Anyone who has a clearer head than I....

 

[Hotair85]

OK. New info. I think that turbo is all done. I stuck a screw stick through the throttle body and spun it up and afterward, it worked. It spooled up and came on strong. (I forgot how truly brutal the car is with some boost. ) I went to throw some gas in the car, idling down as I always do (~30 secs for a 5 minute trip). Then I pull out of the gas station and nothing. I brought the car back home running as it usually does with no balls and tried spinning the turbo with a screwdriver again to no avail. I checked and oil is getting to the bearing. I did notice that it was full of junk behind the TB. Blasted some carb clean through it and still nothing. Is the turbo as good as a paperweight? I'm beginning to think it is....

WG works fine, BTW.

 

[1QUICK85]

Sounds like you found the culprit to me! Good job....putting that stocker back on for now?

 

[Hotair85]

Yeah, I think so. I might try running some marvel mystery oil through it to see if I can free up that bearing a little, as I think the previous owner of the turbo didn't know how to idle a car down. Oil may have just coked up in there and I'm pretty sure that mystery oil will dissolve that. (I'm hell-bent on not taking that effin thing off!) That's tomorrow's project. Next if that don't work is going back to a maxed-out (but rebuilt when I bought the car) stocker. So the answer to your question would be yes, but only if I REALLY REALLY have to. I think I'm beating a dead horse with the mystery oil idea but oh well. It's worth a shot if I can avoid taking the turbo off. Such a shame, too. The car really is brutal when it works.